THE FEAL GOLDEN GLOBES RED CARPET AWARDS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Another year, another awards season has begun with last night's Golden Globes, hurrah! Aside from the serious business of doling out awards for the year's film efforts, the pre-event red carpet is a phenomenon in itself. For forensic, look-by-look analysis of what everyone was wearing, you don't get much more comprehensive than Red Carpet Fashion Awards. However, the what-to-wear conumdrum is notoriously fraught with risks for celebrities, no matter how many stylists and designer loans they have at their disposal. Looking through last night's choices, it seems that there are some serious strategies to pulling together the look which go way beyond the seemingly simple task of "Do I like this  look?". So, I've dissected the motives at play in last night's star line-up...

BEST FOR TWITTER TRENDING

If Twitter had existed in 2001 when Bjork wore her Swan dress to the Oscars then she would own this category, in fact purely on principle she does anyway. The key is to make a statement and create a debate. It's an especially useful tool to pull from your arsenal if you're looking for a bit of a publicity boost. It was Lucy Liu who worked this category best last night, the evidence being that her name has been trending on Twitter all morning with plenty of debate about her choice of thick fishtail plait and rose garden print Carolina Herrera dress.

BEST SAFE CHOICE

An overwhelming number of actresses are now so terrified of trying something new or very slightly daring for fear of getting it wrong and having dreaded "MISS" (rather than "HIT") stamped on their photograph that they wear something so utterly safe that it is basically boring. Anne Hathaway wore this very beautiful, completely simple Chanel dress very much in the safe category, crucially though it's still feels fresh and stylish rather than whiffing of terror.

BEST FUSION OF GLAMOUR AND MINIMAL

This category is a hybrid of the minimal, sculpted look which has been best portrayed by Gwyneth Paltrow in recent times with the old-school, bling glamour of Elizabeth Taylor. Emily Blunt went for a golden (glamour tick), ab flashing (modern minimal tick) Michael Kors column with flashes of pink the her jewellery, which is the way to do glamour in a very now kind of way.

BEST FOR WORKING REAL WORLD TRENDS

I'm sure you're aware that graphic monochrome is a big thing for SS13 for the likes of you and I. The divine Julianne Moore gave us a sign that she's down with the kids by picking a Tom Ford black and white block gown. There were enough super expensive rocks and bafflingly sleek hair and make-up to render the look red carpet appropriate.

BEST COLOUR STATEMENT

Amongst a sea of nude and black bla bla bla, Marion Cotillard's tangerine Dior by Raf Simons gown is refreshing. The most important thing about this dress is the power it holds to make us think about a new colour, to signify a 2013 palette and take Simons' agenda beyond the catwalk for the world to see. Never mind the clash with the carpet.

BEST BRIT

It's a hard task heading up the British style contingent at US awards ceremonies. Michelle Dockery did a rather fabulous job of flying the flag perhaps not for a British designer but for a kind of serenely regal English rose look in her Alexandre Vauthier gown with golden guipure bodice, rounded shoulders, high neck and swooping white skirt.

BEST "WE LOOK LIKE GATECRASHERS BUT ARE LEGITIMATE GUESTS"

Helena Bonham Carter and Tim Burton would quite possibly win this award every time but last night's appearence was further enhanced by Burton's arm sling and Bonham-Carter's sunglasses. If anyone has seen Les Mis then perhaps you'll agree that this reminds of Bonham-Carter's final scene in the film when she, as Madame Thénardier, gatecrashes Cosette and Marius's wedding with her on-screen husband played by Sacha Baron-Cohen?

BEST SHORT DRESS

It takes guts and great legs to dare wear short to big Hollywood shindig like this but Thandie Newton in Giles did a grand job. Rachel Weisz in Louis Vuitton is also highly commended in this category but sadly couldn't actually win because she had gauzy tulle giving her legs some coverage.

