tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18122403530447131242024-02-18T22:30:18.439-08:00FASHIONAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.comBlogger500125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-19429733163880736342013-12-19T10:21:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.689-08:00A MODERN RUSSIAN FASHION FAIRYTALE: VILSHENKOPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Xv753DSA2_GSuzmV4dofuWgGxZup8qsgGlt3vSdVSFuwoU1CmlhhpWuZMNdRddVKjCNPOPQ-7Nl4JEVF5RHiVxoeL8WpwEtX8O_SIcSVxLKbci3yX0-EJysGhWVFiFveVebn76-rmWE/s1600/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+05+387_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Xv753DSA2_GSuzmV4dofuWgGxZup8qsgGlt3vSdVSFuwoU1CmlhhpWuZMNdRddVKjCNPOPQ-7Nl4JEVF5RHiVxoeL8WpwEtX8O_SIcSVxLKbci3yX0-EJysGhWVFiFveVebn76-rmWE/s640/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+05+387_04.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilshenko SS14</td></tr></tbody></table><div>A new fashion niche has developed over the past few seasons, possibly spearheaded by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paulo Piccioli's designs at Valentino. I like to call it fairytale fashion; dresses come either very short, or very long. There is intense detailing and bold colour, the likes of which you might expect to see in the modern-times wardrobe of <i>Game of Thrones</i>' Cersei Lannister. It's the new way to nod to the traditional and feel like a Princess (more the medieval kind than the Beatrice or Eugenie kind). One such brand which taps perfectly into this aesthetic is <a href="http://www.vilshenko.com/">Vilshenko</a> which I first discovered when I kept rushing past the room where the collection was on show during LFW. Each time I looked in en route to another appointment, I would catch sight of a model swathed in one dreamy but demure gown after another.<br /><br />Olga Vilshenko is the designer and businesswoman behind the brand which I remembered as a little oasis of calm amongst the fashion week rush. As the fashion world's focus remains firmly on the ever-growing Russian market, now seemed like the perfect time to find out more about the Vilshenko world which as you'll learn is this season centred around the idea of a modern-day Tsarina with the clothes always referencing Vilshenko's Russian heritage and costume collections….<br /><br /><br /></div>BH: Russia has become a big fashion focus point over the past couple of years, what do you love about the Russian fashion scene? <br /><br />OV: Russians are very welcoming to everything new. Here the volume of fashion consumption is quite high, and it is continuing to grow rapidly. People like to see new brands and new trends, meaning Russians have now arrived at the forefront of everyone’s minds for trend setting and have stepped away from the flashy style we saw a few years ago. The influencers who are trickling out of here at the minute make it a really exciting time to be a Russian designer. <br /><br />BH: What led you start your own brand?<br /><br />OV: A love for fashion runs in my blood. My mum used to make clothes for our family and I always wanted to get involved, I definitely have my mum to thank for inspiring me. I graduated from the Design Institute in Russia and then went on to study at London's branch of Instituto Marangoni. Naturally I decided to try and show people my vision of fashion.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULCYZkTbetjRQdKxD2KAuNQfn-m5VWkHSx4UjAD8BZcCkhmpifV470McuZAmgC0R-h4TI0yR9Vs4yYkHwfOdKOjmwdzPYh_NI1oYPHY-JcrZ5mgXar9NjVfaxargP6Wo9iCvnXCjMbgk/s1600/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+07+213_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULCYZkTbetjRQdKxD2KAuNQfn-m5VWkHSx4UjAD8BZcCkhmpifV470McuZAmgC0R-h4TI0yR9Vs4yYkHwfOdKOjmwdzPYh_NI1oYPHY-JcrZ5mgXar9NjVfaxargP6Wo9iCvnXCjMbgk/s640/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+07+213_03.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilshenko SS14</td></tr></tbody></table><div>BH: Tell us about your SS14 collection, what's the story? <br /><br />OV: In this collection you can see my vision of 21st century Tsarina. When imagining my heroine, I wanted to see her both feminine and elegant, refined but with a slight tomboyish sparkle. The collection sees a variety of styles - romantic silk floor-length gowns, flirty embroidered dresses, lots of polka dots which comes through in different fabrics and shapes. If I had to describe it in one word, I would say it's delicate. </div><div><br />BH: How are you moving the brand on each season? <br /><br />OV: The evolution is very natural, I begin with previous seasons - analyse what worked and what didn't and I that keep it in my mind when I'm coming up with the creative concept. It’s also important for me to add new types of fabric and embroideries each season. For SS14 we’ve made a few pieces decorated with silk balls sewn on netting, all of them are handmade so it’s very time consuming. I love the mélange embroidery I use on organza dresses; the multicolor thread makes the garments really opulent. </div><div><br />BH: What's been your most successful design to date? <br /><br />OV: Oh I love all of them! I love the Mira dress in grey field flower print from FW13/14, as its neckline and shape is so flattering. One of my all time favorites though, is the Florence dress in printed silk.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzTC7aGsDtWUqzgp_Vz7etjUKIXdbqnF6egGdVMKFtDA8Fzad4aTnoBE1AVIxUdx8r8h0b3lpaNGVXaWWl2BsHuvkgNlcBU5c5BrEx_ZEjn0Zy0JJHNMkfq8sTjn_2n7YGr0PnMhYHcI/s1600/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+01+117_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzTC7aGsDtWUqzgp_Vz7etjUKIXdbqnF6egGdVMKFtDA8Fzad4aTnoBE1AVIxUdx8r8h0b3lpaNGVXaWWl2BsHuvkgNlcBU5c5BrEx_ZEjn0Zy0JJHNMkfq8sTjn_2n7YGr0PnMhYHcI/s640/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+01+117_03.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilshenko SS14</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div>BH: How do you spend your time? Do you travel a lot? Where do you get inspired? <br /><br />OV: I often travel a lot for work so when I do have time to myself I love to spend it in the country house with my family. Gardening is one of my hobbies; it inspires me as it's very relaxing and gives me time to think. I also feel inspired from art, architecture, history, literature and music. I love the unknown of what may lead you onto the next collection.<br /><br />BH: Are you still working with Sarah Richardson, what impact does a great stylist have on refining the collection? <br /><br />OV: We've worked with Sarah for five seasons and it's hard to underestimate her contribution to the brand's growth, she is a fantastic inspiration. Stylists are often the eyes and ears of a designer, so of course they make quite an impact on the collection - it's team work and I have been really lucky to work with great stylists. We have been working with Cathy Kasterine since the SS14 look book and we have just done a shoot with Cathy and photographer Yelena Yenchuk so I’m really excited to see the results of our collaboration. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwPW-dJKtVpx1BayMKLbZ4Trnm3BhZZD2qoYWQtqJp-fXdhibJEhw422hgD0x2jt3N-gDon8BsmNIsRvZOw8tzgJuQTNvcBLjJt1ob3jPNW6FA4enD8H0HkJ65LLCvmmIp9vB9SxzIRI/s1600/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+04+337_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwPW-dJKtVpx1BayMKLbZ4Trnm3BhZZD2qoYWQtqJp-fXdhibJEhw422hgD0x2jt3N-gDon8BsmNIsRvZOw8tzgJuQTNvcBLjJt1ob3jPNW6FA4enD8H0HkJ65LLCvmmIp9vB9SxzIRI/s640/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+04+337_03.jpg" width="462" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilshenko SS14</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBFRyyfgyC3tGjlgQX9kj-D2Ewj4_zEiTBzR2v8ZMjWak0KTWJaxuIpGZGADpw4xDU0E4Igy9M7kn8tJzrZeBGcsW80VQyjeM1JSW__JYafqDpbCgze5KMCfNBoe2aWVpPNdLM0vvsvEo/s1600/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+08+062_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBFRyyfgyC3tGjlgQX9kj-D2Ewj4_zEiTBzR2v8ZMjWak0KTWJaxuIpGZGADpw4xDU0E4Igy9M7kn8tJzrZeBGcsW80VQyjeM1JSW__JYafqDpbCgze5KMCfNBoe2aWVpPNdLM0vvsvEo/s640/2013_10_04+YY+Vilshenko+08+062_03.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilshenko SS14</td></tr></tbody></table>BH: Lots of your designs references Russian folk costumes. Do you ever or have you ever worn these? Is tradition important to you? <br /><br />OV: It's not so easy to find and wear Russian folk costumes. I have a collection of Russian vintage pieces I’ve been accumulating from villages hundreds of kilometres away from Moscow over the years. I find it very important to know and remember traditions because we are nothing without our past. I like to infuse traditional elements in my collections. I also think it's crucial to keep a balance between traditional and contemporary; nobody wants to wear costumes unless it's a masquerade.<br /><br />The only time I wore a traditional costume was in nursery for a holiday when we were performing a traditional Russian dance. It was so much fun but a bit awkward because I was tripping over the long skirt all the time and my tiara was a bit too large so I couldn’t see anything either! </div><div><br />BH: If we were visiting Moscow, what would be your insider tip for things to do? <br /><br />OV: If you were visiting Moscow for the first time, I would recommend going to the Armor Museum on the Red Square – they keep unique treasures from Royal families, it’s truly stunning. Now that the Bolshoi Theatre is open again, it has become a Mecca for those who like the opera and ballet. To try Russian cuisine, go to Pushkin – they have most amazing and exotic Russian food and the interior is beautiful. Gorky Park is also very nice, during summer and in winter time when they set up a skating rink.<br /><br />Vilshenko is available to buy at <a href="http://www.avenue32.com/designers/vilshenko?gclid=CNHGiJXzvLsCFbE92wod52kAaw">Avenue 32</a> (in a rather brilliant sale right now) and at M'oda O'perandi<br /><br />All images courtesy of Vilshenko. Photographer, Yelena Yemchuk styled by Cathy Kasterine with model Zlata Mangafic<br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-64563558167068394832013-12-17T10:36:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.697-08:00BACK TO FRONT FASHIONPosted by Maya Peilow<br /><br />Note from Bethan: Maya has been interning with us for the past few months and has written for us today about the curious lack of 360 degree views in catwalk images….<br /><br /><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">When was the last time you saw the back of a model in a catwalk image or even magazine shoot? I would hazard a guess that the answer is, probably, never. Even though everyone attending fashion shows gets a good front and back view of each look, it's not until the item goes up on e-commerce sites that we ever get to see the back again. So the daring scoop of a jumpsuit or the bustle of an amazingly tailored jacket is often completely missed on a Style.com line-up or in trend reports. It's up to interested showgoers to tweet and Instagram the best back-views but even those quickly disappear down the news feed. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">In a feature for <a href="http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/12/spring-in-reverse.html"><i>The Cut’s</i> ‘Out of the Box’</a>, photographer and artist Erik Madigan Heck has revisited the Spring/Summer 2014 collections to make us reconsider them from behind. These photographs highlight the details and actual trends that are often missed, as viewers all-too-often focus on the front of a garment. The photographs are presented in two ways; firstly, in a chameleonic manner, whereby the prints are placed against a similar or an identical background and, secondly, against a plainer background, which emphasises the attention to detail on the back of the clothes.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2dsXhgSW9Ou8CnhTPqSpRRlX8Y-e9AAAVSKjfbTr6JcRoTs_Xf1FCFQNMis1qMupDhlyENSEpsyf8e9s3S-CvjpHK24n5LB0-87lm3mJcu8H7Fh_ZxTZo_L1yoOdJGAM57vVZAINnXUE/s1600/Chanel+(nymag.com).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2dsXhgSW9Ou8CnhTPqSpRRlX8Y-e9AAAVSKjfbTr6JcRoTs_Xf1FCFQNMis1qMupDhlyENSEpsyf8e9s3S-CvjpHK24n5LB0-87lm3mJcu8H7Fh_ZxTZo_L1yoOdJGAM57vVZAINnXUE/s640/Chanel+(nymag.com).jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chanel paint palette dress, from behind by Erik Madigan Heck (via nymag.com/thecut)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTm2ew_HeB-Xb7bQR0lwRrR6HkNpL0uEPiZ1Y_1ZSdxQXZG1aakSZSCRGPiKIJ3ojb5c4FiB1qYibNvO-rOqcra-4nHs8BKO2yUosqO9qiRyQRJUcclhl8o_ABHtcQ5hdPDyDBmmxjvg/s1600/Alberta+Ferretti+SS14+look+47.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTm2ew_HeB-Xb7bQR0lwRrR6HkNpL0uEPiZ1Y_1ZSdxQXZG1aakSZSCRGPiKIJ3ojb5c4FiB1qYibNvO-rOqcra-4nHs8BKO2yUosqO9qiRyQRJUcclhl8o_ABHtcQ5hdPDyDBmmxjvg/s640/Alberta+Ferretti+SS14+look+47.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alberta Ferretti SS14 (via vogue.com)</td></tr></tbody></table>So, what have we been missing out on from a back perspective in the SS14 shows? Raf Simons' slightly eerie collection comprised jewellery which reminded us of moss creeping down the models' backs. And in one of the best examples of front/back diversity, the Dior designer sent out a perfectly respectable shirt dress which turned into a shoulder-blade revealing, sequinned racer back once the back came into sight. One of my favourite examples is Alberta Ferretti's embroidered sundress which turns to become beautifully backless with clustered bunches of flowers.<br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZAHYzJgadI-2YebWYDcrgmpZAA-7_n5rHuRerhLo2GvbwGhHLBf6boCsyj2qpTDWOUkuJ0jHlnBU8vKmrOYya6hV_FvEgDAYa7TMEFNt2muzf3rakFfr8hDRn3oUAif2v3ypzQza2EhU/s1600/Dior+SS14+Look+11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZAHYzJgadI-2YebWYDcrgmpZAA-7_n5rHuRerhLo2GvbwGhHLBf6boCsyj2qpTDWOUkuJ0jHlnBU8vKmrOYya6hV_FvEgDAYa7TMEFNt2muzf3rakFfr8hDRn3oUAif2v3ypzQza2EhU/s640/Dior+SS14+Look+11.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dior SS14 (via style.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fV3TkE8ULNyIG9yIrjOsgqhttCGgHNriKtHVgQaAtZcyQ5XW2_K420t-LJzTzjh5n5fpVVRgKAjsK24HuQL-plUbF-f9AboMWXy1WB3gYNrZfE2esEEBxjA3EJEmpxxHj2XMVqWgM8o/s1600/Dior+SS14+Look+18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fV3TkE8ULNyIG9yIrjOsgqhttCGgHNriKtHVgQaAtZcyQ5XW2_K420t-LJzTzjh5n5fpVVRgKAjsK24HuQL-plUbF-f9AboMWXy1WB3gYNrZfE2esEEBxjA3EJEmpxxHj2XMVqWgM8o/s640/Dior+SS14+Look+18.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dior SS14 (via style.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">There's one major designer who is paying serious attention to the back/ front issue. In his work for both his own label and for Balenciaga, Alexander Wang is employing clever tactics to make sure we notice every angle of his designs. I wouldn't be surprised actually if he had someone solely in charge of mirrors. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9G9aomhHL6zlYheEHOETy0TCdq72uLLEZUz7XNDGUqebhzrgyK4jDmW3F2RClAKOuoh-cRo3VPuJzchkuPedG0gwh8cyZHycrWUKa93ZfX2YTlQU4QnMmWKcyrkXHv7tB1_ce8FV6dg0/s1600/Balenciaga+Resort+14+look+22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9G9aomhHL6zlYheEHOETy0TCdq72uLLEZUz7XNDGUqebhzrgyK4jDmW3F2RClAKOuoh-cRo3VPuJzchkuPedG0gwh8cyZHycrWUKa93ZfX2YTlQU4QnMmWKcyrkXHv7tB1_ce8FV6dg0/s640/Balenciaga+Resort+14+look+22.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balenciaga Resort '14 (via style.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivvIezPLiO6Prlwpk0kIlm75sMhHXc5jp6mKWgXJFZS_EZNjfQRJ6OduMXg6jHfc4YgQK-ywu5dDwMa6G6yGviSfN8j6EYu0icmNwDLrkLZGmbpXmegPapLbjaOV3aZbpUXowuFEVLmn0/s1600/balenciaga+ss14.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivvIezPLiO6Prlwpk0kIlm75sMhHXc5jp6mKWgXJFZS_EZNjfQRJ6OduMXg6jHfc4YgQK-ywu5dDwMa6G6yGviSfN8j6EYu0icmNwDLrkLZGmbpXmegPapLbjaOV3aZbpUXowuFEVLmn0/s640/balenciaga+ss14.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balenciaga SS'14 (via style.com)</td></tr></tbody></table>On the catwalk, he positions mirrors so that the images which are beamed around the internet demonstrate a reflection of the back of the look. With the Resort (and pre we expect), he can be even more tactical, photoshopping in details as if on mirrors which can easily be missed in the full-length shot to give a much more impactful message for each item. The shoe, the arm detail and the cut-out all get their moment. In his own label Pre-Fall, Wang has eschewed mirrors but still makes sure we get different focuses by getting models to pose at different angles. It's a simple tactic but completely changes the way we view the collection.<br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvrRUO8gHJx6milIO_zKX7cpbu4TsDSR1ELezl0w2pVxAvx5UcK7jGVfpGmKfTWvXLYIhz-AAOZbN6edWPcNycHyFVxelZOIo10mBb2Q7HzARrxA95K-L-fen28wY8KyCQSAffKHj2S_o/s1600/Wang_008_1366.450x675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvrRUO8gHJx6milIO_zKX7cpbu4TsDSR1ELezl0w2pVxAvx5UcK7jGVfpGmKfTWvXLYIhz-AAOZbN6edWPcNycHyFVxelZOIo10mBb2Q7HzARrxA95K-L-fen28wY8KyCQSAffKHj2S_o/s640/Wang_008_1366.450x675.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexander Wang Pre-Fall (via style.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-57460283563023274042013-12-13T09:50:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.705-08:00BEYONCE, NEW BRIT FASHION TALENT AND THE REST OF THE WEEK IN FASHIONPosted by Bethan Holt and Maya Peilow<br /><br />A flurry of last minute 2013 fashion and music happenings this week. No time for sitting back with a mince pie just yet...<br /><br /><b>NEWGEN and Fashion East winners announced</b><br /><b><br /></b>It's been a great week for Ryan Lo, Claire Barrow and Danielle Romeril who won NEWGEN sponsorship and along with it the chance to showcase to the world the incredible fashion talent which won over the hard-to-please NEWGEN panel- including our very own Melanie Rickey. Helen Lawrence and Louise Alsop also step onto the next rung of the fashion ladder winning <a href="http://www.style.com/stylefile/2013/12/fashion-east-taps-two-new-talents/">support from Lulu Kennedy's fabulous Fashion East</a>. That's some major fresh new talent to look forward to at LFW in February.