THE SURPRISE DRESS OF THE SUMMER: TEA DRESS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Early indications were that this summer would be the season of the spaghetti strap slip. Nods to Clueless and Courtney Love abounded on the catwalks and it is true that they're all over the shops. Doesn't every girl in the country now own an ASOS/ Topshop cami? But cast a gaze over the forthcoming AW13 trends as well as the recently released Resort collections and the spaghetti strap looks set to hang around a while longer.

Tea dress on the SS13 Bottega Veneta catwalk (style.com)

Spaghetti straps in The Row Resort '14 (style.com)

When we look back on this Summer in years to come, the two big events which are likely to come to mind will be 1. the heatwave 2. the royal baby. And in that no.2 scenario, the humble tea dress has played a not insignificant role. As the world grappled for any smidgen of news possible following Monday night's announcement of the new Prince's birth yesterday, one of the first "big" stories was the arrival of 2 members of Kate and Wills' entourage. One of them, a young blonde who could easily just have been a friend you were meeting at the pub, was wearing a bright red tea dress covered in overblown poppies. which looks very much like one Topshop had earlier in the year. A few hours later,  websites and news channels had a new thing to talk about in the arrival of Kate's parents. Her Mum, Carole, wore a ditsy floral patterned Orla Kiely tea dress. Fast forward to the big event of the day and Duchess Kate herself emerged from the Lindo Wing, babe in arms, wearing cornflower blue spotted silky dress, especially designed for the occasion by Jenny Packham.

DAY IN THE LIFE OF A TEA DRESS

A Royal aide begins the tea dress proceedings (via dailymail.co.uk)

Carole Middleton in her Orla Kiely dress (via dailymail.co.uk)

Kate's Jenny Packham dress (dailymail.co.uk)

Obviously, Kate and her clan are a pretty specific community who are probably more likely than many to veer towards a tea dress but those will surely be the photographs which define this Summer? The tea dress common denominator might not have seemed so significant had there not been a bit of a build up over previous months in other areas of fashiondom; Emma Watson wore a gorgeous black and pink one just last week while the likes of Katie Perry and Rachel Weisz have been seen in the Bottega Veneta versions which were one of the most memorable dresses from the SS13 shows.

Katy Parry in Bottega Veneta (via fashionbombdaily.com) 

Rachel Weisz in a tea dress by Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta (via redcarpet-fashionawards.com)

Emma Watson in her pretty tea dress (via dailymail.co.uk)

The curious thing about a tea dress is that there is no hard and fast shape to define them. They can be gathered or tied at the waist (like Carole's and the Bottega Venetas) or have an empire line, like Kate's. Some have quite a tight, 1940s silhouette while others flare out  over the hips. Somehow though you know a tea dress when you see one. There is usually some frilling or gathering somewhere and the fabric is silky and prettily patterned. It is probably cut on the bias (one thing it has in common with slips).  Tea dresses are very feminine and recall mid-century dressing. If you were going out to afternoon tea in the countryside, a tea dress- as its name suggests- would be a no-brainer. And the final bonus, even if we buy into tea dresses as the the item for this Summer, they definitely won't look out of place for many more to come.

MADE IN BRITAIN: ESK CASHMERE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

You may or may not be pleased to know that this is not the place to come for tenuous posts about an impending royal birth. The post I happened to have planned for today though is in some ways fitting for the occasion because it is about something brilliantly British.

Ever since Chanel bought Barrie knitwear (saving them from the administrators) and then put on a lavish métiers d'arts show at Edinburgh's Linlithgow Castle last December, there has been a renewed interest in Scottish manufacturing, most specifically special Scottish jumpers. Stella Tennant, the aristocratic supermodel born and bred in the Borders,  dominated the July issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. In Vogue's shoot she was shown at her home in Berwickshire, snuggled up in a woollen Chanel jumper dress and socks, lounging on a blanket. The message doesn't get more loud and clear than that: Scottish wool is where it's at.

Stella Tennant in July Vogue wearing Scottish knitwear by Chanel (via designandculturebyed.wordpress.com)

There are plenty of ways to get in on the act without resorting to pricey Chanel (divine as it is). Last Autumn, I came across ESK at a press day. The jumpers were indescribably soft and the shapes beautifully chic. If you were compiling a list of the absolute ideal versions of everything to have in your wardrobe, then these would be your jumpers.  The added bonus is that the ESK brand has a lovely story to it. It seems to me to be a great blueprint for good, honest family business entering the fashion sphere. Stuart Maxwell is ESK's Managing Director and has been working at his family's knitwear factory for over 20 years. Lorraine Acornley designs for ESK and comes from an impressive background with previous stints at Joseph, Pringle and Alberta Ferretti. They answered my questions about ESK... I love their elegant, no-nonsense approach.

How did ESK start?

A meeting of minds 18 months ago cemented a goal of making a beautiful knitwear collection that anyone with an eye for detail and quality would instantly get.

How are you different from other knitwear brands?

We make the whole collection ourselves in our own factory. This allows absolute control. Design pushes the production process and achieves wonderful integrated features and detailing. We choose yarns purely on quality and character, price is not a factor. This gives the collection an artisanal and considered edge.