BEST FOR VIRTUOSITY

It may look like your standard tux, but this is actually an "OEKO-TEX certified, low environmental impact, European spun and woven wool suiting" fabric. That basically means Bradley Cooper joined Livia Firth's legendary Green Carpet Challenge. Bravo.

Images via Vogue.co.uk and Guardian.co.uk

THE WEEK IN FASHION: JANUARY 7th-11th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

There's no gentle schlepping back to business here on planet fashion, but it's full speed ahead for 2013. Here are the need-to-know stories from the first full week of the new year...

Frankenstein tees and Dandy slippers from Christopher Kane (image via Guardian.co.uk)

Drawings by Christopher Kane's nephew via @Dazed_Fashion

London ushered in the menswear season with three days of Brit fashion talent from a host of designers, including standouts from Agi and Sam (inspired, brilliantly, by the Marquess of Bath), Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll and Christopher Kane. I popped along to J.W.Anderson and E.Tautz, spending most of the latter thinking how I would really love a very slightly altered version of most looks for myself. Lo and behold, it turns out the Savile Row label, designed by the dapper and bearded Patrick Grant , has created a small line of shirts for women which is due to go on sale at Matches later in the Spring. A more extensive womenswear offering hasn't been ruled out.

Big coats based on an eBay find at E.Tautz (image via Vogue.co.uk)

After Chanel's storming Metiers D'Arts show at Linlithgow Palace, Edinburgh in December, the brand announced this week that the next show will take place in Dallas. Karl Lagerfeld told WWD's CEO summit that "With Texas, it’s a detail, but with little detail, you can make a whole story. I am a storyteller for that". There has been speculation about that this detail might be, perhaps something to with the newly reincarnated Dallas TV series? Or, perhaps more likely- as suggested by fashion commentator Camilla Morton- is the connection with the 50th anniversary of John F. Kennedy's assasination. He was killed on November 22nd 1963 in the Texan city. Famously, his wife was wearing a Chanel suit which she kept on for hours afterwards, still caked in her husband's blood.

Camilla Morton ‏@fashionlala

1963 Jackie Kennedy wore iconic pink @CHANEL tweed suit when JFK was shot in Dallas wonder if this will be a reference?

There has been mounting concern for Vittorio Missoni whose plane went missing over Venezuela last Friday. His son, Ottavio, told an Italian newspaper "I am not speaking with my head but with my heart. A plane cannot vanish in this way, on a short route, without leaving any trace." Numerous theories have been posed about what may have happened to the party of six, with an apparent text message leading to suspicions they may have been kidnapped. Then, yesterday reports that a body had been found were quickly quashed. The Missoni family runs the fashion empire whose zig zag, brightly coloured lightweight knits are instantly recognisable.The search continues with everyone's hope for a happy ending.

Anglea Missoni's message, tweeted from the company's official account @Missoni

If the latest front covers of LOVE and Italian Vogue and Italian Vogue are anything to go by, then beauty is heading in a clean, yet pretty direction with a focus on fluttering, Bambi eyelashes and super-sculpted cheekbones. Fei Fei Sun and Cara Delevingne respectively do the honours. Beautiful.

LOVE 9. See the preview here

Vogue Italia, January 2013 (via designscene.net)

Many congratulations to Suzy Menkes who was this week awarded the Fiorino d'Oro, Florence's highest honour. Pitti Immagine chairman Gaetano Martonno praised Menkes' "independence, correctness and professionalism" while the International Herald Tribune fashion editor told WWD that she felt the award was like "a love letter to Italian fashion."