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucOGF1kNj0Unynt9tFKsK50rdHCasrL_gS-oDIXZimyfgOhyphenhyphenBirWTZq8l10XahtwzETNkkdPSL1FwZXDyAKGTnqD3gZAqL427ztzxGh969jNfcCNP9l40YxBD0bz6UngZwmiKzvqpAgI/s1600/Danielle-Romeril-Autumn-Winter-2013-lookbook-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucOGF1kNj0Unynt9tFKsK50rdHCasrL_gS-oDIXZimyfgOhyphenhyphenBirWTZq8l10XahtwzETNkkdPSL1FwZXDyAKGTnqD3gZAqL427ztzxGh969jNfcCNP9l40YxBD0bz6UngZwmiKzvqpAgI/s1600/Danielle-Romeril-Autumn-Winter-2013-lookbook-3.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danielle Romeril (via thebestfashionblog.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTjakNHrFSmyI-6qiDQOlSuSa1Zz5D7G6qKrkmBvw02q45SmSTFVp_Oxx_9EmgJx-FCD2akP-jdu1Jk9NjKKFqGgQPuP6utcx8tdKLIBzWhofVnXNBRwYlAFGEy02ZezHTuHXPRqDMbQ/s1600/helen-lawrence-autumn-fall-winter-2012-lfw6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTjakNHrFSmyI-6qiDQOlSuSa1Zz5D7G6qKrkmBvw02q45SmSTFVp_Oxx_9EmgJx-FCD2akP-jdu1Jk9NjKKFqGgQPuP6utcx8tdKLIBzWhofVnXNBRwYlAFGEy02ZezHTuHXPRqDMbQ/s1600/helen-lawrence-autumn-fall-winter-2012-lfw6.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helen Lawrence (via locallightpolluton.blogspot.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinD2IXKfMnBcJBQKu76e6YBfjnhxoiCxqJuvUodDm2WYbrJw00gJEJlZtst7_QiRNfNxxoR_fEaB4nubsBB05cXKbwcY_cLBr_LAtU1fQzuQegNsJUl_73Q9__RA6JtoRqiY_R7nIgNB0/s1600/Westminster_Fashion_2013_095+louise+alsop-002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinD2IXKfMnBcJBQKu76e6YBfjnhxoiCxqJuvUodDm2WYbrJw00gJEJlZtst7_QiRNfNxxoR_fEaB4nubsBB05cXKbwcY_cLBr_LAtU1fQzuQegNsJUl_73Q9__RA6JtoRqiY_R7nIgNB0/s1600/Westminster_Fashion_2013_095+louise+alsop-002.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Louise Alsop (via catwalkqueen.tv)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a href="http://www.neverunderdressed.com/people/news/beyonces-got-a-new-album-the-best-looks-from-the-videos"><b>Beyonce Day</b></a><br /><br />This Friday 13th has (basically officially) been declared <a href="http://www.beyonce.com/">Beyonce</a> Day. The fabulous Bey blindsided the world by releasing an entire album complete with a full set of videos unannounced and with zero promo in the middle of the night. That woman. While we're taking it all in and planning all the occasions this weekend when it's going to be appropriate to play the eponymous album, here's your essential checklist of all the items required to recreate the album in looks:<br /><br />Denim hot pants (obvs), a silky scarf dress (one for wafting and floating about in which you make look like wings), a pinstripe tuxedo suit, very dark purple lipstick/ nail varnish, a pants plus long sleeve crop top co-ord, stacks of rings, a baker boy cap and a hand chain. Got that?<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw3KlZ_bwuR-d5xj1x8lU6L_O2mSLFqapoFB_00qzmiCtKiTXstWLfX_uQQxg7cxnTNspOi8XhrLxTR14JLxbhjG0Zi33hioqySW8mBvyshy6QH1TqX8tIlP_-U5J7cb1NNlZeNKc838A/s1600/Bey-cover-press.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw3KlZ_bwuR-d5xj1x8lU6L_O2mSLFqapoFB_00qzmiCtKiTXstWLfX_uQQxg7cxnTNspOi8XhrLxTR14JLxbhjG0Zi33hioqySW8mBvyshy6QH1TqX8tIlP_-U5J7cb1NNlZeNKc838A/s1600/Bey-cover-press.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.contactmusic.com/story/david-koma-appointed-creative-director-at-thierry-mugler_3997074">Congratulations lovely David Koma</a></b><br /><br />Speaking of NEWGEN, it's been a big day for former recipient David Koma who's hot the fashion big time and been appointed Creative Director at Thierry Mugler. Koma's fierce and super sexy design ethos will be the perfect fit for Mugler. Koma steps in to replace Nicola Formichetti whose good friend Lady Gaga famously modelled for the brand during his tenure.<br /><br /><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/12/11/john-galliano-costumes-stephen-fry-the-importance-of-being-earnest">Galliano has a newjob</a><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br /></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">John Galliano has landed the ultimate luxe drag costume designer gig. It has been confirmed that Galliano will design the costumes for Stephen Fry’s stage adaptation of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Importance of Being Earnest</i>, due to open next year<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">.</i> Galliano pipped Roland Mouret and Sarah Burton who were also rumoured to have been in the running for the job. In addition to directing the production, Fry will play Lady Bracknell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Galliano joins a line of high fashion designers working on stage costumes; Chanel designed the costumes for Diaghilev’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Le Train Bleu</i> in 1924 and, in 2011, Stefano Pilati, former head designer at Yves Saint Laurent, created the costumes for Harold Pinter’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Betrayal</i>. However, Galliano is well experienced in this field, having dressed Judi Dench in the Lady Bracknell role back in 1982. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0q-cM5eAD7O0Tor5rzk4jRW0PVaNkV5rZ7oLa9PLHJrWQJSAlWApWnDTLnjNB-ioc7jS0qkSahH2bM7BGInvzUaF1E3rF_PduJAKNsV9UFWAHIBge4ZzWxiEVdhfqHhoqGTeXqvmw3Ic/s1600/zoe+w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0q-cM5eAD7O0Tor5rzk4jRW0PVaNkV5rZ7oLa9PLHJrWQJSAlWApWnDTLnjNB-ioc7jS0qkSahH2bM7BGInvzUaF1E3rF_PduJAKNsV9UFWAHIBge4ZzWxiEVdhfqHhoqGTeXqvmw3Ic/s1600/zoe+w.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Judi Dench in Galliano as Lady Bracknell in 1982 (via zoewanamaker.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.spottedfashion.com/2013/12/10/chanel-to-open-courchevel-ephemeral-boutique-on-december-14/">Après-ski fashionjust got a lot more interesting</a><o:p></o:p></b><br /><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">One of the top skiing destinations, Courchevel, is about to welcome some new guests. Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada boutiques will be taking to the Alpine slopes this winter. Prada’s chalet-like boutique is seated at the bottom of the slopes in Place du Rocher. It was designed by a Prada-loyal architect, Roberto Baciocchi, who has worked with the brand on their other stores. Louis Vuitton will also launch a pop-up at the resort, close to its permanent boutique. The pop-up will showcase a selection of products, including the new <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Capucines </i>bag, as well as furs and jewellery. You can never have too much Louis Vuitton in one place! Chanel has gone one step further to make sure its arrival at the exclusive ski resort stands out. Karl Lagerfeld has adorned 36 out of 72 cable cars with Chanel sketches. Le ski, c'est chic!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/12/10/mango-plus-size_n_4418599.html?utm_hp_ref=style&ir=Style">Mango launches plussize range</a><o:p></o:p></b><br /><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">This week, Mango announced that it would be launching a plus size range, Violeta, in the New Year. The range, set to hit European stores in mid-January, will come in sizes 12 to 24. The Spanish retailer is reported to have recruited a team of experts to address the technical details. The 400-piece collection, modelled by Australian plus-sized model, Robyn Lawley, is intended to be “comfortable, feminine and modern” and will be expanded gradually, with new products added on a monthly basis. The collection will be available online in the UK from 15 January. Our only question is- who decided that a size 12 is plus-sized?<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.teesbymissyx.com/#/hello">The 12 year old taking the fashion world by storm</a><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">When people speak of new and exciting young designers, you expect them to at least be a teenager. But Melissa Jade Aiello, better known as Missy, is only 12 and she’s already making a name for herself in the fashion industry. Having discovered her ability to draw, she set up a t-shirt label at the age of 9 with the aid of her mother, a model booker. She has drawn fashion icons, such as Karl Lagerfeld, Anna Wintour and Donatella Versace, who she described as having “a really interesting face.” Her t-shirts are only available upon request, although she already has plans for expanding her business – she’s added a line of tote bags and is in talks to bring the label to a wider audience. In her own words, “fashion is really important to me because it defines who I am.”</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://perezhilton.com/perezitos/2013-12-13-drew-barrymore-second-child-nickname-grandfather-cute#sthash.RBY8sCUl.dpbs">Baby Chane</a>l<o:p></o:p></b><br /><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br /></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">This week, Hollywood actress Drew Barrymore confirmed that she is expecting a second baby girl with her husband Will Kopelman. The best bit though- and what sets the news part from your standard snippet of celebrity gossip- is the little one's nickname. The unborn child’s grandfather, Barrymore’s father-in-law, Arie Kopelman used to be chairman of Chanel and so has declared that his fifth grandchild will be nicknamed Chanel no.5. We wonder how long he's been thinking about that?<o:p></o:p></div><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> <w:UseFELayout/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> 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mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-ansi-language:EN-US;} </style><![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> <!--EndFragment--><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-9153743918180543842013-12-12T06:42:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.719-08:00IS THIS A TURNING POINT FOR FASHION WEEKS?Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />When Suzy Menkes published her <a href="http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/02/10/the-circus-of-fashion/?_r=0">Circus of Fashion article</a> in February, it understandably sparked extensive debate across the fashion spectrum. Bloggers, journalists, fashion fans, designers and industry insiders all had something to say in response to Menkes' complaint that the previously low-key rounds of international fashion weeks had been overtaken by hoards of "peacocks". Many agreed that the enormous (and oft overdressed) crowds were indeed getting out of hand, and what part were they really playing anyway? Others argued that bloggers- the group who took most of the flak as Menkes labelled them "legions of imitators"- help to democratise an industry which previously relied upon a tiny coterie of influencers to set its agenda. Everyone had their say but it wasn't quite clear whether any kind of consensus had been reached or if any of the people with real power, like fashion week organisers and the designers who host catwalk shows, were going to do anything about it. In fact, were we beyond the point of no return?<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqn1F5WrdGxKpZe_yF5WEIqN9BYRgsQNaloG2C1owKxZDqapzbEonC6g3GGlinKEMIPeza-pfD-w5EOpHR6Z5VcGas6uHoeKU0xxwoQosGLvPpl6Peh0Vw4CruQ3ozBvDs4RY8iZKM7GA/s1600/anna-dello-russo-photographer-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqn1F5WrdGxKpZe_yF5WEIqN9BYRgsQNaloG2C1owKxZDqapzbEonC6g3GGlinKEMIPeza-pfD-w5EOpHR6Z5VcGas6uHoeKU0xxwoQosGLvPpl6Peh0Vw4CruQ3ozBvDs4RY8iZKM7GA/s640/anna-dello-russo-photographer-back.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna dello Russo surrounded by photographers outside a show (via stylesnooperdan.com)</td></tr></tbody></table>As it approaches a year since Menkes wrote Circus of Fashion, it seems that some decisive action might begin to show a new direction for fashion weeks. New York has announced what can only be described as a crackdown on the breadth of attendees at its fashion week which kicks off proceedings each season. Using rather undiplomatically direct language, Catherine Bennett from organisers IMG <a href="http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/columns/bibby-sowray/TMG10500132/New-York-Fashion-Week-toughens-ticketing-policy.html">said that NYFW</a> "had become a zoo" and it was time to change the format so that invites were "once again an exclusive pass for true fashion insiders." Such comments might seem pretty galling for the not insignificant numbers of bloggers who work directly with designers on projects like sponsored posts, social media campaigns and in-store events. Even if they don't work directly with designer brands, when an influential blogger wears or promotes a designer in some way it can have just as much impact as a stylist including the piece in a shoot for a big magazine. You might say that the big magazine has more kudos than the blogger but the best bloggers can now inspire just as much trust from their audience as established publications.<br /><br />In London, the British Fashion Council has also <a href="http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/news_detail.aspx?id=574">established a blogger strategy</a>, gathering a panel of bloggers in order to better understand this ever growing sphere; they report that applications for blogger passes have increased by 25% each season since February 2011 meaning that there will be around 3,000 requests for access to LFW by bloggers by the time the September 2014 shows come around. London's approach is much more gentle than NY's, at least from a PR perspective. There have been no accusations thrown or sweeping statements made, the BFC is just quietly making a concerted effort to refine and properly vet the bloggers gaining access. They are sorting the truly impactful and effective sites from those which have been set up in five minutes and rarely posted on then used to get a pass into the swirl of events and shows which always makes fashion week seem so exciting.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVxtdyaWsEoGOiTAKm5NOA2xFZCchm3ELZLaiStE85EuX93jtLndc37191zfjwqpDUTzCOx8rVitc0f2QRSp6-tzCSzhvMjjxdxN7najoI-p4iOYgj74B6udSlFF31chLdTmOSUDP_Fc/s1600/070312-louis-vuitton-rbQh0u-steamtrain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVxtdyaWsEoGOiTAKm5NOA2xFZCchm3ELZLaiStE85EuX93jtLndc37191zfjwqpDUTzCOx8rVitc0f2QRSp6-tzCSzhvMjjxdxN7najoI-p4iOYgj74B6udSlFF31chLdTmOSUDP_Fc/s640/070312-louis-vuitton-rbQh0u-steamtrain.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marc Jacobs' AW12 Louis Vuitton show in which an enormous steam train formed the centrepiece (via harpersbazaar.co.uk)</td></tr></tbody></table>There are small signs though that this is an issue which designers themselves are beginning to question. In <a href="http://stylecaster.com/marc-jacobs-vuitton/">an interview with Marie Claire last week</a>, Marc Jacobs admitted that "things need to change" at Louis Vuitton. It's an ambiguous quote and probably just refers to the fact that, after 16 years at at the helm, he has left and been replaced by Nicolas Ghesquiere whose tenure is bound to usher in a complete refresh for LV. But if the change to which Jacobs refers has anything to do with the Vuitton show then the impact would be massive for Paris Fashion Week. The seven-day event ordinarily culminates in the extraordinary mega spectacle of the Vuitton show, finally setting the overarching theme for the season which has been playing out for the previous four weeks. If Ghesquiere's approach deviates from this model, then the fashion season will feel recalibrated at the very least.<br /><br />Band of Outsiders might not be anywhere near as big a brand as Vuitton, but comments by designer Scott Strenberg this week could be indicative of a wider feeling of frustration among the smaller brands. In an <a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/12/10/scott-sternberg-fashion-industry-attack-band-of-outsiders">interview with Apartmento magazine picked up by Vogue</a>, he spoke abut his admiration for Tom Ford's decision to step away from catwalk shows because "he doesn't have to do all this crap, waste all this fabric, make all these clothes that nobody is ever going to buy that's essentially for a few stylists to shoot and is part of the 'dog and pony show'." Ford might have triggered this feeling that there's another way for younger brands but he's now decided to return to the traditional show concept.<br /><br />Ultimately, the future of fashion weeks will be decided when brands and organisers decide on their real function. There is so much which can now be done digitally- many cite Cathy Horyn's Saint Laurent review conducted solely from seeing the pictures online. I doubt there's much future in that as a common practice, not until they invent touch-and-feel-ability via the web anyway. This week, Chanel hosted their annual métiers d'art show in Dallas and received 24 hours of social media hype and coverage, as opposed to the 2-3 hours which shows get during fashion week before everyone moves on to the next. Whatever the future of fashion weeks, it will take a few more major shuffles akin to the one announced by New York last week for a new vision to start taking shape.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-10595289596176008852013-12-10T10:41:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.727-08:00HOUSE OF HACKNEY X ASOS: GRUNGE JUST GOT REFRESHEDPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />By this point in the fashion season, trends can start to feel a little tired. Everything which seemed so cosy, fresh and inviting back in September feels "done" by now but let's not kid ourselves that any of the SS14 stock which will land in the coming weeks is really going to be wearable for a while yet- unless we get a freak February heatwave. Nope, what is really required at this time of year is a new wave of inspiration to get us through the last dregs of Winter.<br /><br />ASOS and House of Hackney have come to the rescue with a <a href="http://www.asos.com/search/house-of-hackney?hrd=1&q=house+of+hackney&SearchSuggestUsed=true">gorgeous new collab</a> which suddenly makes grunge- one of the biggest Autumn catwalk moods to transfer across the retail spectrum- feel exciting again. All tartan-ed out? House of Hackney's giant tasseled scarf might make you think again. Or perhaps it's the new take on dungarees- cropped, printed and in velvet- which will pep up your fashion outlook for the dark, cold months ahead. I also love the silky checked slip dress which will do just as well for NYE as for Glasto.