Where did the ESK name come from?

Our factory is situated near the Eskvalley in South West Scotland and is called Eskvalley Knitwear. We stripped this back for our brand as it felt cool, edgy and modern.

Scottish fashion and manufacturing is having a moment after Chanel's show at Linlithgow last December. What is special about the Scottish way of doing things?

The Scottish tradition with fine textiles is engrained with centuries of experience. It's in our DNA, and this spirit permeates the products of our labour.

What makes the perfect piece of knitwear, do you think?

 Style, colour and integrated luxury.

Is it very difficult to find spinners and knitters with the right skills for your business?

Luckily, we have found the perfect knitters. Spinners are difficult to find but if you open your eyes, kindred spirits are there to be found.

You have a very strong design aesthetic and there are some great quotes and photos on your website, what inspires you?

Nature, architecture, modern design, photography and art. And fellow members of team ESK of course!

There are clothes and homeware… Is ESK a lifestyle?

Yes, but a real lifestyle that lasts after the trend has passed.

What gems in Scotland would you recommend to somebody visiting for the first time?

The coast between Southerness and Port Logan - quite a few miles. The Logan Botanical Gardens.
The beautiful Valley of Tarras. The Dunmore Pineapple, House of the Binns and Blackness Castle and Culross are all not far from Linlithgow Palace. The Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye are on our list to see.

The Dunmore Pineapplae, how brilliant does this place look? (dunmoreperennials.co.uk)

ESK is available to buy in store LN-CC, Harvey Nichols and Joseph. Online at ESKcashmere.com

All ESK AW13 images courtesy of the brand

THE WEEK IN FASHION: JULY 15th-19th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Fashion news is back from its summer holiday and eager to be back delivering all the fashion happenings before the weekend. here's everything you need to know this week...

First, two big business departures from key e-tailers. Sarah Curran announced that she would be parting ways with My-Wardrobe, the site which she founded 2006. Curran had increasingly taken a back seat in recent years, leaving the day-to-day running of the company to Global CEO David Worby and Fashion Director Camilla Borgonovo. Curran told Vogue, "I wanted a new challenge - I'm not one to coast along, and my decision to leave coincided with some reshuffling and changes in top-tier management and new investment - it just felt like the right time". In slightly more mysterious circumstances, Kate Bostock has left ASOS after just 7 months as Director of Product and Trading. In the aftermath of the announcement, ASOS CEO Nick Robertson explained that 'culturally we are very different'. Bostock's departure doesn't seem to have upset investors though; the ASOS share price remains unchanged.

Kate Moss with Lila Grace a.k.a Andy in Devil Wears Prada (image via Vogue.com)

The best anecdote of the week emerged from Allure's interview with Kate Moss. The supermodel, who has also just launched a range of phone accessories with Carphone Warehouse, revealed that one of her daughter's favourite games is playing at Devil Wears Prada. Moss tells how “She puts a little outfit on and picks up the phone: ‘Hello, Miranda Priestly’s office. Can you hold? Patrick Demarchelier on the line!’… I died when I heard her do it. So funny." Obviously, this is far more ironic than any old 10 year-old acting out her favourite film scene given that Lila-Grace has probably holidayed with Demarchelier and had dinner with Priestly's alter ego, Anna Wintour.

Katie Grand's insight into what it's like to work with Miuccia Prada is really fascinating. Highlights include Grand's own description of the rails of Miu Miu and Prada which she owns, not to mention the 'maybe 1,000 pairs of Prada shoes' which she has to her name. The article celebrates Miuccia Prada's modelling debut in the latest issue of LOVE, to celebrate the magazine's 5th anniversary.

Miuccia Prada in the 5th anniversary edition of LOVE (via guardian.co.uk)

Tributes have poured in for David Collins, the interior designer who created fabulous spaces both in London and around the world. The man responsible for Claridge's Bar, The Wolseley, McQueen boutiques and Bergdorf Goodman in New York passed away this week after a short battle with a particularly virulent form of skin cancer. Patrick Grant, the E.Tautz designer, described Collins as 'always great for a giggle at parties' while Gordon Ramsay called him 'a gentleman who really understood how to create a restaurant. He put us all on the map'. Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman commented 'His work merged luxury, glamour and heritage in an inimitable fashion and his company was always of the first and most enjoyable order.' The Evening Standard have charted Collins' life and achievements beautifully here.

David Collins with his good friend Madonna (via standard.co.uk)

I love fashion maths. Fashionista has done some fascinating sums and worked out that Gucci scored a massive 111 front covers with their SS13 collection, making the bright ruffles the hit items of the season. Of course, advertising has a lot to do with this but Gucci do seem to do particularly well when it comes to covers. More telling perhaps is second position Christian Dior with 97 cover appearances for Raf Simons' second collection. It's a steep increase for the brand and perhaps a sign of a renewed feeling of relevance since Simons' arrival.