Congratulations Suzy Menkes (image via telegraph.co.uk)

10 UK graduates have won the chance to have their work shown at Who's Next Paris thanks to WHO’S NEXT PARIS x ARTS THREAD x WGSN Fashion Graduate Competition. Who's Next Paris takes place from 19th-22nd January, showcasing future trends and talent to fashion insiders. Here are some images of the work by the winners announced earlier today, find out more about them at Arts Thread

Jewellery by Mulika Nir

Womenswear by Annika Aouar

East London's Whitechapel Gallery is set to host its very first catwalk show as part of its Art Plus series, and a very stylish event it shall be with the likes of Giles Deacon, Marios Schwab, Justine Picardie and Bella Frued among the supporters. Swarovski will be sponsoring the March festivities, with Nadja Swarovski among those on the panel choosing their most promising group of postgraduates to show their designs. Of course, it's all for a good cause with funds raised going towards the gallery's education initiative. Early bird tickets- for just £150- and more information are available at the Whitechapel site.

Speaking of art... the very first official portrait of History of Art graduate and future Queen, Kate Middleton was unveiled at the National Portrait Gallery this morning to a throughly mixed reception. Will and Kate called it "beautiful" and "amazing" as they saw it for the first time accompanied by the artist Paul Emsley. The Daily Mail said it was "rotten" and tweeters drew comparison to Twilight imagery and plastic surgery "Before" photographs. Ouch. Any opinions to add?

The Duchess of Cambridge by Paul Emsley (via telegraph.co.uk)

Two videos of the week. Firstly, how could we not, the new Bowie...



And, looking forward to the new Destiny's Child, let it be as good as this. Happy Weekend!

JW ANDERSON MEN'S AW13: FIVE THINGS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

London's menswear shows are getting into a groove now, this being the second season that they've had their very own dedicated schedule spanning three days. I've dipped my toe in the water today, starting out with JW Anderson's show this morning. Every J-Dubz- as Jonathan's label is affectionately known- offering comes as an exploration of some intellectual concept which often seems to me like it may be more at home in the studies of the lecturers who took me through my English degree than on a catwalk. That's not to say that it doesn't eventually work to study through clothes rather words, a practise which Jonathan has pretty much mastered (although it must be said that he also gets it bang-on with pieces you want to wear every day- see his Topshop collab). However, it does mean that the collection is challenging. For most of us that means an exciting new thing to get our heads around, something fresh for the eye to adjust to, far removed from our accepted concepts of what is or is not "stylish" or "acceptable". When Vogue's Fashion Editor Fran Burns tweeted some pictures from the show, she received a few spiky replies including "Sorry but even wide-eyed fashion followers will find this ugly". Her retort? " Keep your knickers on people! Fashion is an expressive art form". With that in mind, I've boiled down the show to the five key points to really get to grips with.

#1. KINKY ACCESSORIES

Kinky may well be the wrong word to use here because it's not as if looks were littered with whips and harnesses but there was something subtly fetishistic about the flounce-edged black leather riding boots and bright white latex gloves which seemed like a mad concoction of washing up, magician and Michael Jackson references. The boots were not the only point of leg interest as many looks featured such short lengths that acres of thigh were still on show. That combination of thigh and tough black leather gave the boys a very vampy vibe.

#2. SHOW NOTES WITH MEANING

I'm a little obsessed with show notes and the myriad of ways designers choose to introduce their collections. Here are what we got to read (all in caps) as we sat down this morning:

"THE J.W.ANDERSON AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 COLLECTION IS AN EXAMINATION OF BOURGEOIS KINKYNESS AND BOUDOIR PERVERSITY. IT EXPLORES THE SELFISH ACT OF RESHUFFLING THE NOTION OF ANATOMY AND CREATING SUSPENDED ARCHITECTURES. THE WARDROBE BECOMES A PROJECTION OF THE MIND ONTO A WHITE CANVAS"

#3. BOYS IN SKIRTS AND BOOB TUBES

Unisex fashion is very often more about girls dressing in boyish clothes than boys dressing in girly clothes- masculine tailoring is an oft used expression in women's fashion writing but when do you ever find GQ singing the praises of feminine florals, for example, for men to give a try? J.W Anderson is very much interested in blurring gender in fashion but he dares do it the other way, enter boys in skirts, dresses and boob tubes. And some of those guys look disconcertingly great.