<br /><br />Frieda Gormley, the House of Hackney founder whom I had <a href="http://fashioneditoratlarge.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/hooray-for-house-of-hackney.html">the pleasure of interviewing last year</a>, says that it's the girls of Dalston they're surrounded by every day who really inspired them, so much so in fact that they've called the collection "Dalston Tart". Cheeky. If you're a Dalston tart yourself, or perhaps find yourself over that way one day then be sure to pop into the House of Hackney shop on Shoreditch High Street where the brand's maximal, witty, Victorian dandy vision comes to life beautifully.<br /><br />Happy AW13, take 2.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpeYZBBPd9WTy-e0F0ldvP4mtc72BCu56AeQFJDWCQmJmJ54eakcPnEUyRZerqMrqE89PYHfbdW7gYmH2eIfikDXEFA3B1AqJTqGlgQg_Q0HKlUSFVHCIvXToTvRpTGKMVf3aTqIW3zBg/s1600/product_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpeYZBBPd9WTy-e0F0ldvP4mtc72BCu56AeQFJDWCQmJmJ54eakcPnEUyRZerqMrqE89PYHfbdW7gYmH2eIfikDXEFA3B1AqJTqGlgQg_Q0HKlUSFVHCIvXToTvRpTGKMVf3aTqIW3zBg/s640/product_01.jpg" width="430" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu8Vz5QPg0RZ-4YAZHFIxE5mcRz7yuV1pvgF_eix-1xWhCv_E3CEqNgnC298pfThoLk4aig0jHqXdLQt816BWhayJqPgMX2s2kp23_ff0SfOVRK32wSGYmehIXGTr5driKZ3YV_5VsgSE/s1600/product_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu8Vz5QPg0RZ-4YAZHFIxE5mcRz7yuV1pvgF_eix-1xWhCv_E3CEqNgnC298pfThoLk4aig0jHqXdLQt816BWhayJqPgMX2s2kp23_ff0SfOVRK32wSGYmehIXGTr5driKZ3YV_5VsgSE/s640/product_05.jpg" width="430" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8OpipxnY5mf7bvLbLPrkd6aCT8ysGQAR41aBq7wwsgUe73IWY4rRRxWM0ZW1ixcLNNaGwZl8_h5jDBisS8wkmorEMLbbVkLdpdiuUnDjdwJLHQZQCkAdPGMyIwpwxhe7h9h3otOQ3vo/s1600/product_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8OpipxnY5mf7bvLbLPrkd6aCT8ysGQAR41aBq7wwsgUe73IWY4rRRxWM0ZW1ixcLNNaGwZl8_h5jDBisS8wkmorEMLbbVkLdpdiuUnDjdwJLHQZQCkAdPGMyIwpwxhe7h9h3otOQ3vo/s640/product_06.jpg" width="430" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg7zz5GDpKF0FUuzxJxkIk50YIUqigqi-ICYTEXOS_RD0a_SQLuqcNuFMttHN3cTbRilbLZnndpOTrYoIyl9whYMB8QGwtEIjtzoFf6KllpobDKD0YZaW4x5-YXYWV9imcfvQxfJ0A5Sw/s1600/product_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg7zz5GDpKF0FUuzxJxkIk50YIUqigqi-ICYTEXOS_RD0a_SQLuqcNuFMttHN3cTbRilbLZnndpOTrYoIyl9whYMB8QGwtEIjtzoFf6KllpobDKD0YZaW4x5-YXYWV9imcfvQxfJ0A5Sw/s640/product_07.jpg" width="430" /></a></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-90253230071137282982013-12-06T10:21:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.735-08:00GOODBYE MANDELA AND A MEGA FASHION NEWS CATCH-UPPosted by Bethan Holt and Maya Peilow<br /><br /><div>It's been too long since we did any fashion news so here is a round-up of the stories which we've enjoyed/ found interesting over the past few weeks. But, first things first…<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNFzbz4zeQ0e4imoVGmmQBZQJ1ZfVKM4_0IbbC3HUOa9jUZYV7SY94TkzRKWTOapmQuZQwg8WOcn3GlJuH6OX2NpfMyTLpMKqScRnIhNTJbvPN_Gokt-SJRV5jqvbiZp6rfulasB6Lhg/s1600/mandela.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNFzbz4zeQ0e4imoVGmmQBZQJ1ZfVKM4_0IbbC3HUOa9jUZYV7SY94TkzRKWTOapmQuZQwg8WOcn3GlJuH6OX2NpfMyTLpMKqScRnIhNTJbvPN_Gokt-SJRV5jqvbiZp6rfulasB6Lhg/s640/mandela.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">via world.time.com</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><a href="http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/bridget-foleys-diary-dont-ask-7283525?src=search_links">Bridget Foley makes a stand again brand control</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Fashion journalism stalwarts have reignited the debate surrounding the oft delicate balance between PRs and the press. In her WWD diary, Bridget Foley recounted a few recent occasions when she felt her team's coverage of certain events had been hampered by overbearing PRs who restricted access to interviewees or unnecessarily embargoed information. Then, on Monday evening Suzy Menkes used her acceptance speech at the British Fashion Awards (where she was given a Special Recognition Award) to recall the principles upon which she built her career and reputation; never accepting freebies and not getting too close to designers.<br /><br /><a href="http://showstudio.com/project/isabella_blow_fashion_galore/interview_philip_treacy">Celebrating Isabella Blow</a><br /><br />SHOWstudio are complementing the opening of the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! exhibition at Somerset Hosue with a series of films, essays and <a href="http://showstudio.tumblr.com/tagged/isabellablowproject">a brilliant tumblr</a>. You simply cannot watch Phillip Treacy's interview without being incredibly touched and learning what a unique impact Blow had on fashion.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNLDx9sR-yvSf6WR4SSFRiUKGTJR4ASkWTflCPiYy-nMx4ETHkQGjgVM3OgEJgU0qvLC6LnubUblrxOWpeII4nLHYOCZappb5M156ZL9nsxpKZx88UVAx5PcmadytbNgs9kobInDVWavg/s1600/blow+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNLDx9sR-yvSf6WR4SSFRiUKGTJR4ASkWTflCPiYy-nMx4ETHkQGjgVM3OgEJgU0qvLC6LnubUblrxOWpeII4nLHYOCZappb5M156ZL9nsxpKZx88UVAx5PcmadytbNgs9kobInDVWavg/s640/blow+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNCa7a1IkEEedFETBfDucMdUvHOfAVefxjxVOAB7ph-M7TNY0GhIYdR_0QKgRK4z1A1LiE6ky5pntqOQRFv0oRynIGsPp3qih65YRdacsbOx5nO7r6fYd7rAbXBLeCLHAEiydN58CzyA/s1600/blow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNCa7a1IkEEedFETBfDucMdUvHOfAVefxjxVOAB7ph-M7TNY0GhIYdR_0QKgRK4z1A1LiE6ky5pntqOQRFv0oRynIGsPp3qih65YRdacsbOx5nO7r6fYd7rAbXBLeCLHAEiydN58CzyA/s640/blow.jpg" width="562" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A note Isabella wrote at Tatler and at the Stroud farmer's market (via Showstudio on Tumblr)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/21/fashion/Looking-for-Asias-Fashion-Breakthrough.html?pagewanted=5&_r=0&adxnnl=1&ref=international&adxnnlx=1386158514-lFVAT4mfJvxTyiYW4rcS2Q">Asian fashion in Asia</a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Suzy Menkes' deep dive into the Asian fashion landscape is a fascinating read. She examines how numerous Chinese designers have made it big, but usually by basing themselves in the US and training at US colleges. Menkes speaks with Vogue China editor Angelica Cheung about the burgeoning possibilities for Chinese fashion as well as to designers including Huishan Zhang and Anna Sui. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/02/business/media/long-on-cutting-edge-of-print-new-york-magazine-cuts-back.html"><i>The Cut</i> moves to print </a><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">With growing concerns over the ‘death of print’, it may seem surprising to see a website move to print. <i>The Cut</i> is an exception to this rule. Following the <i>New York Magazine’s</i> announcement that it would be cutting back to a biweekly in an effort to reduce costs, the magazine will have more content, less frequently. The magazine will contain a six-page section by <i>The Cut</i>, dedicated to delivering regular fashion content in a format consistent with <i>New York</i>. Why the change? According to <i>New York’s </i>fashion director Amy Larocca, “we’ve done well with fashion, and people want more.”</div><br /></div><a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10478889/Burberrys-trademark-check-under-threat-in-China.html">Burberry trademark in doubt </a><br /><div><br /></div><div>Burberry, renowned for its classic check print, may have lost the exclusive rights to using the ‘Haymarket Check’ design. In a legal dispute, dating back to August 2010, Burberry and Polo Santa Roberta (PSR) have disagreed over the exclusive use of the print. The Chinese authorities have withdrawn the trademark protection of the print long-associated with the British brand, following PSR’s claims that Burberry was monopolising part of Scotland’s cultural heritage. However, the association of the check design with the brand runs much deeper. The official Scottish Register of Tartans refers to the Haymarket check as “Burberry.” An appeal as been lodged and Burberry maintain that the trademark remains exclusive property of Burberry and they are confident about the appeal. In addition, according to Chinese law, if an appeal is lodged in time, Burberry will retain the rights until the outcome of appeal has been decided. 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mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-ansi-language:EN-US;} </style><![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> <br /><div class="MsoNormal"><b><a href="http://news.sky.com/story/1174516/louis-vuitton-moscow-trunk-stunt-backfires">Louis Vuitton hits the headlines </a><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Forget about Kanye’s request for fans to boycott, Vuitton quite literally had bigger problems on their hands. The iconic French brand was ordered to remove the giant trunk pavilion, covered with Vuitton’s signature logos, from Moscow’s Red Square, just 10 days after being installed. The trunk was planned to open an exhibition about travellers using the brand’s iconic luggage, on 2 December with proceeds going to Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova’s charity. However, the publicity stunt, on a UNESCO World Heritage Site, had not been well received by the locals, tourists and especially the Government. There were doubts as to whether Vuitton were ever granted permission to erect the pavilion, considering that the land is under the Kremlin’s jurisdiction. While a brand spokesman insisted that they had not received any official requests to remove the trunk, its removal commenced on 27 November. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/nov/29/justin-welby-fashion-crucifix-archbishop-canterbury">The Archbishop of Canterbury has a few words on fashion</a></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">The Archbishop of Canterbury, The Most Reverend Justin Welby, argues that the fashion industry has trivialised the Holy Cross. He argued that the symbol for Christianity, which used to be “a badge of shame” in the early stages of the religion, has become “a symbol of beauty to hang around your neck.” The Archbishop made the comments in the foreword to his new book <i>Looking Through the Cross</i>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.style.com/stylefile/2013/10/colette-alchemists-art-basel-time-warp/">Colette goes stateside</a> <o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br /></b></div><div class="MsoNormal">Have you ever dreamed of a fashion drive-through? Parisian retailer Colette has teamed up with Miami’s concept store, Alchemist, for an “Art Drive-Thru” at 1111 Lincoln Road for Art Basel Miami Beach. Instead of ordering a burger and fries, expect to drive up, order your exclusive fashion fix from the ‘menu’ and wait for a girl on roller-skates to deliver the item to the car. Expect to see items such as Kenzo x Toilet Paper iPhone cases and a Luis Morais ‘Survival Kit’, including a signature bracelet, condoms, lighters and breath mints. What’s not to love? FOR ONE WEEK ONLY (2-8 December).</div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Calibri;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-43554088330551544472013-12-04T09:11:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.744-08:00BEGGINGS? TROOTS? TAMARA MELLON'S NEW ITEM INVENTIONPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheeswsFOWS0jN40j3S6go2PhVejo3M9_bCVrtMTp_r_1kg7l_PDEsRunffstqZ0DobzGG_gGm6U5RPEULvZOQF6xEADdqcMiNDeNBF5dvXBitRBeTBuGXYhUrwFMrh3UsKRiBNfjw5jTo/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-12-04+at+12.20.14.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheeswsFOWS0jN40j3S6go2PhVejo3M9_bCVrtMTp_r_1kg7l_PDEsRunffstqZ0DobzGG_gGm6U5RPEULvZOQF6xEADdqcMiNDeNBF5dvXBitRBeTBuGXYhUrwFMrh3UsKRiBNfjw5jTo/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-12-04+at+12.20.14.png" width="428" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=7NRGqFgI0kU&subid=&offerid=207353.1&type=10&tmpid=6887&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.net-a-porter.com%2Fproduct%2F415858">Tamara Mellon's leather legging boots at Net-a-Porter</a></td></tr></tbody></table>Tamara Mellon's long-awaited collection of fashion staples launched today on Net-a-Porter. The most intriguing item is a pair of sleek leather boots which morph into actual leather leggings. It might be considered a landmark moment in the history of wardrobe essentials. There are a plethora of questions which come to mind when confronted with Mellon's £1,595 leather creations.<br /><br />The first is: how would one put them on elegantly? The answer to that, unless they come with a revealing instruction manual, is probably that they would have to be donned in privacy, on a day when there would no stipulation to remove your shoes at any point.<br /><br />The second question: what should should they be called? In the tradition of the tregging, maybe these are beggings (boots and leggings). Or if they are more of a boot then are they a troot? Or even a loot?<br /><br />The third question: why exactly are they called Sweet Revenge? The explanation is predictably linked to her rift with Jimmy Choo. According to <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10340191/Jimmy-Choo-founder-Tamara-Mellon-puts-the-boot-into-private-equity.html">a piece from The Telegraph in September</a>, Mellon has said that the boots symbolise "the kind of innovation that was all but bled out of the luxury shoe label before her departure in 2011". They say revenge is a dish best served cold, or in this case through the medium of a mind boggling new fashion piece. Here's hoping Nigella has been sent a pair.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-32097233818456899992013-12-02T11:22:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.750-08:00A LITTLE BIT OF CRUISE FASHION FANTASISINGPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0SDQ-12gEthOVhUkS5RfLlbInbbD2GA3dikxZD-kxsdoJT9qQiQDkFKzRKkErNwF3lxaK6VTuTyQO4knFD2KqQVzYQbAxdEhCpESG_z7G3zYOXNRmCbwlYtgJEyNGZrbgCo7nLNgk2II/s1600/gucci+2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0SDQ-12gEthOVhUkS5RfLlbInbbD2GA3dikxZD-kxsdoJT9qQiQDkFKzRKkErNwF3lxaK6VTuTyQO4knFD2KqQVzYQbAxdEhCpESG_z7G3zYOXNRmCbwlYtgJEyNGZrbgCo7nLNgk2II/s640/gucci+2.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br />It's that time of year again when snow is forecast and, almost perversely, Cruise collections hit designer shops on the assumption that we will of course be escaping somewhere sunny to escape falling temperatures and dark days and will need a new wardrobe for the occasion. Whether you really are flying off on a jet plane- Gucci call it "soar(ing) towards a sun-soaked horizon”- or not, there's definitely no harm in a little fashion fantasising as we get into the festive season proper. That’s probably why Cruise remains, even though the traditions it was built upon barely do. <br /><br />This is where the power of a brilliant style prop comes in. That little thing can become your shortcut to another time and place, make you a more glamorous and exotic version of yourself. A bit like a really fabulous tardis really. <br /><br />Take <a href="http://www.gucci.com/uk/styles/338969DCK0T9605?utm_source=handpicked_uk&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_campaign=holidays_2013-Nov-Dec#338969DCK0T9605">Gucci's shimmering silver clutch bag</a> which forms part of the accessories offer in the new Cruise collection. It’s like a portable disco ball; this bag could start a party wherever it goes. Frida Giannini thinks of “Jerry Hall beaming with breezy style”. Imagine picking it up and immediately you feel a little bit transformed, perhaps with a dash of Bianca Jagger attitude or Diana Ross glamour. <br /><br />At that point, it's almost irrelevant whether you’re dressing for dinner in Rio or for mulled wine in London, your prop takes you wherever your fashion fantasies want to go. Ta-da.<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7vMPjzWN7uVyTlg6Z9BFQKIo6s_jPpAwfzxlCIqeXWKSJx3LL4vSSwiq1cDW0LXszw4uN5L0oQWRbqwJgtroTDZ7boTJjrwoWEebw1VYiqrY_iEn1XS2oYAjdbt9y2a_SN4siIiuB2w/s1600/gucci+1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7vMPjzWN7uVyTlg6Z9BFQKIo6s_jPpAwfzxlCIqeXWKSJx3LL4vSSwiq1cDW0LXszw4uN5L0oQWRbqwJgtroTDZ7boTJjrwoWEebw1VYiqrY_iEn1XS2oYAjdbt9y2a_SN4siIiuB2w/s640/gucci+1.jpeg" width="536" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gucci's shimmering silver clutch bag</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: center;">*This post was sponsored by Gucci*</div></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-65743428148069199902013-11-28T10:26:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.756-08:00SELF-GIFTING IS THE BIGGEST SHOPPING TREND THIS CHRISTMASPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />Self-gifting is a fancy marketeers phrase for "spending the money you intended to spend on others on yourself". It's sort of like the post-recession version of maxing out your credit card where instead of simply spending more money you re-allocate the funds you'd initially meant to go towards your Grandad's new slippers/ your Mum's pyjamas on, oops, on a new pair of shoes. In the US, self-gifting is expected to account for 20% of festive season spending, rising to 35-40% on Black Friday and the following weekend.