Naomi Watts in Gucci on the cover of Vogue Australia (via vogue.com.au)

Who'd have thought it possible, but Suzy Menkes constructed a rather convincing argument for a new Italian fashion mood following the arrival of the new Pope Francis. She wrote that "Looking at the discreet, sober, even chaste outfits put forward by the new designers, you have to ask this question: Has the humility and abstention demonstrated by Francis since he became pope in March influenced the fashion message coming out of Italy?" Certainly there's a marked difference between the perceived extravagance and love of showiness associated with Francis's predecessor, Benedict, and the piety of Francis's messages. But surely Italian fashion, with the likes of Gucci, Versace and Dolce and Gabbana among its number, can't stay chaste for long?

Pope Francis, fashion icon? (image via thecommentor.com)

TWO THINGS TO DO THIS WEEKEND:

1. Dye your hair grey

According to Rihanna, 'Grey is the new black!'. She made her maxim true by getting extensions in a pewter hue. if you needed any further proof that grey could be a fabulous new hair colour option, then check out the latest issue of Vogue in which the magazine's Fashion Feaures Director, Sarah Harris, spends a week cavorting in at Cannes in Cavalli, each looked topped off by her famously silver mane.

Vogue's Sarah Harris in Cavalli (via vogue.co.uk)

2. Get down to the Burlington Arcade

It may have a rep for being the home of many super traditional brands, but Sophia Webster is shaking things up down at the Burlington Arcade with a fun new pop-up shop which is in situ for six weeks. Given how kitschly fun her LFW presentations are, it's a great opportunity to get a bricks and mortar experience of her fast-rising brand.

Sophia Webster at LFW (via graziadaily.co.uk)

BIRKENSTOCK SHOCK

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

juergenteller.tumblr.com

 Birkenstocks, bless 'em, have long had a bit of a mixed reputation. They were mostly just ugly shoes which tended to go with hairy legs and camping clothes (sweeping generalistion). Of course, it was perfectly acceptable to have a pair at the back of your wardrobe to dig out for holidays and mooching about at weekends. Then last September Phoebe Philo did her thing, lining Birkenstock shaped sandals with fur and sticking gems all over them. Of course, they instantly became the ultimate objects of Spring/ Summer '13 desire and were christened "Furkenstocks". For those of us not quite in the position to be splashing £600 on oxymoronically furry sandals, real deal Birkenstocks (c.£50) seemed like a good second option.

 A classic Birkenstock look (via themostcake.co.uk)

This afternoon, EDITD reported that buzz around Birkenstocks has increased 20% in the past month with a 10% rise in their fan numbers. The fashion data company points out that this might be down to a Facebook competition which they hosted. Fascinating. Plenty of bloggers have been debating whether they should invest in Birkenstocks as an accessible way of getting on the Celine bandwagon. After all, Philo was arguably responsible in part for the huge resurgence of love for Vans after she produced luxe silky skater slip-ons.

Walking down Oxford Street earlier today (and before I saw the EDITD tweet) I clocked dozens of people wearing Birkenstock type shoes. What was so striking to me was how you could probably second guess each person's reason for wearing them. There were those who I'd surmise were absolute devotees who'd had theirs 20 years and never took them off. Then the nonchalant women who had probably pulled them from the back of the cupboard because of course they're the most obvious thing to wear in a heatwaverushing around Central London. Finally, the devoted fashion followers who'd probably recently purchased theirs in response to the Celine versions.

Coming back to EDITD's tweet, I wondered whether this rise in fan base was in any way down to Philo or just the result of an enticing competition? What is more influential, catwalk trends or brand digital engagement? Probably a bit of both.

KNITTED BRILLIANCE: CHINTI & PARKER X PATTERNITY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Triangle sweater £420

In this heat, just looking at the word "knit" is enough to make one come over a bit faint. It would be absolute madness to put on a jumper right now. But that doesn't stop us looking (and planning), does it? Chinti and Parker's collaboration with pattern obsessive creatives Patternity is an excellent place to begin. "Conscious cloth meets conscious pattern" is what they call it. I love visiting the Patternity site; it is the perfect antidote to the messy world of scrolling web pages, phone screens and newspapers which tend to bombard the eyes on a daily basis. Landing on Anna Murray and Grace Winteringham's blog and letting your eyes roam freely across and around the scrolling shapes and lines of their posts is one of the great joys of the internet. No wonder the likes of Celine, Selfridges and now Chinti and Parker have signed up to work with them.

Dot Triangle sweater £420

I've just got back from a couple of holidays (hence the blogging silence of late). One of them was to Barcelona, a city which really shouts about its patterns. There is Miró and Gaudi artwork and architecture dotted seemingly around every corner plus plentiful churches with ornate mosaics and stained glass windows. You cannot escape it in all its forms from Modernist to Medieval.

Elsewhere, pattern can be easy to miss which is where the eye, edit and perspective of Patternity come in, picking out what is really all around us and presenting it to us in a refreshed, succinct way . I like the idea that by wearing one of their Chinti and Parker jumpers you might be creating a new momentary fixation for a passer-by to rest their eyes on. When the sun does go (not too soon I hope), that's something to look forward to.

Get Patternity x Chinti and Parker here. Barcelona pictures courtesy of Alison Coldridge.

Chinti + Parker meets Patternity - A Film by Zoe Hitchen from Zoe Hitchen on Vimeo.