#4. THE HAIR

Talk about Slick Rick. The models had severe forehead to neck nape partings. I may be reading too much into it but from the front these could almost pass as ladies low ponytails, there we are, challenged once more.

#5. THE PIECES YOU CAN REALLY WEAR

It's not all about conceptual pushing the boundaries. J.W Anderson AW13 has perfect coats, jumpers, trousers... for boys and girls.

MEET THE NEW WEDGE HI-TOP: THE WEDGE TRAINER

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Way back in 2007, Victoria Beckham strode onto the field at a baseball game between the New York Mets and the LA Dodgers to do the ceremonial first pitch. At the time, if my memory serves me correctly, the press had a lovely time talking about how VB was so dedicated to her heels that she couldn't even bring herself to wear flat trainers for her sporting appearance. Fast forward over five years and Mrs Beckham has come a long way since those peroxide crop days. I can't remember the last time we saw her in anything approaching a hot pant and there have even been forays into ballet shoes, biker boots and gladiator sandals. The Victoria Beckham in the photo above is almost unrecognisable from the chic designer we see today, even if the footwear was by Dries Van Noten . 

British Vogue, January 2013

And yet, I have a sneaking suspicion that those bright white wedges might have crept onto the mood boards sketching out fashion for 2013. In case you hadn't noticed, last year was dominated by the wedge trainer; Isabel Marant's Bekket and Ash's Bea sparked thousands of imitations and some even said that these were "new Uggs". The evolution of the sporting wedge has now taken a seriously high end swerve, much like Posh Spice herself. In a colour blasted, Paul Weller inspired Patrick Demarchelier shoot starring Karen Elson in January's Vogue, Lucinda Chambers was clearly so taken with Jil Sander Navy's wedges that she used them in every single full-length shot of the 12 page shoot. Yesterday, Celine's pre-fall collection was unveiled complete with several rifs on the wedge trainer. Unlike their high top relations, the new wedge sport shoe is clean and rather smart with tight laces best worn in a neat bow. The curve of the wedge is in full view, instead of muffled under padding, and they are seriously high. Certainly no contender for Ugg replacement. Get yours at Saks or Solestruck, white hot pants not advisable. 

Celine Pre-Fall 2013 (style.com)

Celine pre-fall 2013 (style.com)

FASHION FOR 2013: NEW YEAR, FRESH BEGINNING

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

In her column on Fluffy Jumpers-which let's face it, we've all been living in for the past two weeks- Jess Cartner-Morley warns that their time as our sartorial go-to is limited, that the trail of fluff we leave is "fashion's way of telling you the post-Christmas hibernation period is over". When a mere month ago it was hard to see past the fuggy forthcoming swing between cosy knitwear and party dresses, now is the time to get our look together again, wipe the slate clean and perhaps try out fashion's new soft pared back mood. Gone is the austere sharpness of old school minimalism, in its place something inspired by  the soft curve of a Givenchy or Balenciaga Spring/ Summer flounce or the delicate twist of a Celine bow shirt.

Gently minimal... Celine SS13

Filippa K, one of the lesser known but nevertheless well established Skandi brands, sent me these quite beautiful images of their SS13 collection back at the beginning of December when all I could really think about was cocktail rings and glittery socks. Today, however, they seem completely perfect and very much in keeping with fashion's new direction. Everything looks buttery and luxurious, like a gentle, hand held, fresh start. Nothing that's too much of a shock to the system, which is surely what January is all about? Of course, Julia Stegner's mussed up Germanic blondness helps too. It looks to me like by far the best selection of the brand's cocooning but smart knits and no-nonsense cropped trousers will be at one of their stores in Denmark, Sweden and the like. If that's not on your 2013 agenda then Anthroplogie, Nelly and Atterley Road make a good start.

Images courtesy of Filippa K, by Lachlan Bailey