<br /><br />Perhaps calling it self-gifting is one of those delusory tactics which makes us feel a bit better about what is essentially splashing out on one of the many, many tempting things shops cram themselves with at this time of year and which we are supposed to buy for our nearest and dearest, rather than ourselves. Part of the 'problem' is that <i>you </i>are so easy to buy for. This morning, Kate Brindley, Liberty's Head of Marketing and Communications, tweeted about the forthcoming Nicholas Kirkwood sample sale:<br /><br /><div class="stream-item-header" style="background-color: whitesmoke; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px;"><a class="account-group js-account-group js-action-profile js-user-profile-link js-nav" data-user-id="491305020" href="https://twitter.com/Liberty_KateB" style="color: #999999; text-decoration: none;"><strong class="fullname js-action-profile-name show-popup-with-id" style="color: #333333;">Kate Brindley</strong> <span class="username js-action-profile-name" style="direction: ltr; font-size: 12px; unicode-bidi: embed;"><span style="color: #bbbbbb;">@</span>Liberty_KateB</span></a><small class="time" style="color: #bbbbbb; float: right; font-size: 12px; margin-right: 5px; margin-top: 1px; position: relative;"><a class="tweet-timestamp js-permalink js-nav js-tooltip" data-original-title="9:32 AM - 28 Nov 13" href="https://twitter.com/Liberty_KateB/status/405992582385508352" style="color: #999999; text-decoration: none;">8h</a></small></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;">Nicholas Kirkwood sample sale coming soon! Perfect for self gifting! <a class="twitter-atreply pretty-link" dir="ltr" href="https://twitter.com/NKirkwoodLondon" style="color: #038543; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #67b58e;">@</span>NKirkwoodLondon</a> <a class="twitter-atreply pretty-link" dir="ltr" href="https://twitter.com/StarworksGroup" style="color: #038543; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #67b58e;">@</span>StarworksGroup</a> <a class="twitter-timeline-link" data-original-title="" data-pre-embedded="true" dir="ltr" href="http://t.co/5mz1UXtRgA" style="color: #038543; text-decoration: none;">pic.twitter.com/5mz1UXtRgA</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKN826VbX1TRewCfRgxuCYFBweq75IL4sXgsKC1PYWxv5UHoV5PpJl4bGJw38HkMbnQPCayq1nbAFQti0d9xjxhplRC0MGprDH69qLi3ioGQSVSEknkCdGLaYDJnpUtebCiCF8Ph4Yq0A/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-11-28+at+17.58.05.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKN826VbX1TRewCfRgxuCYFBweq75IL4sXgsKC1PYWxv5UHoV5PpJl4bGJw38HkMbnQPCayq1nbAFQti0d9xjxhplRC0MGprDH69qLi3ioGQSVSEknkCdGLaYDJnpUtebCiCF8Ph4Yq0A/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-11-28+at+17.58.05.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: center; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;"><br /></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; text-align: left; word-wrap: break-word;">Of course, the Nicholas Kirkwood sale is perfect for self-gifting because, unless you have a sister or a very generous best friend, nobody else in your gift-giving line-up is likely to make the effort to elbow into a sample sale and have the knack to pick out the gems. Self-gifting is all about the gifts only you can really give yourself. In a way self-gifted presents might be the most useful but do they take away the charm of the practical, comfy slippers you unwrap from your Auntie on Christmas morning?</div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: normal; white-space: normal;"><br /></span></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; line-height: 18px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: normal; white-space: normal;">Harvey Nichols are pinning all their Christmas hopes on the notion of self-gifting with their very funny "I spent it on myself" ad campaign. In fact, they see it as such a retail moment that they have produced a range of super cheap gifts like gravel for £1.61 or paperclips for 99p to give a tiny section of their store a bit of a Poundland vibe. You give these miserly gifts to your loved ones on Christmas morning as you stroke your new Givenchy bag or twirl in your Dolce and Gabbana party dress. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">The logical conclusion of the trend would be stuffing the whole "giving" concept and us all just gathering on the 25th December to show off the big purchases we've treated ourselves too in the last few weeks. Bit sad, no?</span></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: normal; white-space: normal;"><br /></span></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ITyeI3YyYw8" width="640"></iframe></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: whitesmoke; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: small; line-height: normal; white-space: normal;"><br /></span></div><div class="cards-media-container js-media-container" style="background-color: whitesmoke; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><div class="cards-base cards-multimedia" data-card-type="photo" data-card-url="//twitter.com/Ella_LaPetite/status/405978744189227008/photo/1/large" data-element-context="platform_photo_card" style="border: 0px; margin: 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"></div></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-51247737253871616002013-11-14T11:12:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.763-08:00H&M POUR ISABEL MARANT ON EBAY: IS IT WORTH IT?Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> A natural part of the life cycle of an H&M collaboration is the furious eBaying which ensues the moment it goes on sale. And so it has been with the launch of Isabel Marant's collection today. I've just got back into the office having been out all day to discover that the current asking price on the tuxedo jacket (retail price £79.99) is up to £900. The fringed boots which are one of the star items of the range would have set back sharp elbowed shoppers £149.99 this morning but can now be snapped on up eBay for £400. </div><br />Just a thought but checking out the latest real deal Marant buys on Matches and Net-a-Porter shows that for £725 you could pick up a sleek pair of boots and still have change from the £900 you were going to spend on the blazer. Or perhaps get some Bekett's for £30 less than the collab boots on eBay. It's a fraught kind of fashion maths which would be ripe for some sort of physiological experiment. When there's this kind of shopping moment does our appetite for the "real" thing dull compared to the need for the limited edition piece?<br /><br />GET THIS…<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8flJaY6ovQ8g_r9A6plpKl5L2_zgEKDTx2zcJTZzpZSXwVdU8kNMQ1IlUm1D_ZEgvp9GEfVY50TTsjloRjgHP76Je_Z_eig3CnJRoUJKNMYDX4PJzg30_lCKr0HWDzuXChAT8qU7sAk/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+18.56.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8flJaY6ovQ8g_r9A6plpKl5L2_zgEKDTx2zcJTZzpZSXwVdU8kNMQ1IlUm1D_ZEgvp9GEfVY50TTsjloRjgHP76Je_Z_eig3CnJRoUJKNMYDX4PJzg30_lCKr0HWDzuXChAT8qU7sAk/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+18.56.49.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /> OR THIS…<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3T_pto3vlUJRV97_RqK0c8SBCwZtgAPcsoPhkV7ktkC_MGxBbqDDY5Gpnv6g3bjnLnT6nF1l9XC0wueVs8pOweIddOiXRIYHZdthA8AV2wArHPiLRX0qAibu1vgWXLuLmWlCDONFWP5A/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+19.03.42.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3T_pto3vlUJRV97_RqK0c8SBCwZtgAPcsoPhkV7ktkC_MGxBbqDDY5Gpnv6g3bjnLnT6nF1l9XC0wueVs8pOweIddOiXRIYHZdthA8AV2wArHPiLRX0qAibu1vgWXLuLmWlCDONFWP5A/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+19.03.42.png" width="640" /></a><br /> AND GET THIS<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQC8GBoQytttZIu4TPNBdWDeIY6g96N9tv-qcY86PY8fsj0VFgnHebj21W4k1lfwdafPrHfvS52YEeuWYkYeN9DExlqqKRwUy9SitkCGR3dOXQvVOrsLd1oV9sBVKTUkhjOyLXOMFKKs/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+19.02.19.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQC8GBoQytttZIu4TPNBdWDeIY6g96N9tv-qcY86PY8fsj0VFgnHebj21W4k1lfwdafPrHfvS52YEeuWYkYeN9DExlqqKRwUy9SitkCGR3dOXQvVOrsLd1oV9sBVKTUkhjOyLXOMFKKs/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+19.02.19.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">OR THIS...</div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCU5ZvrEIitS77TUojWhwYwwRZi7qT4MD97ZUeL4PhurbCWpuJCcP4YjPXBprBGJJ0pxDYsaERsZdxuj7rORkihfHHnimXE4o_36RuO7hXMko84PdrxEBMkeKeDqe0X5HZBWx1Fow3Cw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+19.04.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCU5ZvrEIitS77TUojWhwYwwRZi7qT4MD97ZUeL4PhurbCWpuJCcP4YjPXBprBGJJ0pxDYsaERsZdxuj7rORkihfHHnimXE4o_36RuO7hXMko84PdrxEBMkeKeDqe0X5HZBWx1Fow3Cw/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-11-14+at+19.04.58.png" width="640" /></a></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-33510188659095193682013-11-08T09:45:00.000-08:002014-01-06T08:12:44.771-08:00J.CREW COMES TO LONDON: WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />In case you hadn't heard, J.Crew opened today on Regent Street. There was a big queue, a fancy party and a massive bunch of balloons to hail its much-anticipated arrival after years of being a kind of mythical style mecca to which anyone in-the-know flocked on touchdown in the US. It will be interesting to see how our collective J.Crew love evolves now that we are <i>not</i> in a long distance relationship, especially if you actually live in London. I doubt it'll be a reverse case of "absence makes the heart grow fonder" but it's almost certain that there will be far more conversations in which cooing over a particular garment leads to a discovery that said item was picked up on the wearer's way home from work, IN J.Crew rather than "I saw something like it on the J.Crew site and got inspired and went and bought something like it in XXX". There are a few subtleties to J.Crew's UK arrival which I've been thinking about...<br /><br />1. They are embracing Englishness<br /><br />The magazine/ lookbook which has been produced in tandem with the UK round of shop openings features a very English country scene which, unusually for J.Crew, does not immediately scream "J.CREW". It actually looks more like a humble homage to the pastimes which J.Crew expects its new segment of UK customers will enjoy. This images feels to me like it is aimed at the people who aren't actually excited about the brand's arrival because they don't know it exists yet- shocking/ how is that possible, I know. These are the ones who will come in for armfuls of cashmere jumpers (if they deem it to be better than M&S's) and the preppier pieces. It will take them a long time to be converted to jazzy necklaces and sequin pencil skirts. This is the ultimate gently, gently image.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82RPGfmHJG9tqdbZEytvmBnKUjy7wt6k77sxz09NS8F0UjuBAvYAsF95M3v3wqdieN2Wwp0rKgwO1nb86LBF553VbWzqvv9X5ZOOnh72xrAVrTqWNPUD0iHMwON9Mnchk2JGAKHHx7F8/s1600/IMG_1647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82RPGfmHJG9tqdbZEytvmBnKUjy7wt6k77sxz09NS8F0UjuBAvYAsF95M3v3wqdieN2Wwp0rKgwO1nb86LBF553VbWzqvv9X5ZOOnh72xrAVrTqWNPUD0iHMwON9Mnchk2JGAKHHx7F8/s640/IMG_1647.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br />2. They are delivering impeccable service<br /><br />When I went into the men's store when it opened on Lamb's Conduit Street a few weeks ago, they gave me a free umbrella, were friendly (but not too friendly) and stood back, making it feel like you could just browse in a shop which is really so tiny that it could be intimidating to go inside for fear that a shop assistant would be breathing down your neck the whole time. Impressive. This could be where J.Crew makes a real difference in the UK, blending the best of both service cultures.<br /><br />3. They might be trying to evolve the classic Jenna Lyons look<br /><br />Back to this lookbook and some of the images within are a real departure from the Jenna look which has been a huge part of putting J Crew on the fashion map. Some of the shirt collars are undone. Lips are bare, not red. There are no glasses. The brilliant outfit ideas are still there but I love that they are introducing J.Crew to the UK at this fresh level. It sort of feels new again.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbVUS9pBoFN85j_vyqu_PLI3nOBknC_5sbQZxKczVmw8MSt881mzMi8PKW9LI853yEBelgzejPbKXUbEE-mAnI_k6lgd3cI6KHNnxkb_D270AIwj2TdU-x7QkOO3NeXOe5QbTMAL5Qlas/s1600/IMG_1645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbVUS9pBoFN85j_vyqu_PLI3nOBknC_5sbQZxKczVmw8MSt881mzMi8PKW9LI853yEBelgzejPbKXUbEE-mAnI_k6lgd3cI6KHNnxkb_D270AIwj2TdU-x7QkOO3NeXOe5QbTMAL5Qlas/s640/IMG_1645.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7wVhD1bs643w32FOFMRLFHkM7NVOfJT1v3USSuiSFhSqYHVOHlLmGO86WL1wspbAOidxc9Caxj5afhJ9QOjhRoUCWoTXqRUg6wYKlCwoDB5zA02_ZEQoHzv82q84LvD0N3M6YiiJau6k/s1600/IMG_1646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7wVhD1bs643w32FOFMRLFHkM7NVOfJT1v3USSuiSFhSqYHVOHlLmGO86WL1wspbAOidxc9Caxj5afhJ9QOjhRoUCWoTXqRUg6wYKlCwoDB5zA02_ZEQoHzv82q84LvD0N3M6YiiJau6k/s640/IMG_1646.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br />4. They probably won't "change the high street".<br /><br />There has been a lot of talk that the arrival of J.Crew might change the high street. This is probably not going to happen. The mid-market/ high street landscape is very different here to in the US and I think we like a store with a strong identity (see: COS, Topshop, Uniqlo, Whistles). J. Crew will bring something new to that mix but any influence their styling was going to have has probably been felt already.<br /><br />And with that, I, along with countless others (probably) am finally off down to Regent Street.<br /><br /><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-71284155908586817772013-11-01T11:32:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:44.864-08:00FUR GETS FUNNY: FENDI BAG BUGS HIT HARRODS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCkHa-d8idTqGQLFPd5h37E15NeyY1d8En67AIRzS_5i9NBjzjgn-EFJeSUclKw5JDXzNvFmuw_ZBNiNdAdALP4qR3hQM1WY1y30bWiitEu4P_pO3vXtfgePZvDKu8RrxP7X6b1PvN3I/s1600/IMG_1090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCkHa-d8idTqGQLFPd5h37E15NeyY1d8En67AIRzS_5i9NBjzjgn-EFJeSUclKw5JDXzNvFmuw_ZBNiNdAdALP4qR3hQM1WY1y30bWiitEu4P_pO3vXtfgePZvDKu8RrxP7X6b1PvN3I/s640/IMG_1090.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fendi Peekaboo bag bug</td></tr></tbody></table>High fashion was once the preserve of very serious clothes. It was straight-faced, not quite sensible but definitely targeted at being investment standard. Obviously there are always exceptions, but for the most part it was all about projecting a certain kind of pulled- together, grown-up vibe. You certainly wouldn't have expected to be able to compare a designer handbag to a character from <i>Rainbow. </i>Fashion has found its sense of humour though; think about gorgeous designer shoes by Charlotte Olympia and Sophia Webster which come with girly, fantastical themes likes carnivals, fairytales and Barbie. Or they way Karl Lagerfeld puts a hula hoop bag on the Chanel runway. Once upon a time, you'd have to go to joke shop for that sort of thing, now you find it in… Harrods.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPN-IoelZ2IixeTFJ_B0Wp6wgeWKrsW6Z_UfZu4i-kVOpffEqBRmomf8MWfXnhgaXiqQ8Jcf4zu24vH3zvhjEJkTWO2qlMvIkcGavxGQ01eGNMgHijLUujUnqxkuqexpqRtDBbjB6UmCs/s1600/fendi+bugs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPN-IoelZ2IixeTFJ_B0Wp6wgeWKrsW6Z_UfZu4i-kVOpffEqBRmomf8MWfXnhgaXiqQ8Jcf4zu24vH3zvhjEJkTWO2qlMvIkcGavxGQ01eGNMgHijLUujUnqxkuqexpqRtDBbjB6UmCs/s640/fendi+bugs.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fendi Bag bugs £375 each</td></tr></tbody></table>This is where Fendi, whose FF logo incidentally stands for Fun Fur, have just opened a pop-up boutique for their Bag Bugs range which is fabulously colourful, fun and Instagram-able (a pretty crucial part of the strategy I'm sure). Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld introduced Bag Bugs for Aw13 and Silvia Fendi herself came up with their names- Snobius, Furyou and Nutty- as they are now a permanent fixture in the Fendi offering. They transform one of those very strait-laced, sensibly purchased handbags into a sweet statement. The only downside is that they are made from real fur. If mink isn't your thing, then the range includes purses, bags and scarves decorated with big, funny bug eyes. I particularly loved the Peekaboo tote which you can close up to look like a sleek, businesslike bag all the while knowing that there's a goggly pair of eyes inside. It reminds me of Zippy, hence the <i>Rainbow</i> reference.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguh9z24LASVBnKpMTr8GEBGG_CkEoxGOHmKU_Mpx4rvkAY5Ag10l__MJGvreGNFaIRGPg3kWdIap8-DFUz3baaiDc3Oo9kmY59jpjE85wKg_82sjD21C4qC1GtqA2sZ3u6kc5JUG9W5Bk/s1600/IMG_1100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguh9z24LASVBnKpMTr8GEBGG_CkEoxGOHmKU_Mpx4rvkAY5Ag10l__MJGvreGNFaIRGPg3kWdIap8-DFUz3baaiDc3Oo9kmY59jpjE85wKg_82sjD21C4qC1GtqA2sZ3u6kc5JUG9W5Bk/s640/IMG_1100.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 2jour bag £1140</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTzZDRzaw7Z6RE48nN1NyGpM81dqma04pZsfVqnA88mdR2fI5lkcU065OKebQdLH4Ivje2n_Jo3Zxj1XLEv019ONc5btG7iECg8Kg_ynO9THZpOKWi4FbmBpGSR9h8-XG0X5Y3mOJ67mk/s1600/IMG_1088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTzZDRzaw7Z6RE48nN1NyGpM81dqma04pZsfVqnA88mdR2fI5lkcU065OKebQdLH4Ivje2n_Jo3Zxj1XLEv019ONc5btG7iECg8Kg_ynO9THZpOKWi4FbmBpGSR9h8-XG0X5Y3mOJ67mk/s640/IMG_1088.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Totally amazing Fendi Baguette, bag bugged.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9UxfPlSd9nCPrNUlydlCytSZqloEewiWIeJvdQLCqnhfvfTuxmZtRNTf1yaPpdS91xRiCQRiT-wBrkLIqkX7aHuGKD5BpRDXe-edfvfFXvmKvXi3wOB8M0FQll1t1LBMPD6ruAz7fItU/s1600/zippy-waving-08062011-1322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9UxfPlSd9nCPrNUlydlCytSZqloEewiWIeJvdQLCqnhfvfTuxmZtRNTf1yaPpdS91xRiCQRiT-wBrkLIqkX7aHuGKD5BpRDXe-edfvfFXvmKvXi3wOB8M0FQll1t1LBMPD6ruAz7fItU/s640/zippy-waving-08062011-1322.jpg" width="604" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fendi Bag Bug bags = Zippy dead ringers</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiljYUkmrWAHUYTvs9Idz5sHnh0IJkZdQoJqdAu29CCyI-XaOv_46ikXO8Eeb2ZuzuZRh2wu6AS79BA-YOvpyuVIFc9-ZFnJAXbVrPOzyU94gD6ca_-s0XLlWFFa-KxgZZN0ShwCgWnc/s1600/IMG_1112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiljYUkmrWAHUYTvs9Idz5sHnh0IJkZdQoJqdAu29CCyI-XaOv_46ikXO8Eeb2ZuzuZRh2wu6AS79BA-YOvpyuVIFc9-ZFnJAXbVrPOzyU94gD6ca_-s0XLlWFFa-KxgZZN0ShwCgWnc/s640/IMG_1112.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More Peekaboo tote (£3720)</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Oh and look out for Fendi's bag bug video which goes live on Tuesday, here's the teaser<br /><br /><iframe frameborder="0" height="270" src="http://www.dailymotion.com/embed/video/x16883t" width="480"></iframe><br /><a href="http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x16883t_l-invasion-des-bags-bugs-de-fendi_lifestyle" target="_blank">L'invasion des Bags Bugs de Fendi</a> <i>by <a href="http://www.dailymotion.com/VOGUEPARIS" target="_blank">VOGUEPARIS</a></i><br /><br />The Bag Bug pop-up is open at Harrods until November 30th- it's so fun, go! Find it through Door 9.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-60789953088125021322013-10-30T11:30:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:44.966-08:00HAPPY 5TH BIRTHDAY WESTFIELD DESIGNER SWEATSHIRTSPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />Melanie and I have been working with Westfield on a few projects recently and here is one of them… A super fabulous designer sweatshirt collaboration. We got five brilliant LFW talents to make a gorgeous jumper in their signature way to help Westfield London celebrate the fifth anniversary of its opening (doesn't it seem like forever?). The sweatshirts are going to be on sale in shiny new pop-up shop in The Atrium at Westfield London until 6th November. They're completely unique and limited edition plus they're only £65- it's pretty unlikely you'd get anything from one of these designers for that price. The sweatshirts were made in London at<a href="http://www.fashion-enter.com/"> Fashion Enter</a> and all proceeds go to Save the Children too. The cliche "what's not to love" has never been more appropriate. So which one will you be buying?<br /><br />The gorgeous Sophia Webster turned her hand to clothes for the first time, superimposing sparkling jewel images over stripes then adding sleeves and trims in the girlish, cute kinds of colours which we know and love in her shoes.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPHiScgiqyzx05xJR0DFJJ6tyGN8WwKgpcU3qnX2Lkz7CQEarBEdMjgVgx25SePQs1eOKeQz0Lz0wjqwHUgnN0s9_fw6KnPBw4C1toMolyUF5ofWhSeVbTsDiiylAUj5K53hpJDGgxS4/s1600/i-V3WR5kW-X2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPHiScgiqyzx05xJR0DFJJ6tyGN8WwKgpcU3qnX2Lkz7CQEarBEdMjgVgx25SePQs1eOKeQz0Lz0wjqwHUgnN0s9_fw6KnPBw4C1toMolyUF5ofWhSeVbTsDiiylAUj5K53hpJDGgxS4/s640/i-V3WR5kW-X2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Thomas Tait, one of London's major up-and-coming talents, added some super chic fashion details to his design; a perfect-for-now polo neck, edgy sliced front panel and a longer length so we can wear his jumper as a top or a tunic.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC84Df6iJ9sl-09x476ybpZIh2ENAtJ7P5mdIF4vq3FT4FBcABo6exIY9ZldgpR6x9LWyqroC7KxaMorwLrATMzObs3f9t2Z4XDPk9G4131xWi_5X3vMm9TdfYW_oF2yS6oXxXw7cGu9E/s1600/i-KcpTfWL-X2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC84Df6iJ9sl-09x476ybpZIh2ENAtJ7P5mdIF4vq3FT4FBcABo6exIY9ZldgpR6x9LWyqroC7KxaMorwLrATMzObs3f9t2Z4XDPk9G4131xWi_5X3vMm9TdfYW_oF2yS6oXxXw7cGu9E/s640/i-KcpTfWL-X2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The lovely Louise Gray spliced two of her digital print designs- one inspired by the London Tube map and the other by the starry night sky- to create her sweatshirt which also has sporty aertex sleeve strips.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ue8pWEQwBjMdKybh2Telpy1kuhCl0Duf0lcL3bModavpZcjCnAHNHI-3i5AXtzcKx2nJcQQ4SDGRZTzHLshBImBdBoUUHhX2SyejfqRbGsXk2BCmc5pgbVXDsDyDlmXgOjTYESdSd3k/s1600/i-dQZxxP2-X2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ue8pWEQwBjMdKybh2Telpy1kuhCl0Duf0lcL3bModavpZcjCnAHNHI-3i5AXtzcKx2nJcQQ4SDGRZTzHLshBImBdBoUUHhX2SyejfqRbGsXk2BCmc5pgbVXDsDyDlmXgOjTYESdSd3k/s640/i-dQZxxP2-X2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Peter and Christopher from Peter Pilotto used a print of sound waves hitting water which also appeared in their Autumn/Winter '13 collection. They call the effect 'a modern check' with its slightly distorted lines. Also ideal for bonfire night, in our opinion.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU2R5__EovAi_7PW8khgFxKkUnKiqBuLWGxjUayvM-nXmOnF12F9FS4FsaxGefJoGNNdkQ3gULOKKtPTmXfho2wm-cBnkAV9AHQvvzYc1KE_6-CFFuXSJOgYcBb_b6gZzr83gSfzl_AfM/s1600/i-36HC3F9-X2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU2R5__EovAi_7PW8khgFxKkUnKiqBuLWGxjUayvM-nXmOnF12F9FS4FsaxGefJoGNNdkQ3gULOKKtPTmXfho2wm-cBnkAV9AHQvvzYc1KE_6-CFFuXSJOgYcBb_b6gZzr83gSfzl_AfM/s640/i-36HC3F9-X2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Richard Nicoll stamped a big number five in beautiful candy floss pink onto his grey marl jumper, very sports luxe- we can imagine wearing it with one of Richard's shiny pencil skirts.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFK4jjNeuiFusk14565V6IU_NqG1p81rwcw_HExNlM_w80OgD-ZKmVu6m-8DYELP87p6Aff-RursG7R4ppkT-mqAx0BA5UUXaFT9orY-0IRr2Ebn5zT3Q2uIcJZHBCAgueDIo55L6btTg/s1600/i-NbMKMDX-X2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFK4jjNeuiFusk14565V6IU_NqG1p81rwcw_HExNlM_w80OgD-ZKmVu6m-8DYELP87p6Aff-RursG7R4ppkT-mqAx0BA5UUXaFT9orY-0IRr2Ebn5zT3Q2uIcJZHBCAgueDIo55L6btTg/s640/i-NbMKMDX-X2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Images courtesy of Westfield<br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-42413849801776719312013-10-24T09:16:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.059-08:00ISABEL MARANT X H&M: PARISIAN BOHO CHIC WE CAN AFFORD Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjkbVOP_-o4VpiMhL1xSHLvMj1nx5W8gkbd6neuNLy_orT77oHiL47yVrGZ3ISSSHuYF6CCLmzblgCd_DE0lcPiLnE3MBdK71qXwUZq7qL5VodEhyphenhyphentlY5Esq6xrYe5uAvDST6Epld3CAA/s1600/IMG_1061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjkbVOP_-o4VpiMhL1xSHLvMj1nx5W8gkbd6neuNLy_orT77oHiL47yVrGZ3ISSSHuYF6CCLmzblgCd_DE0lcPiLnE3MBdK71qXwUZq7qL5VodEhyphenhyphentlY5Esq6xrYe5uAvDST6Epld3CAA/s640/IMG_1061.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isabel Marant in Paris at the launch of her H&M collection today</td></tr></tbody></table>As fashion legend goes, Isabel Marant is one of the coolest designers around, totally au fait with having her photo taken without a scrap of make-up on, hair mussed into bun and wrapped in a big, old jumper you or I might reserve for Sunday afternoons. She is nonchalant where the rest of us might be control-freakish and overprepared. In fact, Isabel Marant is so <i>cool</i> that she has practically invented a whole new definition for the word. And so it comes of something of a surprise for her to admit that the reason she finally plumped to join H&M for their next designer collaboration is that slightly nerdish phenomenon, fanmail. "It made sense for me to do this collection for the people who love me; they send me letters telling me how much they love my clothes" explained Marant at the preview of her H&M collection which launches with a party in Paris tonight before going on sale on November 14th. So touched is Marant by the contents of her mail bag that she is compiling a book of "all the super-sweet letters I have received".<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho44nhT7KwqZTeDsYBSkJcJhPXY8olR7pdOBxvJ-ltC1v3ji1mSrLbVWZCfm34oDKhMEMAZtG7EtMJYRYw3D2yPt79_UgF5zwTGs3SH-feSqpD4VHKZMmTkRwxLs_wF82sZ7oa_bSGX2U/s1600/IMG_1031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho44nhT7KwqZTeDsYBSkJcJhPXY8olR7pdOBxvJ-ltC1v3ji1mSrLbVWZCfm34oDKhMEMAZtG7EtMJYRYw3D2yPt79_UgF5zwTGs3SH-feSqpD4VHKZMmTkRwxLs_wF82sZ7oa_bSGX2U/s640/IMG_1031.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnU-ky942ji5H1ifi6Efw83HGnqjD_MPDNK7zIvoMxxWK-8ex8d8ONMdZxnsqptAcLHkGroJwti6qtjXR6gkG4AP-5cDdirXxXmFEi_LoZGUqMaCN26em1yO6V5mlgCYxJX-5eCHorTQ/s1600/IMG_1033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnU-ky942ji5H1ifi6Efw83HGnqjD_MPDNK7zIvoMxxWK-8ex8d8ONMdZxnsqptAcLHkGroJwti6qtjXR6gkG4AP-5cDdirXxXmFEi_LoZGUqMaCN26em1yO6V5mlgCYxJX-5eCHorTQ/s640/IMG_1033.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFAgfcCvx7F-3NR05gn46_CSxIV8ImKmZ33ODwGoAbTt1EyG-bpyimaUcyLDsTE5nMXxvvFnARpeU81gi3AArZ0sl4PAV-7QQbkjtGZmk-QvD41JyLU6GEu-AqlF5NcNH9GoMMyoYLZSo/s1600/IMG_1040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFAgfcCvx7F-3NR05gn46_CSxIV8ImKmZ33ODwGoAbTt1EyG-bpyimaUcyLDsTE5nMXxvvFnARpeU81gi3AArZ0sl4PAV-7QQbkjtGZmk-QvD41JyLU6GEu-AqlF5NcNH9GoMMyoYLZSo/s640/IMG_1040.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />By the looks of the H&M collection, Marant is about to add to her fan base. Unlike many of the other designers who have worked with H&M (Donatella Versace and Karl Lagerfeld, for example), she is not a celebrity in her own right. Those beyond the fashion world might know Marant's name, but perhaps more as a by-word for the very particular way of dressing which her brand had engendered. H&M call it "boho elegance and rock'n'roll nonchalance" but you only have to look at Emmanuelle Alt, Gwyneth Paltrow or Kate Bosworth to see it in action. And beyond that, anyone who's considered a wedge trainer or ankle boot, a laced leather trouser or anything Navajo has come under the Marant influence, even if they don't know it. It's actually this group which she is keen to reach by designing for the high street- "It's a good way for me to remind everyone that it was me who made these things". It's crystal clear that Marant is a bit pissed off with seeing girls walking around in second (or even third/fourth) rate copies of the products which she calls her "kids".<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyLHJQnDNNPUYE-3wNnaRrBbe_yG6mSUjWeP5at5X-ARe8xslJgfxpJAtfQX69qmf6aeF-BGCK3aIB3yUWipmW_58p4aMVKXZtre9nbMLlX8xOaYK3mD431srhshlpKuIDK-FgSr6kx0/s1600/IMG_1029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyLHJQnDNNPUYE-3wNnaRrBbe_yG6mSUjWeP5at5X-ARe8xslJgfxpJAtfQX69qmf6aeF-BGCK3aIB3yUWipmW_58p4aMVKXZtre9nbMLlX8xOaYK3mD431srhshlpKuIDK-FgSr6kx0/s640/IMG_1029.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSGGHYMC_yryEUTGHMOMmbp5LHG9HWBC7oVcEWghx3x_y8DZtqRC-Bbx8OU09L1vyNC0sWBElkMl_-t0lfSHUW8mV9Pmq4HivuI9IhP_3ipWrUvFw4TAlyA9MA6ckIVolvG_GJTyOlnc/s1600/IMG_1044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSGGHYMC_yryEUTGHMOMmbp5LHG9HWBC7oVcEWghx3x_y8DZtqRC-Bbx8OU09L1vyNC0sWBElkMl_-t0lfSHUW8mV9Pmq4HivuI9IhP_3ipWrUvFw4TAlyA9MA6ckIVolvG_GJTyOlnc/s640/IMG_1044.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />Although there's not a wedge trainer in sight in the H&M collection, there is a brilliant selection of beautiful, instantly distinctive Isabel Marant greatest hits. Those fringed wedge boots have been reinterpreted in two-tone suede and leather. Then there's a huge selection of ikat printed skirts, loose slouchy trousers and tiered dresses. There are several versions of the super skinny, slightly cropped and zipped trousers which come coated (in red, white and black) rather than the original leather. Among the most fabulous components are sparkling going out clothes; sequinned leggings, a shrug-on silver jacquard bomber and several of those super-sexy teeny weeny mini dresses which appear in each and every Marant catwalk show.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg01LgTVZIQURwxBP41dg64guKmxZ-qZYSCmI1VY_Ygr52EAmhte_8A6u5hRBmJw33kcb0ssZ70mV8AnxZJ6GDWhcLR0p96OwnyYGe2EthWTUBcfcBnCrigA6VXynEW1tbEdREhORFmBxw/s1600/IMG_1050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg01LgTVZIQURwxBP41dg64guKmxZ-qZYSCmI1VY_Ygr52EAmhte_8A6u5hRBmJw33kcb0ssZ70mV8AnxZJ6GDWhcLR0p96OwnyYGe2EthWTUBcfcBnCrigA6VXynEW1tbEdREhORFmBxw/s640/IMG_1050.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marant for kids</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3P7MD3nWAga-Ry2ZzYcieHHidiyMTZykf84Lq5KDH5MnPNA3cMRW6F1ifvr-PxjCgbc2e5eEfCEx2alL28Jz9B_vqPTT321LpC-_P9LJqgV8LkijUCUDa2I5c0Y_5kndSpG8Ov6OUgI/s1600/IMG_1060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3P7MD3nWAga-Ry2ZzYcieHHidiyMTZykf84Lq5KDH5MnPNA3cMRW6F1ifvr-PxjCgbc2e5eEfCEx2alL28Jz9B_vqPTT321LpC-_P9LJqgV8LkijUCUDa2I5c0Y_5kndSpG8Ov6OUgI/s640/IMG_1060.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isabel Marant jumper- supposedly for kids.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Pd3kJsHhR55JWj6CUXBopSay0AeaifWfOCy5PyZKTizHw7bvGAhOLEtcZm0xanYvBzI5CThFpCdSR8D3BE35opu4XA2znL49hmgU6f_PapcHnpCfdMYIDSNorY5r5lxKeFb3vk1g7XM/s1600/IMG_1055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Pd3kJsHhR55JWj6CUXBopSay0AeaifWfOCy5PyZKTizHw7bvGAhOLEtcZm0xanYvBzI5CThFpCdSR8D3BE35opu4XA2znL49hmgU6f_PapcHnpCfdMYIDSNorY5r5lxKeFb3vk1g7XM/s640/IMG_1055.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isabel Marant kids denim jacket</td></tr></tbody></table>She has also taken this chance to expand her horizons beyond womenswear into men's and kids'- please can somebody photograph a Marant clad family? As with everything Marant, her approach to this new venture came from her everyday experiences; "My husband (the accessories designer Jerome Dreyfuss) often takes my jeans and sweaters- our bodies are the same. Of course, I borrow his clothes too. I think it's very contemporary to share a closet'. The result is a menswear collection which doesn't look so very dissimilar to the womenswear, with plenty of chunky knits, embroidered jeans and slouchy boots making the cut. The savviest of shoppers will be buying bits from across the gender/ age categories. I'll be snapping up the tea dress from the women's collection along with one of the men's sweaters and perhaps even a shrunken little denim jacket or tie-dye skater shoes from the kids range (sizes go up to a generous age 14/ shoes size 39). Marant, meanwhile, might need to buy a bigger postbox.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-89621034702929818092013-10-21T04:35:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.154-08:00FRIEZE ALTERNATIVE: SHEFFIELD STREET ARTPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />Are you on a Frieze comedown today? Maybe you're an art world type who spent the last week in a haze of parties and viewings. Perhaps you dedicated several hours of your weekend to covering the vast exhibition in Regents Park. Or it could just be that your social media feeds will be more freed up for variety today after a long run of posts involving selfies inside Jennifer Rubell's "Portrait of the Artist" open-wombed sculpture. Whatever your Frieze situation, the show's moved on for another year.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizX5zja80NevcwmTGGb8sHdMaVZr2yyeN0oYjJu-a3D9hLlpUUgiL2qDHhMpwAJiW0cZriH1PVVhvOE-dWAog_RjQEGvcfCqXVpBsvWMahAc5zKIZZs0uij1ERYD7JvoxqyNkZP-A7JDE/s1600/IMG_0105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizX5zja80NevcwmTGGb8sHdMaVZr2yyeN0oYjJu-a3D9hLlpUUgiL2qDHhMpwAJiW0cZriH1PVVhvOE-dWAog_RjQEGvcfCqXVpBsvWMahAc5zKIZZs0uij1ERYD7JvoxqyNkZP-A7JDE/s640/IMG_0105.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kid Acne</td></tr></tbody></table>So, where to get your next dose of contemporary creativity? May I suggest Sheffield. Unlikely suggestion, I know, given those old hat it's grim up North/ Full Monty stereotypes. But after one of my best friends moved to the city earlier this year, I went to visit her for the weekend and discovered how a cohort of street artists are reclaiming what could be an area of incredibly depressing decaying industrial buildings, mostly former steelworks, as canvases for their work. It helps if you know someone in the area to show you around, but I reckon that if you just walk ten minutes or so from the station to Sidney Street then you will get a good start, with Rocket 01's incredible mural of Charles Darwin. This is probably the most astonishing thing you will see, with the fine details and old portraiture style defying what you might usually expect "street art" to be. The strokes which make up the Darwinian beard seem to be made all the more delicate as they fizzle out from the sturdy, centuries old bricks they are painted onto. Make sure you search out Rocket 01's portrait of David Attenborough (on Charles Street) and also Faunagraphic's (Rocket 01's girlfriend) Harry Brearley mural at the end of Pond Street.<br /><br />Just across the road from the Charles Darwin, there is an overgrown yard in which stands the bare bones of some old factory where the brick walls have been covered with all manner of graffiti from the very beautiful to the properly lazy vandalism type. It's not so pristine and lovely as a glossy art gallery but treading over broken glass and sidestepping piles of bricks makes the very existence of each work you come across all the more exciting. Once you begin wandering around this area, turning down abandoned little lanes or even just taking the time to look up or round corners, you'll come across dozens of great pieces by artists who are putting down firm roots in Sheffield but also those passing through, like D7606. I wish I'd seen more of Phlegm's precise and haunting work while I was there too. This <a href="http://sheffieldstreetart.tumblr.com/">tumblr </a>is probably your definitive guide to all Sheffield's street art- it's sad to read on there that the council might start destroying it all as part of renovation plans which would be a huge shame. I guess that threat does give you good reason to go sharp-ish though. Unlike Frieze, or any other big organised exhibition, nobody's ever going to give you an "end date".<br /><br />Here's a quick tumble of my Sheffield snaps. Artists websites at the end...<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsS6Bq6S6fkMO32t92Qwo1_hDiZxARDCTl5_FjY-vcl-Fj3PsOC0y9JXgjbGto7dGT1y7-l_Fih0KDQCdmzYQF4lAcBLvsPsgbVtLGrqzbBu8Jhyphenhyphen6d3Wkq9CSUxF5d_Vfryo0i5nHaHko/s1600/IMG_0111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsS6Bq6S6fkMO32t92Qwo1_hDiZxARDCTl5_FjY-vcl-Fj3PsOC0y9JXgjbGto7dGT1y7-l_Fih0KDQCdmzYQF4lAcBLvsPsgbVtLGrqzbBu8Jhyphenhyphen6d3Wkq9CSUxF5d_Vfryo0i5nHaHko/s640/IMG_0111.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kid Acne</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT7Dy2usKjgvbbIEmMLL_phQJScRvfb8S8lcTv5MUTl8BXwD5UihzNz6Qz13w2E1swm-HIm6fDkLkgzBMmSjCDTlRulQVNWF-GqawqG2gGSP5AKakeMbLKhqpDw2qV_gtCObPM2oiI1HU/s1600/IMG_0116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT7Dy2usKjgvbbIEmMLL_phQJScRvfb8S8lcTv5MUTl8BXwD5UihzNz6Qz13w2E1swm-HIm6fDkLkgzBMmSjCDTlRulQVNWF-GqawqG2gGSP5AKakeMbLKhqpDw2qV_gtCObPM2oiI1HU/s640/IMG_0116.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twiggy postboxes by D7606</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtMt5YKbAzzZqss9N3GVM4ruV7cxaytW0-Ny0IW8In3VivBsNSP22srq-bt8WMAevUzjdGAFnrKWE7gXVRxkVnV5Os5Jz0penGmU7njGUlYyhdcgX0OC8xvWyA0OLk5AQ_62peRBODow0/s1600/IMG_0117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtMt5YKbAzzZqss9N3GVM4ruV7cxaytW0-Ny0IW8In3VivBsNSP22srq-bt8WMAevUzjdGAFnrKWE7gXVRxkVnV5Os5Jz0penGmU7njGUlYyhdcgX0OC8xvWyA0OLk5AQ_62peRBODow0/s640/IMG_0117.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Charles Darwin by Rocket 01</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMv8HXfQSZNjORkNqxaEBAASgpK8aDT9IoRg_vXjLLL6hKv1tsBH9eZfZy8WBA-2kcilaqtgJDmxKqtPtLl1WOvcZtoh335Bjd5n7WKGxBSs6EUz5fVeGEM2H7dR5X6BdBGZBfnhBwfC4/s1600/IMG_0119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMv8HXfQSZNjORkNqxaEBAASgpK8aDT9IoRg_vXjLLL6hKv1tsBH9eZfZy8WBA-2kcilaqtgJDmxKqtPtLl1WOvcZtoh335Bjd5n7WKGxBSs6EUz5fVeGEM2H7dR5X6BdBGZBfnhBwfC4/s640/IMG_0119.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Phlegm</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi02Pcc18TbS_5UnZ6XKD8KVSXVwxaK6pT661bdUwZV5n3_Rk0lAXwHVfdH0EZIC-BhMiAkZCpMJ7JYRMuQbVaru5bweGursZpYCM5JxTHXa1SdeZKMK1M6Vy7si0y8g3JtZ0nM6-PAYx8/s1600/IMG_0120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi02Pcc18TbS_5UnZ6XKD8KVSXVwxaK6pT661bdUwZV5n3_Rk0lAXwHVfdH0EZIC-BhMiAkZCpMJ7JYRMuQbVaru5bweGursZpYCM5JxTHXa1SdeZKMK1M6Vy7si0y8g3JtZ0nM6-PAYx8/s640/IMG_0120.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2URUDeO1i3y6g5fzXTCZC7nfItN5fGZTZbC7PjYgs5UPGZtSVDnSUYoo8iLLAJwZr_V_DusR1riAh81K5UPDT2vCgrs0z7BJLnKoGttGVlSF7qixrAb3NMoThDEaR7XHp7ZD0rFGA2U/s1600/IMG_0123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2URUDeO1i3y6g5fzXTCZC7nfItN5fGZTZbC7PjYgs5UPGZtSVDnSUYoo8iLLAJwZr_V_DusR1riAh81K5UPDT2vCgrs0z7BJLnKoGttGVlSF7qixrAb3NMoThDEaR7XHp7ZD0rFGA2U/s640/IMG_0123.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Phlegm</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOLlfydYhyphenhyphenVsWJ7L418W6m4wDz4U73bDf0K-4csgAZBfmVLexUWrHmhyv7_GzYawRr5Cd5OCbU6D1uR0ioxMUMAO0axmSH_UscCUl-qkRCyT3esd2NF3uBsG_oUpTbQQEJF_QroUp4p2I/s1600/IMG_0124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOLlfydYhyphenhyphenVsWJ7L418W6m4wDz4U73bDf0K-4csgAZBfmVLexUWrHmhyv7_GzYawRr5Cd5OCbU6D1uR0ioxMUMAO0axmSH_UscCUl-qkRCyT3esd2NF3uBsG_oUpTbQQEJF_QroUp4p2I/s640/IMG_0124.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">EMA a.k.a Florence Blanchard</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM3WLQv3LkC6K_fwwuVmtluAJr1xOClr2CJ4jCTAkYQ6SONE9BunRYn7nwl28Tm0Z0UGiN6iMojMbBlNtmhRBD56QvA3nCHQyWrgdeQzy_zUFJ_CLXNA3gyVzpZ7KRZHLqYXOJ609zdsU/s1600/IMG_0125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM3WLQv3LkC6K_fwwuVmtluAJr1xOClr2CJ4jCTAkYQ6SONE9BunRYn7nwl28Tm0Z0UGiN6iMojMbBlNtmhRBD56QvA3nCHQyWrgdeQzy_zUFJ_CLXNA3gyVzpZ7KRZHLqYXOJ609zdsU/s640/IMG_0125.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcUMfXmowgNhIEOcegR36fIClBTVA-UitL3lPYZGajY6xT-XGKHavAdUCOisuW0cf08FARvWCi0It1FuthLJRYQBFwBJ0RMmOh4p3RIB1JgrOGaKUYqNuUPhAwhiwuVxHHlt2URox59U/s1600/IMG_0127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcUMfXmowgNhIEOcegR36fIClBTVA-UitL3lPYZGajY6xT-XGKHavAdUCOisuW0cf08FARvWCi0It1FuthLJRYQBFwBJ0RMmOh4p3RIB1JgrOGaKUYqNuUPhAwhiwuVxHHlt2URox59U/s640/IMG_0127.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kid Acne</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxrejgxo1Bge6BNLKitT4sBITmgANTcoP-oxdxuLXwdRrLf1oMpw_fWl-9WcqFSqWI2ym3x0Rv4xnYtEDVhCeox197B6n28bPF7ePyjTo3NaYT0V5-Kd1FOr7j0sJRtTGuY7VpJIy5g8Q/s1600/IMG_0128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxrejgxo1Bge6BNLKitT4sBITmgANTcoP-oxdxuLXwdRrLf1oMpw_fWl-9WcqFSqWI2ym3x0Rv4xnYtEDVhCeox197B6n28bPF7ePyjTo3NaYT0V5-Kd1FOr7j0sJRtTGuY7VpJIy5g8Q/s640/IMG_0128.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kid Acne</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkkm6V3B59_kuAdUqtIUPZl5UC6b_46qXnj2HmNtFTUXfRwCUuykpfTRHWM4qVrh1eR6juqzdYnOgc69jmsmtg9dtYWx10eBxxFBdYGtA9M7mJ5i_3XwabVgr5NFnyD-jGNGBiz0HM9Ec/s1600/IMG_0129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkkm6V3B59_kuAdUqtIUPZl5UC6b_46qXnj2HmNtFTUXfRwCUuykpfTRHWM4qVrh1eR6juqzdYnOgc69jmsmtg9dtYWx10eBxxFBdYGtA9M7mJ5i_3XwabVgr5NFnyD-jGNGBiz0HM9Ec/s640/IMG_0129.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faunagraphic</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJ210-LON23WecK6MxtGCF-LafMY4IkI5uQemNUh3Exm0VoPAWL1ybL58bIP95mtwZqixbBT05QsMpdjVP22voxzN05cp-WljIdbcQcPVo1e_hpSNf_0GZgPxyE3EXFBM_IsDmtxkVDA/s1600/IMG_0130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitJ210-LON23WecK6MxtGCF-LafMY4IkI5uQemNUh3Exm0VoPAWL1ybL58bIP95mtwZqixbBT05QsMpdjVP22voxzN05cp-WljIdbcQcPVo1e_hpSNf_0GZgPxyE3EXFBM_IsDmtxkVDA/s640/IMG_0130.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Richard Attenborough by Rocket 01</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a href="http://www.kidacne.com/blog/">KID ACNE</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.phlegmcomicnews.blogspot.co.uk/">PHLEGM</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.rocket01.co.uk/#!">ROCKET 01</a><br /><a href="http://florenceblanchard.com/"><br /></a><a href="http://florenceblanchard.com/"> FLORENCE BLANCHARD/ EMA</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.faunagraphic.co.uk/">FAUNAGRAPHIC </a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/D7606/395466227213600">D7606</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-71566305217357494882013-10-17T10:39:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.246-08:00THE CADBURY COLOUR PURPLE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large</div><br />Cadbury purple, less commonly known as Pantone 265c, has been on our collective visual radar for the past 100 years, ever since the Birmingham chocolate company switched the colour of its packaging in tribute to Queen Victoria's favourite colour. We're used to seeing it, ripping it, scrunching it and gifting it but how about wearing it?<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsdu6gBeRdnrXWRcTlJYXCDJBK9xitjPY9eyXOS6Xue5_dcal6geNWp6TkE_4rxvj5MqZfUiZSgccLRtZq1290tfaapglnoKKdVB4mhzMVirXupMKn3uYHXAPVzhWbqIVLAjqJA3wA4FA/s1600/BALE_RTW_SS14_0063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsdu6gBeRdnrXWRcTlJYXCDJBK9xitjPY9eyXOS6Xue5_dcal6geNWp6TkE_4rxvj5MqZfUiZSgccLRtZq1290tfaapglnoKKdVB4mhzMVirXupMKn3uYHXAPVzhWbqIVLAjqJA3wA4FA/s640/BALE_RTW_SS14_0063.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cadbury purple at Balenciaga (via catwalking.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pgriVav2Wb3cPfCfWnfWJh3accSLRiK8uS0VWCPhyphenhyphenOBOiRYCf0pv9WntHVTTeUpkxaxQJiFHMseamRgdUhEdOtowyfPTEMaHmWkgn4RiK2yfWLKAgQjw5QGFSa0KFPvmqSmMrHwOvs8/s1600/KANE_RTW_SS14_1092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pgriVav2Wb3cPfCfWnfWJh3accSLRiK8uS0VWCPhyphenhyphenOBOiRYCf0pv9WntHVTTeUpkxaxQJiFHMseamRgdUhEdOtowyfPTEMaHmWkgn4RiK2yfWLKAgQjw5QGFSa0KFPvmqSmMrHwOvs8/s640/KANE_RTW_SS14_1092.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lilac at Christopher Kane (via catwalking.com)</td></tr></tbody></table>At the latest round of SS14 shows, there was lots and lots of lilac. If anything's going to move us on from pink next summer then it will be a pretty light purple- lilac ball gown skirts, lilac sweatshirts, lilac denim, lilac anything and everything. But coinciding with Cadbury's long-running legal battle to secure copyright on its signature hue came a smattering of true deep dark purple outfits which made me think, very shallowly obviously, that I would really like to buy some purple clothes soon. Cadbury even sent a model down to LFW dressed in a Cadbury purple dress to promote their cause but still unfortunately lost their five year fight. Nevertheless, I still think that we will always associate the colour of Dairy Milk bars and Milk Tray boxes with Cadbury rather any random given confectioner who decides to jump on the purple bandwagon.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1H4kVdlwTlTBCsK2F7kbOiH9-y4l0jhnbiTMRyHmj2TJZftEBaj80adQQb9KXpcPIb3si7TD_qIXfEnjqr5VQN21BrANcboWKNycnMtc3ugHJiuJTl-FZSUfltuzvosfjvLPUqHSIN4/s1600/grand+budapest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1H4kVdlwTlTBCsK2F7kbOiH9-y4l0jhnbiTMRyHmj2TJZftEBaj80adQQb9KXpcPIb3si7TD_qIXfEnjqr5VQN21BrANcboWKNycnMtc3ugHJiuJTl-FZSUfltuzvosfjvLPUqHSIN4/s640/grand+budapest.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cadbury purple crops up in the new Wes Anderson (via itsnicethat.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPUJaCS9K2QsIq6isIvNqh-DzyeLmnZ6c8ueX56EweBm4YdK3sX-ZBQSrujROWNAwpBTf1L38AgGf4AAe-4jAds8R0hGmDC-kKgVWrXZNf6qRLTlvjmg-Gh_czSjMBoXt7pdG-cZx9FXA/s1600/maxmara.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPUJaCS9K2QsIq6isIvNqh-DzyeLmnZ6c8ueX56EweBm4YdK3sX-ZBQSrujROWNAwpBTf1L38AgGf4AAe-4jAds8R0hGmDC-kKgVWrXZNf6qRLTlvjmg-Gh_czSjMBoXt7pdG-cZx9FXA/s640/maxmara.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cadbury purple at MaxMara (via catwalking.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdmfKi5toN-mUKfuXOYaSlGcDXZ0MihNaAarq-B6p4U69uwSNyAN5l_TdDCV5DWNqrI1Y_e1ubQPcNXVNcsM_MY2Ztbo61OYcsoD07uaVxqPgX3lj7DDnXDpnxTX15V0Pq5s3jInFd0sk/s1600/JACO_RTW_SS14_0014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdmfKi5toN-mUKfuXOYaSlGcDXZ0MihNaAarq-B6p4U69uwSNyAN5l_TdDCV5DWNqrI1Y_e1ubQPcNXVNcsM_MY2Ztbo61OYcsoD07uaVxqPgX3lj7DDnXDpnxTX15V0Pq5s3jInFd0sk/s640/JACO_RTW_SS14_0014.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marc Jacobs uniform jackets for SS14 (via catwalking.com)</td></tr></tbody></table>Anyway, I was reminded of this new fashion <i>need</i> again this afternoon when I clicked through to the trailer of <i>The Grand Budapest Hotel</i>, Wes Anderson's latest offering. Lo and behold, the lead character Gustave H is a hotel manager and he, along with all the other members of staff at The Grand Budapest, wears Cadbury-coloured uniforms which also have a hint of the Marc Jacobs SS14 Victorian jacket about them. These are niche fashion observations I know but it never fails to amuse me how various cultural threads can chime together so that it seems like they might have been planned. The hotel is even this season's candy pink in case you're not ready to move on to lilac and purple yet! Now I know that that purple thing I want is a shiny-buttoned uniform jacket.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/2bTbW70umbQ" width="480"></iframe><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2TEYDf7jTw3xxdH_CW2cXPVD86wcV-1KeaK2EQxQYG8scFhoUdE77VzMwUHCdb57_Z4b5BtwiVULGtYzEDOwNNwoXtzyzDRHIZ7BWh-LxKXIh4aBwb932MoDbrSzWfLRbwX3KdL8aBqk/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2TEYDf7jTw3xxdH_CW2cXPVD86wcV-1KeaK2EQxQYG8scFhoUdE77VzMwUHCdb57_Z4b5BtwiVULGtYzEDOwNNwoXtzyzDRHIZ7BWh-LxKXIh4aBwb932MoDbrSzWfLRbwX3KdL8aBqk/s640/10.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Grand Budapest Hotel is Wes Anderson's new film (via itsnicethat.com)</td></tr></tbody></table>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-3838921176954867062013-10-11T10:24:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.345-08:0010 FABULOUS PHOTOS FROM FASHION MONTHPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />One of my favourite times of year, fashion-wise, is these weeks after fashion month when you're back at your desk drinking in the new season and planning everything which you're going to do with it- stories, trends, moods. It's a case of getting elbow deep in a huge pool of images, notes, reviews, social media posts to dissect everything which is going on. I would love to have the time to pull together a definitvie list of every single possible way we can now see a fashion show; maybe you sit front row, or perhaps you're crammed in at the back on your tiptoes, you might follow the action on Twitter, tune in to the brand's live stream, click "refresh" over and over on Style.com until the review is posted, make a Pinterest board or stumble across an image you like as you're flicking through a magazine six months later. It's quite mind-boggling. My new favourite post-fashion week way to see the shows is clicking through American Vogue's backstage imagery which is insanely beautiful and makes me feel as if I am seeing the shows via a fly on the wall wearing magically filtered glasses.<br /><br />The main photographer is Kevin Tachman, who also made an intelligent photo series called <a href="http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/overexposed-a-photographers-perspective-on-fashion-week-spring-2014/#">"Overexposed"</a> the other day which he called "an attempt to capture that sense of disorientation" which shows throw up. I like it. The Max Mara images- the headscarf lady is my absolute favourite- were taken by <a href="http://taylorjewell.com/">Taylor Jewell</a>, of <a href="http://fashionista.com/2013/08/voguestagram-hashtag-brings-out-instagrams-fashion-obsessed-animals/">Anna Wintour #voguestagram </a>fame while the Saint Laurent is by <a href="http://www.victoriawill.com/">Victoria Will</a>. Even if you were at the show, this photography adds a whole new dimension.<br /><br />All images via <a href="http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/backstage/">American Vogue</a><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZOPH8IJwNXW37OYdMTSRBrA44FVa2Q6oH1J8IEfQhlL95FEl0qjcdBk9k0t1AXRQwybzbGN-80CXgM3jOaC2VppxMyeWMnI0M-mkPaDca7HD-mfA3jFwx4vt1fVVlfZHVIa5bS83B-E/s1600/christian-dior-rtw-ss2014-backstage-05_155657744347.jpg_carousel_parties.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZOPH8IJwNXW37OYdMTSRBrA44FVa2Q6oH1J8IEfQhlL95FEl0qjcdBk9k0t1AXRQwybzbGN-80CXgM3jOaC2VppxMyeWMnI0M-mkPaDca7HD-mfA3jFwx4vt1fVVlfZHVIa5bS83B-E/s640/christian-dior-rtw-ss2014-backstage-05_155657744347.jpg_carousel_parties.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Dior</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBL3sPR7qWd-VwpQNFhU3fo-84QM2SfB7HN_smPZNKba2qO-SU0wo58ae7Qe6Uix-85o0sWjRPsJYcgQn0hatebROeqwsyoodCAihqsBUrRRsJ5dDC8T7J4qz70nccqbnXjp_B78vQqG0/s1600/BACKSTAGE+maxmara-rtw-ss2014-backstage-01_101047833713.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBL3sPR7qWd-VwpQNFhU3fo-84QM2SfB7HN_smPZNKba2qO-SU0wo58ae7Qe6Uix-85o0sWjRPsJYcgQn0hatebROeqwsyoodCAihqsBUrRRsJ5dDC8T7J4qz70nccqbnXjp_B78vQqG0/s640/BACKSTAGE+maxmara-rtw-ss2014-backstage-01_101047833713.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Max Mara</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTrKHSuqPSKq_K2abpw-Jhh1mB0CRlkCDj8_DvHaNqWcAHC15w4R3JQnerHzE4fPxLZ53hgsF1_2sOOqoYfhfm9kKvioc_9O0xrViBdYC4emw5u9mI3bme1fT5J-4nQs0maOWAB3VcMTM/s1600/BACKSTAGEmaxmara-rtw-ss2014-backstage-13_101128732118.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTrKHSuqPSKq_K2abpw-Jhh1mB0CRlkCDj8_DvHaNqWcAHC15w4R3JQnerHzE4fPxLZ53hgsF1_2sOOqoYfhfm9kKvioc_9O0xrViBdYC4emw5u9mI3bme1fT5J-4nQs0maOWAB3VcMTM/s640/BACKSTAGEmaxmara-rtw-ss2014-backstage-13_101128732118.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Max Mara</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7s9mFQJR2PmRHG3oXXXXCye8-mMYUHQCNR_CXBkt0NNKo0JLE48NwFywp9p4dpI8j7reWxO6nL5QjKuc02-vfuMe2k06k_4dj-eH-0EK44clelF03cTU86RKf-ony-IOEanHkarI1yI/s1600/dries-van-noten-rtw-ss2014-backstage-01_142651146911.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7s9mFQJR2PmRHG3oXXXXCye8-mMYUHQCNR_CXBkt0NNKo0JLE48NwFywp9p4dpI8j7reWxO6nL5QjKuc02-vfuMe2k06k_4dj-eH-0EK44clelF03cTU86RKf-ony-IOEanHkarI1yI/s640/dries-van-noten-rtw-ss2014-backstage-01_142651146911.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Dries van Noten</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51Gtl0SH7LtTNj7V63QXQQb5R4OxoeCfP_zJllScK7IRjy2XWpudTURWvcPppaFheuKUDxECn7g3aP7zeoSJ-uG_kD1HJVV5T0DyFqCa2KGaDGWPaz5vWi333WM4B-4MxaiW8K8TleU4/s1600/christopher-kane-rtw-ss2014-backstage-08_142054549392.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh51Gtl0SH7LtTNj7V63QXQQb5R4OxoeCfP_zJllScK7IRjy2XWpudTURWvcPppaFheuKUDxECn7g3aP7zeoSJ-uG_kD1HJVV5T0DyFqCa2KGaDGWPaz5vWi333WM4B-4MxaiW8K8TleU4/s640/christopher-kane-rtw-ss2014-backstage-08_142054549392.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Christopher Kane</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpN4dQVVzFcIB0UUqK96WuWwZ5-NEmxUBkE18zlsKsSU5IybT8kxFemLTZS1AC68jHVaAVMNrSXobG4n9bHj9DD08e8oxWADxXiKdNKwGmubmjBNqxD-yBZ9-jwphh-GPdqfFNAzXFrkQ/s1600/givenchy-rtw-ss2014-backstage-01_204412376112.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpN4dQVVzFcIB0UUqK96WuWwZ5-NEmxUBkE18zlsKsSU5IybT8kxFemLTZS1AC68jHVaAVMNrSXobG4n9bHj9DD08e8oxWADxXiKdNKwGmubmjBNqxD-yBZ9-jwphh-GPdqfFNAzXFrkQ/s640/givenchy-rtw-ss2014-backstage-01_204412376112.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Givenchy</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39iSIsZwQf-vRbKfZxgGgKG8QXrhRVYvTWw-1W5Ygt_PqMxCwUJwho3IFnysiOlThB3W5lEtl44ydof_qchJ9u719Cbh7gStsN-tzq2Fi5-yvVok2hR76gqDCDd-PbFE194UWLDZit-s/s1600/givenchy-rtw-ss2014-backstage-12_204421950894.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39iSIsZwQf-vRbKfZxgGgKG8QXrhRVYvTWw-1W5Ygt_PqMxCwUJwho3IFnysiOlThB3W5lEtl44ydof_qchJ9u719Cbh7gStsN-tzq2Fi5-yvVok2hR76gqDCDd-PbFE194UWLDZit-s/s640/givenchy-rtw-ss2014-backstage-12_204421950894.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Givenchy</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv4gaaufotdIvlkfDZHhdHqTWiHC9Vz3CcafcdTsflgh4nh07413JCw0tTA3j4HZmQV3vJmG4Yr_xGzBhxoSmXDh-pLUAoJ4VvNxPL5bvAQeynAGotDbuinB-hx3KH9lB3j68VdM3_ogs/s1600/saint-laurent-rtw-ss2014-backstage-11_195355240892.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv4gaaufotdIvlkfDZHhdHqTWiHC9Vz3CcafcdTsflgh4nh07413JCw0tTA3j4HZmQV3vJmG4Yr_xGzBhxoSmXDh-pLUAoJ4VvNxPL5bvAQeynAGotDbuinB-hx3KH9lB3j68VdM3_ogs/s640/saint-laurent-rtw-ss2014-backstage-11_195355240892.jpg_carousel_parties.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Saint Laurent</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_hFDWXw8DG2962JqrKkUs5h35JeKUxMNe0wA3fA5XeZEptfh26NcpvJ_2hxfxkQGitAR6IO3oHPzur_cUfAa3-fODcBaFcptNMmVkuVU5mh3_Rvg5UcH5CABbJX7dSEHLioKXEMTD5E/s1600/louis-vuitton-rtw-ss2014-backstage-07_123933145607.jpg_carousel_parties.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_hFDWXw8DG2962JqrKkUs5h35JeKUxMNe0wA3fA5XeZEptfh26NcpvJ_2hxfxkQGitAR6IO3oHPzur_cUfAa3-fODcBaFcptNMmVkuVU5mh3_Rvg5UcH5CABbJX7dSEHLioKXEMTD5E/s640/louis-vuitton-rtw-ss2014-backstage-07_123933145607.jpg_carousel_parties.jpeg" width="604" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Louis Vuitton</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxrBObRrlZlkSTJmv3xljMnguftEN6_ySer-kJnRqP84pHRMstLS9wZvQwjfuE1P5Qf3SczLn4R0LnEUoyj1Ju05SMY-IXOU3HiDMtsrxld4TIjbi9vW3FuJQkWHqWcseoltTe1VHtUNc/s1600/louis-vuitton-rtw-ss2014-backstage-17_123940316237.jpg_carousel_parties.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxrBObRrlZlkSTJmv3xljMnguftEN6_ySer-kJnRqP84pHRMstLS9wZvQwjfuE1P5Qf3SczLn4R0LnEUoyj1Ju05SMY-IXOU3HiDMtsrxld4TIjbi9vW3FuJQkWHqWcseoltTe1VHtUNc/s640/louis-vuitton-rtw-ss2014-backstage-17_123940316237.jpg_carousel_parties.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Louis Vuitton</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-39404637729332288472013-10-07T10:40:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.438-08:00WHEN I GROW UP...Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />Are you still allowed to think that way at 25? I suppose that's already "grown-up" age really and certainly old enough to know that I will never, never be a ballerina- my default answer to the "what do you want to be when you grow up?' question. They say Darcey Bussell was unfathomably old when she took up ballet but actually she was 13 and already an accomplished dancer. Sigh. Nevertheless, the fact my ballerina dreams will never realistically go beyond the occasional barre class doesn't mean I can't pretend does it? This is why I have several tutu skirts in my wardrobe, the most recent being a Topshop dress which required absolutely zero um-ing and ah-ing and a few of them snatched from the wardrobes of friends when they were clearing out post- grade 8 exams and were bored stiff of ballerina garb. I never got beyond my first class, aged 4, and was completely disgusted by the thought of being a graceful Margot Fonteyn type until a complete u-turn during my teens. Ever since, what I wouldn't give for a day of being able to go <i>en pointe </i>at the Royal Opera House.<br /><br />I know I'm not the only one, as evidenced by the ever present gaggle of tourists who congregate at the Repetto shop just off Place Vendome in Paris, having their photo taken outside the always beautifully decorated windows while dangling their bags of ballerinas. I haven't had time to go in for ages but always look wistfully at the ballet slippers in every size and colour, wrapover cardigans and delicate net tutus and wish I had some need for them. What I didn't properly realise is that <a href="http://www.repetto.com/uk/the-wardrobe/ready-to-wear-lookbook-1.html">Repetto</a> <i>does </i>cater to dreamy types like me with <a href="http://www.repetto.com/uk/the-wardrobe/ready-to-wear-lookbook-1.html">their ready-to-wear collection which has just become available online</a> in the UK. Designed by Emilie Luc-Duc, formerly at Dior Girl and Vanessa Bruno, there are beautiful jumpers which echo the pretty shapes worn by dancers during practise and skirts which are perfectly poised between dress-up and wearable. At way for us ballet-dreaming grown-ups to dress the part, even if we cannot dance it.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-x13Wm_uv_f4j6PoEAlq7Q2215uwJt_Wpr3aecCG7sIUXLioV2zqCNVPd5zFUf-3p9gRwGVdbn-mW9EUki2ck6AaHu56qnamFDhKqPH0JUn822udbTNRWvVOeJJMM34eP1pLSYxLgOc/s1600/Repetto+22+juin+5059web.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-x13Wm_uv_f4j6PoEAlq7Q2215uwJt_Wpr3aecCG7sIUXLioV2zqCNVPd5zFUf-3p9gRwGVdbn-mW9EUki2ck6AaHu56qnamFDhKqPH0JUn822udbTNRWvVOeJJMM34eP1pLSYxLgOc/s640/Repetto+22+juin+5059web.jpeg" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGmUxEF8HXSusTqaEGlSw4n-zL6xET5zYtzyiDsI-S3xCxpV11R__nAgSMwvtvxO1lybcxgaLMCLQJzifbYyfpYUwsyayFJvuTt7MgvxHsSCV0Zj3wycT8pGjxIPy0ZKryDNL9RY_ARWQ/s1600/Repetto+22+juin+5168web.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGmUxEF8HXSusTqaEGlSw4n-zL6xET5zYtzyiDsI-S3xCxpV11R__nAgSMwvtvxO1lybcxgaLMCLQJzifbYyfpYUwsyayFJvuTt7MgvxHsSCV0Zj3wycT8pGjxIPy0ZKryDNL9RY_ARWQ/s640/Repetto+22+juin+5168web.jpeg" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-FjM84xbyUEJcTmR3qmqun9eZDC0M1nnFNemdD9bVvcA7tpXO1NVkPCSlmr7IJvebAq7noqxWwQFhBpvcmh8ZxYEKZSQPlomHeZZwLec64safVsahwBkI_5RA0ttSGBWdyFyiLMV1-ac/s1600/Repetto+22+juin+4967web.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-FjM84xbyUEJcTmR3qmqun9eZDC0M1nnFNemdD9bVvcA7tpXO1NVkPCSlmr7IJvebAq7noqxWwQFhBpvcmh8ZxYEKZSQPlomHeZZwLec64safVsahwBkI_5RA0ttSGBWdyFyiLMV1-ac/s640/Repetto+22+juin+4967web.jpeg" width="476" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxttpC_h_DqzABuPkpLNXHK6gArtVgZl5f0-UQLvATiajmRvAW2KKUUkkVhosDSA5j0E-upX8sI8J1brX45VN6cxx4bNQFd5FgDk6kjL6X5mbWEb6LfpcLfq8XDEVhPSxmmDQAyJvhBdM/s1600/Repetto+22+juin+5339web.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxttpC_h_DqzABuPkpLNXHK6gArtVgZl5f0-UQLvATiajmRvAW2KKUUkkVhosDSA5j0E-upX8sI8J1brX45VN6cxx4bNQFd5FgDk6kjL6X5mbWEb6LfpcLfq8XDEVhPSxmmDQAyJvhBdM/s640/Repetto+22+juin+5339web.jpeg" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1gJPl4DP5qwsdefQdeYw3TpmkenKFheauZQ5rchvDzBlM7xE4Y3M9gsYKHlyoIOrlNxQWks4kEZtrwPfJjUbBMfTDfs3UPHUD5ybW_imKBNMimux0_aHuuXBZzkNC-q-Y_SpErwsRXl4/s1600/Repetto+22+juin+5500web.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1gJPl4DP5qwsdefQdeYw3TpmkenKFheauZQ5rchvDzBlM7xE4Y3M9gsYKHlyoIOrlNxQWks4kEZtrwPfJjUbBMfTDfs3UPHUD5ybW_imKBNMimux0_aHuuXBZzkNC-q-Y_SpErwsRXl4/s640/Repetto+22+juin+5500web.jpeg" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-82449314989519597672013-10-03T10:14:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.528-08:00A NEW COAT CONCEPT FROM TOOGOOD<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large</div><br />I read this morning that people employed in farming, fishing and forestry are the happiest. If you work in the media, you are less happy than quite a lot of other professions, apparently. Oh dear. While this news is a bit depressing in itself, it does shine a light on why Erica and Faye <a href="http://t-o-o-g-o-o-d.com/">Toogood</a> might have struck on the idea to 'pay tribute' to eight different trades with their new collection of coats, which launched during Paris fashion week. Admittedly, it's rare that one goes to PFW and ends up having a conversation about the particular details a bee keeper might require from their outerwear.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tQShKFn2tTNHtVk2KWt_IgZgYUEYxYKR0mEoNsnnCqBC9SqNbcIIxe5NIdpnbhxNgcG_PIAZNfnfkUESg3jlxqY247_MN8MrbhTv68jDk4XZ1mZPc6zzxmgSvIwhEYqq6MHgo7-dFEY/s1600/Toogood_Thechemist_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tQShKFn2tTNHtVk2KWt_IgZgYUEYxYKR0mEoNsnnCqBC9SqNbcIIxe5NIdpnbhxNgcG_PIAZNfnfkUESg3jlxqY247_MN8MrbhTv68jDk4XZ1mZPc6zzxmgSvIwhEYqq6MHgo7-dFEY/s640/Toogood_Thechemist_7.jpg" width="496" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Chemist coat</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVyvGjVjeN1yXV_JBOKiMykaNOxiMy1VDurMfDbOU2-MLgRPV4QhV1gPu2bmrQoVbJRb34hyphenhyphenxY3Ge-6GLljcSx9Y324pkqOykmiWtCcKyX8ViO7bxgkKzCzIjrwdxz1752MNvDRewfIc/s1600/IMG_5839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVyvGjVjeN1yXV_JBOKiMykaNOxiMy1VDurMfDbOU2-MLgRPV4QhV1gPu2bmrQoVbJRb34hyphenhyphenxY3Ge-6GLljcSx9Y324pkqOykmiWtCcKyX8ViO7bxgkKzCzIjrwdxz1752MNvDRewfIc/s640/IMG_5839.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Toogood passport</td></tr></tbody></table>You may already know the work of <a href="http://www.fayetoogood.com/">Faye Toogood</a>. She's a furniture and object designer whose <a href="http://www.studiotoogood.com/about">studio</a> has collaborated with the likes of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony/ Kenzo fame and Phillip Lim. She teamed up with her pattern cutter sister, Erica, about a year ago to work on the Toogood coats collection. As with all great fashion concepts, there's a lot of theory backed up by thoughtful details. For example, each coat comes with its very own "passport". A label which details who your coat was designed and made by and who sold it. The idea is that you then add your own details as a constant reminder of the trajectory which each coat has taken. "There is no hierarchy here," comments Erica, "we wanted to create a feeling of transparency about the process of making a coat."<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisRGwo4OHJ5xevzeJGkUyJe4y_nm10ErVY-UH-hImVD1tIO_SllaMfARHokidPNK62TJMswn9jT45n8q52_zutMFusxp5B2oWgGJW_CE27ir8X4Yjco6KPhBfU0P1VdRDDhoG0fH1Oy9k/s1600/IMG_5840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisRGwo4OHJ5xevzeJGkUyJe4y_nm10ErVY-UH-hImVD1tIO_SllaMfARHokidPNK62TJMswn9jT45n8q52_zutMFusxp5B2oWgGJW_CE27ir8X4Yjco6KPhBfU0P1VdRDDhoG0fH1Oy9k/s640/IMG_5840.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOJp1YiAok4lor0a8SGl1gEKmyKsoQK80Qm-CifFQvm555kPlzP2-YZN6tNsZBXZbHrZrwB_WjdqaQ2gKKmLnoblwCEkc3pKAoovUfTJMNEE9zFl9MSqXZnPMBON-GHN5HtOg24pSu8M/s1600/IMG_5841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOJp1YiAok4lor0a8SGl1gEKmyKsoQK80Qm-CifFQvm555kPlzP2-YZN6tNsZBXZbHrZrwB_WjdqaQ2gKKmLnoblwCEkc3pKAoovUfTJMNEE9zFl9MSqXZnPMBON-GHN5HtOg24pSu8M/s640/IMG_5841.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYo1eJtmhRNA_QZEp0uoPLkpeCOQeAvTZnL8S3tKV4oF2g0VoVOoFEogWgMAlu3JSDYnhdEwdXQQSlj3zXA7H1ndRx-We4LHmpqNgp24fVmNu-vYM1Xrp4Bi5kunCQUf21ZbpeiAOvdjs/s1600/IMG_5844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYo1eJtmhRNA_QZEp0uoPLkpeCOQeAvTZnL8S3tKV4oF2g0VoVOoFEogWgMAlu3JSDYnhdEwdXQQSlj3zXA7H1ndRx-We4LHmpqNgp24fVmNu-vYM1Xrp4Bi5kunCQUf21ZbpeiAOvdjs/s640/IMG_5844.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8HjVvy4nNzuS_yf6_JKiDwKWy4keIa9Kk5a2Xs2x3wrGUtJ3krDL71FlG_SkTXTw9HvIBfdVFfNn8tNpRd_7NHe__FPyWDZWMW78FHUGP7TCuTXOdJknpPD6mMorv42EA8nczLWBPvs/s1600/IMG_5847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8HjVvy4nNzuS_yf6_JKiDwKWy4keIa9Kk5a2Xs2x3wrGUtJ3krDL71FlG_SkTXTw9HvIBfdVFfNn8tNpRd_7NHe__FPyWDZWMW78FHUGP7TCuTXOdJknpPD6mMorv42EA8nczLWBPvs/s640/IMG_5847.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />Each unisex coat comes in 6 sizes and is handmade in London. Faye does the design while Erica deals with bringing them to life by cutting innovative patterns which reflect how each worker's coat might have been worn over time, see the deep pockets on The Chemist. For The Courier, a fitted waistcoat with short cape, there were 17 toiles made before the fit was <i>just</i> right. The sisters mimic the movements of each worker to show me why certain details have been included, like the curved seams on the sleeves of The Mechanic or the slits on the cuffs of The Roadsweeper. The fabrications are like nothing I've ever seen before which makes trying on these coats a properly novel experience. Imagine a shell-like back created from melted bin bags, the bumpy texture of a baked latex print or the super-shiny and squeaky effect of sprayed and splattered rubber, a job which the sisters commissioned a guy who usually paints cars to complete. The coats are as hard-wearing as their names suggest too, cut from rot resistant canvas. It all sounds terribly tough and rough and ready but some of these shapes are akin to an elegant opera coat or a chic biker, in many ways. The ultimate aim, of course, is that you make it your own. Faye insists, 'we want our coats to look and feel just as beautiful on a 60 year-old man as they do on a 25 year-old girl'.<br /><br />THE COATS<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibf3Rjw1nvqoFGoltW0AdQUqdzqWmeAUl4WV8rrzBEhv83a4fljNDEIhUVT2CNkyXAxkElPyInwThQgbh_aETwMhD2TQboZv-5E19lB8t0UFOY1_Uf1tpsrpZtBe3M4lj_gHgC97SS-xo/s1600/Toogood_Thebeekeeper_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibf3Rjw1nvqoFGoltW0AdQUqdzqWmeAUl4WV8rrzBEhv83a4fljNDEIhUVT2CNkyXAxkElPyInwThQgbh_aETwMhD2TQboZv-5E19lB8t0UFOY1_Uf1tpsrpZtBe3M4lj_gHgC97SS-xo/s640/Toogood_Thebeekeeper_1.jpg" width="486" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Beekeeper</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgw2vg6nKQRgVfoJHln8vB2_3GnPbi0kceVUWq3wj-m3ZyHTx6sW2Farg4z7DctulzsjForOUpYMgxtVkrcWPgEcRSiaW91s77yiNK90JokeVI55Ol8NIZMOfhB5H9FMpJOky6oEz3ZEY/s1600/Toogood_Thecourier_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgw2vg6nKQRgVfoJHln8vB2_3GnPbi0kceVUWq3wj-m3ZyHTx6sW2Farg4z7DctulzsjForOUpYMgxtVkrcWPgEcRSiaW91s77yiNK90JokeVI55Ol8NIZMOfhB5H9FMpJOky6oEz3ZEY/s640/Toogood_Thecourier_1.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Courier coat</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMo1Vua71j95xWZfP3P00gTK3XjZ54EwBULeNwCKTFdY1_rtxCQuadVtoXfka8bge7pNuKz-JovOOUO1QtCy8sHdYhc46n0P10CbKa-gVatbQbyyifEsZoqf14ZzOvIJCXuQSrKE8NMLc/s1600/Toogood_Themilkman_8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMo1Vua71j95xWZfP3P00gTK3XjZ54EwBULeNwCKTFdY1_rtxCQuadVtoXfka8bge7pNuKz-JovOOUO1QtCy8sHdYhc46n0P10CbKa-gVatbQbyyifEsZoqf14ZzOvIJCXuQSrKE8NMLc/s640/Toogood_Themilkman_8.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Milkman</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQRYy2O8ar3_T6IhCCwgXIgJFoa39jWEDy8KmeaCCFBKmW5tu8-yRCw-2eYP90HeSMT7HWSkaSrdcRZJgeFAcuAm947-SZlStWW7PR8WkK8TRU7rAo_xmLrJn3jCq_gmaDnVCB30Y2rY/s1600/Toogood_Theoilrigger_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQRYy2O8ar3_T6IhCCwgXIgJFoa39jWEDy8KmeaCCFBKmW5tu8-yRCw-2eYP90HeSMT7HWSkaSrdcRZJgeFAcuAm947-SZlStWW7PR8WkK8TRU7rAo_xmLrJn3jCq_gmaDnVCB30Y2rY/s640/Toogood_Theoilrigger_1.jpg" width="500" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Oilrigger</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79gRH2Uz2bEoWU2d2TLeaP0c2q0Ws-uIuPiVcg0xsRjFGyYRuGJ6u1MNbF69eq9e2vVCzlIPxCHWcHlMX-X9HW5mNWR3QTZk-p1T53shMCd7P-6fERYIXd2MNmn81hgsu-jWLgLGueOg/s1600/Toogood_Theroadsweeper_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79gRH2Uz2bEoWU2d2TLeaP0c2q0Ws-uIuPiVcg0xsRjFGyYRuGJ6u1MNbF69eq9e2vVCzlIPxCHWcHlMX-X9HW5mNWR3QTZk-p1T53shMCd7P-6fERYIXd2MNmn81hgsu-jWLgLGueOg/s640/Toogood_Theroadsweeper_3.jpg" width="474" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Roadsweeper</td></tr></tbody></table>THE TOOGOOD MANIFESTO<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FEcJ0nOkprRrmt7mTIgHviUSMT053x61qSfQEViv7Gz1f7Y-k4d20US8qEdNNVQvcxuU9I4joRFS99ie-9ch3NCR7xvWXikqUzvlTg_g1XCXoema6HhE1Gyxekp4hxSkz5VClMi1dQQ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-10-03+at+12.53.26.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FEcJ0nOkprRrmt7mTIgHviUSMT053x61qSfQEViv7Gz1f7Y-k4d20US8qEdNNVQvcxuU9I4joRFS99ie-9ch3NCR7xvWXikqUzvlTg_g1XCXoema6HhE1Gyxekp4hxSkz5VClMi1dQQ/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-10-03+at+12.53.26.png" width="546" /></a></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-34224781938338059462013-09-30T15:15:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.624-08:00DISPATCHES FROM THE SHOWROOM: COMME DES GARCONSPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />One of the many benefits of flitting to Paris during fashion week is that even if you don't get there in time for a particular show, or if you are too low down the fashion food chain to be awarded a ticket, then you can still get up close with the clothes which are shaping up the forthcoming season with a visit to the showroom. In many cases, you could argue that these are even better places than a catwalk show to understand the shapes, the colours and the fabrics.<br /><br />And so it was that today I stopped off at Comme des Garcons' home on Place Vendome. Having diligently studied the show reviews in advance, I was fully mentally prepped for the fact that Rei Kawakubo's approach to SS14 was mostly about forgetting that she was designing clothes. She apparently had no ideas for clothes and so sought to create a kind of art installation centred around the body. The ultimate expression, perhaps, of the SS14 mega-trend for art? Anyway, the main point of this Comme des Garcons collection was probably that it was viewed in the complementary space of a show venue where each outfit had its very own soundtrack and, like an art gallery, the light and sound were under complete control. The showroom, by contrast, is a bustling room full of busy buyers and sales agents closing deals on taking these apparently non-clothes (or more truthfully, their more commercial counterparts) into stores across the world. It's the place where that vital link from catwalk to shopfloor is really made.<br /><br />I might not have been able to imbibe Kawkubo's entire seasonal ethos but it was super interesting to experience the show pieces laid out neatly on tables and displayed clothes-like (not to sound churlish) on mannequins. Many of the dresses you see in my tumble of pictures below are made in a defiantly non-fashion fabric which I have been trying to fathom all day; it's something like a jay-cloth, very polyester-ish and very, very similar to the hydrophobic sort of thing which might make-up a mattress protector or lining for something around the house. One thing's for sure, it's probably never been pleated, stuffed and stitched in Comme way before. Equally fascinating was the footwear which was entirely sole-less so that really they were only footwear covers- these came as brightly coloured bootees and childlike, painted lace-ups.<br /><br />A new reason to look forward to next Spring... seeing how this is going to translate for street style stars and on the floor at Dover Street Market A.K.A how will non-clothes become fashion?<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D6jPGnQ3trr_JWfrgE2B9Enzt2Qf0mobUFch6ls586WL7-EnvJFm1HXVoO6Bt1x1dpbdFV_UxCgkjyt7ALuDfvJcwWmjEsUDHinvv5dm8MYvV0dbpSgQllRyn2soaz6aYQDNDD6JKmo/s1600/IMG_0801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D6jPGnQ3trr_JWfrgE2B9Enzt2Qf0mobUFch6ls586WL7-EnvJFm1HXVoO6Bt1x1dpbdFV_UxCgkjyt7ALuDfvJcwWmjEsUDHinvv5dm8MYvV0dbpSgQllRyn2soaz6aYQDNDD6JKmo/s640/IMG_0801.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNEeVMXTdCouNP-VYUzLU4qSFHpgF84P_OaXAbQancPeiMxdccBoo-BG1rdgGV1sjPurXbkdOXoK3atFzf-CKPd86Tc5fkLPr9OyZ9_Ox5MWflSnMtvTSZLbfVD0vU-kdRJYGpMA1wumU/s640/IMG_0814.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-53854069575099786622013-09-25T10:05:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.717-08:00FASHION REFERENCE OF THE DAY: MOPSPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhCzcBDRutE6HxsE4-067xKN0xD4HnaTMWM_i6rV7mYFLSros4umagoBNYI-1CeVxlT-j98s3aERGeJUUU6m_LhH89GK5A9MBNOFo_vBYp_CafQWSd3wNimrfPC2_b6i3pF7d3hnSdNc/s1600/Vileda+Super+Mop+Head.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhCzcBDRutE6HxsE4-067xKN0xD4HnaTMWM_i6rV7mYFLSros4umagoBNYI-1CeVxlT-j98s3aERGeJUUU6m_LhH89GK5A9MBNOFo_vBYp_CafQWSd3wNimrfPC2_b6i3pF7d3hnSdNc/s400/Vileda+Super+Mop+Head.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vileda supermops. In fashion?</td></tr></tbody></table>"Humdrum domestic world of wipe-clean tablecloths, abandoned takeaway boxes and vileda supermops" read J.W Anderson's SS14 press release. Those references seemed so singular that surely no other designer could match them? A quick flick through the latest pictures from Paris shows that this mop reference is alive and well however. On the Rochas catwalk this afternoon, Marco Zanini showed shoes which would easily double as cleaning implements, as observed by Eric Wilson.<br /><br /><br /><div class="stream-item-header" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px;"><a class="account-group js-account-group js-action-profile js-user-profile-link js-nav" data-user-id="186454150" href="https://twitter.com/EricWilsonNYT" style="color: #999999; text-decoration: none;"><strong class="fullname js-action-profile-name show-popup-with-id" style="color: #333333;">Eric Wilson</strong> <span class="username js-action-profile-name" style="direction: ltr; font-size: 12px; unicode-bidi: embed;"><s style="color: #bbbbbb; text-decoration: none;">@</s><b>EricWilsonNYT</b></span></a><small class="time" style="color: #bbbbbb; float: right; font-size: 12px; margin-top: 1px; position: relative;"><a class="tweet-timestamp js-permalink js-nav" href="https://twitter.com/EricWilsonNYT/status/382893772104663040" style="color: #999999; text-decoration: none;" title="4:46 PM - 25 Sep 13">33m</a></small></div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;">These shoes are like Swiffers for your feet. At <strong>Rochas</strong>. </div><div class="js-tweet-text tweet-text" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; white-space: pre-wrap; word-wrap: break-word;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiabyol3S_WlfUzGXndVBQmAcUH_KuTj6ffS8Jxf9teSoLbXauk6ZhEimzd48R2imeBOZA-Az2L0T2waNLehIS40ms_-9mz7vhD4mK2MCHZT1rDHGgDe3UWEzom_BUCJGXtxHS9mhzdSDA/s1600/BVBP22RCIAAFZgL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiabyol3S_WlfUzGXndVBQmAcUH_KuTj6ffS8Jxf9teSoLbXauk6ZhEimzd48R2imeBOZA-Az2L0T2waNLehIS40ms_-9mz7vhD4mK2MCHZT1rDHGgDe3UWEzom_BUCJGXtxHS9mhzdSDA/s640/BVBP22RCIAAFZgL.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rochas mop shoes (image via <a href="https://twitter.com/EricWilsonNYT">@ericwilsonNYT</a>)</td></tr></tbody></table>Are we entering a new functional era of fashion? I, for one, am looking forward to seeing an outfit entirely fashioned from mops at some point very soon. A challenge for the DIY-ers and customisers amongst you. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZcjaMvEPn8Zhkl9CajJAVL6ij9_lNBVkZzWTvv9be7vdkEVqxlysaljVTdThSe1zftM-DmFfmzHkBAecF99vgxszCmUN34RPIpZ5pQdpEMqlKeP-YQQFetItqE_kushfAuTIx8lEMO0/s1600/AND_2190.450x675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZcjaMvEPn8Zhkl9CajJAVL6ij9_lNBVkZzWTvv9be7vdkEVqxlysaljVTdThSe1zftM-DmFfmzHkBAecF99vgxszCmUN34RPIpZ5pQdpEMqlKeP-YQQFetItqE_kushfAuTIx8lEMO0/s640/AND_2190.450x675.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">J.W Anderson SS14</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYkr0myH0NYR8jbtahxfeopEsgQsCt5HE1FELuHefvjpGN2V_njFogQ4qiKzMTSKEMYPZbvBcRT3sYXJiIn1AWtqmxJF5bfx16OKxPW5LXD83wSU33Z7ZGH4C4G2U0q3TfnH1hPhOK5s/s1600/ROC_1111.450x675.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYkr0myH0NYR8jbtahxfeopEsgQsCt5HE1FELuHefvjpGN2V_njFogQ4qiKzMTSKEMYPZbvBcRT3sYXJiIn1AWtqmxJF5bfx16OKxPW5LXD83wSU33Z7ZGH4C4G2U0q3TfnH1hPhOK5s/s640/ROC_1111.450x675.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wipe-clean plus mop feet at Rochas SS14 (via style.com)</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCWck9tBqdytySTcUHYbtALob8jANo0GI5Iugn2q4ecTUD6N_4dlUUv77hKhmEk3MQi3MJXbkxJ3q4ab-UoQUccOXG0XbBOrDwpQ7GWsDJmWRsPOvBT1yV9ZbElGWMySlWWhXnJz1p2M/s1600/spring_cleaning_tips_dust_swiffer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCWck9tBqdytySTcUHYbtALob8jANo0GI5Iugn2q4ecTUD6N_4dlUUv77hKhmEk3MQi3MJXbkxJ3q4ab-UoQUccOXG0XbBOrDwpQ7GWsDJmWRsPOvBT1yV9ZbElGWMySlWWhXnJz1p2M/s640/spring_cleaning_tips_dust_swiffer.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wearable Swiffers </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-70861645136716258612013-09-20T09:17:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.812-08:00SS14: STREET ART AT PRADAPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />Art has, as ever, played an important role in the Spring/ Summer collections so far; from Roksanda Ilincic's Brazilian neo-concretists to Gucci's Erté illustrations. But none have been quite so brazen as Mrs Prada who yesterday commissioned six artists from around the world to create huge murals for her show space and then transposed the essence of their work- "the multiplicity of guises that women assume in the course of a day, or a lifetime"- onto skirts, dresses and coats to become part of her Spring collection. As Sarah Mower points out in <a href="http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/spring-2014-rtw/prada/review/">her review for Vogue</a>, it is quite impossible to see the scale and drama of Prada's project via the runway images alone. Very kindly, Prada sent through a comprehensive booklet with details of each artist and the work they produced for the show.<br /><br />The essay which begins the booklet sets out the thinking behind this project which seems to have been born not just out of Prada's feminist message, but also from a wish to concentrate very much on the idea human-human interaction, not via technology from multiple locations but from being physically near one another. It's an idea which sort of goes against the grain of the way so many shows are now conceived, with maximum shareability and digital involvement at the forefront; "In many ways, this projects contradicts the prevailing cultural condition of disembodied, networked communication. There is a creative energy that can only result when everyone is physically working together in one space".<br /><br />A final, fickle note before the tumble of gorgeous art begins. This might be street art taken right off the street and into a space where only select people could see it for real and then onto clothes which most of us will never afford. But, how incredible will this street art look when it finally becomes street style?<br /><br />MILES "<a href="http://elmac.net/">EL MAC</a>" GREGOR<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNhJ1lMim9yhXvwaJx3PQSv2ZQvB6SyrT3v04Ppx8I2_r1XJTGmKVVS0X15HvOWBUYDaQ71Kj6JnNpxpUVYgT5Tl5IkWFZu6jYhFbPcEDiT14hAFFGc6wG31xLF8ZQS80dXIpnvSuqwo/s1600/Screen+Shot+2013-09-20+at+16.45.00.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNhJ1lMim9yhXvwaJx3PQSv2ZQvB6SyrT3v04Ppx8I2_r1XJTGmKVVS0X15HvOWBUYDaQ71Kj6JnNpxpUVYgT5Tl5IkWFZu6jYhFbPcEDiT14hAFFGc6wG31xLF8ZQS80dXIpnvSuqwo/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-09-20+at+16.45.00.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a 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mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-ansi-language:EN-US;} </style><![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--><!--EndFragment-->Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-58151971143694792262013-09-15T15:09:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:45.911-08:00GET A HEAD'S UP ON HUISHAN ZHANG SS14Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />"Whatever I do is already Chinese, because I'm a Chinese designer" points out Huishan Zhang, fresh off the plane from Shanghai and gearing up to show his SS14 collection at London Fashion Week today. It's a good point, because there is lots of talk about Zhang being at the forefront of a new generation of designers from the East bringing their designs to a Western customer. Zhang does have a big studio in China and manufactures with specialist factories with whom he has built up a relationship but he is by no means limited to his native country when it comes to how he imagines his clothes will come to life; "I think about this elegant nomad who will go to an event in New York then pop her dress in a bag and head to London where she'll slip back into it again." What a glamourous, yet probably quite realistic, vision especially for a designers who describes their work as "couture-like ready-to-wear".<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfuakKI0d3kXfDtu0YjR30NGbBDkdwMtWn_NaAUj5d0kROgvjfXuQvzYg266UNQ3lzYEmRLwQ458Uup_avrYIeiOHE2lohgu6WqMpUyWE79PXCSLKQFGCMlqXhnkNox7gN_nKzy9dbrY/s1600/P1180091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfuakKI0d3kXfDtu0YjR30NGbBDkdwMtWn_NaAUj5d0kROgvjfXuQvzYg266UNQ3lzYEmRLwQ458Uup_avrYIeiOHE2lohgu6WqMpUyWE79PXCSLKQFGCMlqXhnkNox7gN_nKzy9dbrY/s640/P1180091.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTICOEyXBTpGMbAk7pJYwnzhEb5d1RMjVb5QdBdy5fwSQBiTFU_-hpCDG-wYOogCw4WDQnShvtRmjA4Ak9ji_6lFaFn6X8euHmVeaoiJbnPAKkzKlotEhx_WYDaku0BOiSUQkTnDvKvqk/s1600/HUISHAN+Drawing1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTICOEyXBTpGMbAk7pJYwnzhEb5d1RMjVb5QdBdy5fwSQBiTFU_-hpCDG-wYOogCw4WDQnShvtRmjA4Ak9ji_6lFaFn6X8euHmVeaoiJbnPAKkzKlotEhx_WYDaku0BOiSUQkTnDvKvqk/s640/HUISHAN+Drawing1.jpg" width="452" /></a></div><br />For SS14, Zhang has been thinking about the body, with particular reference to the photography of Man Ray whom he observes "transformed women's shapes" through his use of blurring double exposure. A key silhouette is a short fitted dress with flouncing 'pep-hem' with coats and trousers which support that idea. There is no fastening but instead Zhang has employed bias cutting- he cites it as "modernised Vionnet approach"- to create a close fit which "is neither tight nor loose". Then it gets complicated with traditional couture smocking which gives a waffled, textured look and re-uses the bias by twisting it back on itself 45degrees. My maths fails me here but Zhang tells me how he studies ancient Chinese mathematical theories so that "the pieces look very simple but it takes lots of equations to get there".<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkxx1RZmM1cUGaVj8n_G7bwhz27XiL2EcMQ03-ZoRajlKwQYfvW53r8z4j4LJNtJ9pi5sNyDVT94qdNRkslfpNpBmI-TPKsL0ihwyo0CzMZBKsQpFapy5cvCAvB3s0olL9HOJYcCDy6dY/s1600/P1180057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkxx1RZmM1cUGaVj8n_G7bwhz27XiL2EcMQ03-ZoRajlKwQYfvW53r8z4j4LJNtJ9pi5sNyDVT94qdNRkslfpNpBmI-TPKsL0ihwyo0CzMZBKsQpFapy5cvCAvB3s0olL9HOJYcCDy6dY/s640/P1180057.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfeuoIdQgyRtciqujX7L1zPRb4pYN4ePTXMJse9o3f9J28-pjNqv_9NuPrOR3pxgc5qWa5gdVqGBD13NMzuVx43rR8VixlfW82bGTT25XgJ5CjPRDVTwPiGqvHAaNCNkN-fnjsF3XfJ8/s1600/P1180058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfeuoIdQgyRtciqujX7L1zPRb4pYN4ePTXMJse9o3f9J28-pjNqv_9NuPrOR3pxgc5qWa5gdVqGBD13NMzuVx43rR8VixlfW82bGTT25XgJ5CjPRDVTwPiGqvHAaNCNkN-fnjsF3XfJ8/s640/P1180058.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqy6tt0iPCFK3O5FvXNqTdU-VaEkcdNPo7arYEXpbaArtRm5i5PmvZ9jOy9IzwP01TfhKwJazmKzubcko_vPCx-i_VZ4VnPysZARyy1cEnv4hLAt9QkTnb4iy_uGJeg53dmHk_oxyw3Xc/s1600/P1180059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqy6tt0iPCFK3O5FvXNqTdU-VaEkcdNPo7arYEXpbaArtRm5i5PmvZ9jOy9IzwP01TfhKwJazmKzubcko_vPCx-i_VZ4VnPysZARyy1cEnv4hLAt9QkTnb4iy_uGJeg53dmHk_oxyw3Xc/s640/P1180059.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MjwaqFM1lzYbT3nkIZZzJaHoepX8TpeVIycgGj4c6HTD6AFF1XR_UaT4dGcwEObZY6-67blKBzbrkV0ah2A5iL1M_DIJuHsj84nwYNN0WCB1kQj1HPB4Iz9mlKZO58Cxzyfd-PmD0tg/s1600/P1180062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MjwaqFM1lzYbT3nkIZZzJaHoepX8TpeVIycgGj4c6HTD6AFF1XR_UaT4dGcwEObZY6-67blKBzbrkV0ah2A5iL1M_DIJuHsj84nwYNN0WCB1kQj1HPB4Iz9mlKZO58Cxzyfd-PmD0tg/s640/P1180062.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />Swarovski have continued their sponsorship of Zhang this season and he's put a new spin on the idea of embellishment. "We used these teardrop crystals as a protection for the very delicate fabric beneath" he explains as he shows me the Man Ray image <i>Tears </i>which sparked the idea. Usually it's the gems which need protecting so it's nice to think there's a bit of role reversal going on. There are also big pailettes which look almost like fish scales layered like a second skin over tiny tops. The embellishment helps too with Zhang's colour mission; "I focused on this photograph by Erwin Blumenfeld- I wanted to take weird colours and make them look nice". Personally, I quite like jade green and rose but of course they do look lovelier when they're made to sparkle and glimmer- I'm looking forward to seeing them under the lights at today's presentation.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4LzENTSTTJWqWzSEZq3hT41BNRuxV56Ae2gq1El1RM4log16blABjkJdrpiS3UDJZO3KlB8L2INYD9c-UEes1PvmYj65EGV1U-qOK5gP6pydjI5C5nG-_86SrjDTPuZoDbrn5DGqWak/s1600/P1180063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4LzENTSTTJWqWzSEZq3hT41BNRuxV56Ae2gq1El1RM4log16blABjkJdrpiS3UDJZO3KlB8L2INYD9c-UEes1PvmYj65EGV1U-qOK5gP6pydjI5C5nG-_86SrjDTPuZoDbrn5DGqWak/s640/P1180063.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY6ovMU17I_QjvNESkMNc8UI11O3BIZr44lIEU7I89smObszgy4wc3XNwpYw5klIcgXIY5y7ed23n4Us_IgBItPKnEb37x1ao81EJOLm0UW88G9h7H4eKA9PKqIqo2NNVCnM_lO63zAcE/s1600/P1180065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY6ovMU17I_QjvNESkMNc8UI11O3BIZr44lIEU7I89smObszgy4wc3XNwpYw5klIcgXIY5y7ed23n4Us_IgBItPKnEb37x1ao81EJOLm0UW88G9h7H4eKA9PKqIqo2NNVCnM_lO63zAcE/s640/P1180065.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNFalS1oRd73NfIltnPi5zUMyy99l7bbfCSQ2tzKpKEf2mzF7a_qu5QA0cch2bTHunXtWUJb9g3tuYHmmImZMZHAh6VT6mYCxTxZaO6GQa46I_7lZ6_YLt7SZ6LDtxaJ9C-yK_FVI9BG0/s1600/P1180079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNFalS1oRd73NfIltnPi5zUMyy99l7bbfCSQ2tzKpKEf2mzF7a_qu5QA0cch2bTHunXtWUJb9g3tuYHmmImZMZHAh6VT6mYCxTxZaO6GQa46I_7lZ6_YLt7SZ6LDtxaJ9C-yK_FVI9BG0/s640/P1180079.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />Amazingly, there are just three fabrics in the entire collection: organza, jersey (a new addition, sourced from underwear suppliers) and silk which has been specially treated so that it doesn't crease. Then there is an abundance of lace which acts as a trim and, in many cases, an extra veil. I love Zhang's story about spotting this incredible lace at an exhibition while he was at Central Saint Martin's. He wanted to work with the manufacturers but had no idea where they were based. After a bit of research, it turned out that the factory was round the corner from his parent's business in Qingdao and that their accountant's wife was the designer. The pattern is very different, Zhang tells me, to what you might find in Europe, "the flowers we use in China are very specific, and we always work in a figure of eight pattern". As I touch and admire the collection, Zhang exclaims "everyone has something Chinese now. Your toothbrush was probably made there so my coming along is just good timing." Indeed.<br /><br />With thanks to the Swarovski Collective.<br /><pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt><br /></tt></pre>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-1348223350510145442013-09-12T07:12:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:46.004-08:00JW ANDERSON & AMANDA HARLECH TALK COLLABORATIONPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large<br /><br />When this beautifully-made video landed in our inbox this morning, it was an instantly calming antidote to pre-LFW jitters and tasks. Commisioned by The London EDITION (<a href="http://www.editionhotels.com/">new hotel</a> launching soon) and <a href="http://www.nowness.com/">Nowness</a> magazine, the film sees Amanda Harlech and JW Anderson serenely lazing in the grounds of the former's Shropshire pile, having a chat about collaborating which takes the notion above and beyond the almost ceaseless collabs which are now such a big part of the fashion industry. Make a cup of tea and take three minutes to float away on a Harlech/ Anderson cloud...<br /><br /><iframe frameborder="0" height="315px" src="http://www.nowness.com/media/embedvideo?itemid=3322&issueid=2590" width="500px"></iframe><a href="http://www.nowness.com/day/2013/9/12/3322/on-collaboration-amanda-harlech-x-jonathan-anderson"> On Collaboration: Amanda Harlech x Jonathan Anderson</a> on <a href="http://www.nowness.com/">Nowness.com</a><br /><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 11pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1812240353044713124.post-59474694535853859152013-09-06T10:04:00.000-07:002014-01-06T08:12:46.096-08:00FASHION NEWS: SOME THINKING AHEAD OF SS14 FASHION WEEKSPosted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor of Large<br /><br />The SS14 shows are officially underway and so for the next four weeks fashion news will largely centre on who's who and what's what for next Spring. So, today I thought I'd share a few links to longer think pieces which have appeared over the past couple of weeks as well as a couple of need-to- know news bits.<br /><br />First up, Kering, who in January acquired a 51% stake in Christopher Kane, today a<a href="http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/kering-takes-stake-in-altuzarra-7116075?module=hp-topstories">dded Joseph Altuzarra to their portfolio of brands </a>by investing in a minority stake in the business just days before Altuzarra's NYFW show. Way to create a buzz.<br /><br />Lauren Sherman on <a href="http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/09/why-deputy-designers-rarely-become-nyfw-stars.html">designers transitioning from no.2 to Creative Director star</a><br /><br />Brilliant, thought provoking piece on<a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/is-the-fashion-runway-at-a-crossroads/2013/09/03/4dfc2a58-11b0-11e3-bdf6-e4fc677d94a1_story.html"> fashion's moral compass by Robin Givhan</a><br /><br />Cathy Horyn bemoans <a href="http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/08/23/when-fashion-week-was-made-of-simpler-cloth/?_r=0">the new way fashion weeks pan out</a>.<br /><br />Suzy Menzes on <a href="http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/08/23/sign-of-the-times-the-new-speed-of-fashion/">faster and faster fashion</a><br /><br />I listened to bits of this earlier and it was inspiring and fascinating- <a href="http://showstudio.com/project/in_fashion/lucinda_chambers">Lucinda Chambers interviewed by Lou Stoppard on SHOWstudio. </a><br /><br />Finally, music in fashion.<br /><br />Christopher Bailey has <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/sep/04/christopher-bailey-music-burberry-fashion">a dedicated music team at Burberry</a>.<br /><br />And Hedi Slimane has made his first Saint Laurent video to promote ballerina shoes. It stars Gracie van Gastel, with soundtrack by Cherry Glazerr.<br /><br />Happy Weekend!<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/uPFOjvEVsik" width="480"></iframe><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03206233849997953674noreply@blogger.com0