Friday, December 6, 2013


Posted by Bethan Holt and Maya Peilow

It's been too long since we did any fashion news so here is a round-up of the stories which we've enjoyed/ found interesting over the past few weeks. But, first things first…


Fashion journalism stalwarts have reignited the debate surrounding the oft delicate balance between PRs and the press. In her WWD diary, Bridget Foley recounted a few recent occasions when she felt her team's coverage of certain events had been hampered by overbearing PRs who restricted access to interviewees or unnecessarily embargoed information. Then, on Monday evening Suzy Menkes used her acceptance speech at the British Fashion Awards (where she was given a Special Recognition Award) to recall the principles upon which she built her career and reputation; never accepting freebies and not getting too close to designers.

Celebrating Isabella Blow

SHOWstudio are complementing the opening of the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! exhibition at Somerset Hosue with a series of films, essays and a brilliant tumblr. You simply cannot watch Phillip Treacy's interview without being incredibly touched and learning what a unique impact Blow had on fashion.

A note Isabella wrote at Tatler and at the Stroud farmer's market (via Showstudio on Tumblr)

Suzy Menkes' deep dive into the Asian fashion landscape is a fascinating read. She examines how numerous Chinese designers have made it big, but usually by basing themselves in the US and training at US colleges. Menkes speaks with Vogue China editor Angelica Cheung about the burgeoning possibilities for Chinese fashion as well as to designers including Huishan Zhang and Anna Sui. 

With growing concerns over the ‘death of print’, it may seem surprising to see a website move to print. The Cut is an exception to this rule. Following the New York Magazine’s announcement that it would be cutting back to a biweekly in an effort to reduce costs, the magazine will have more content, less frequently. The magazine will contain a six-page section by The Cut, dedicated to delivering regular fashion content in a format consistent with New York. Why the change? According to New York’s fashion director Amy Larocca, “we’ve done well with fashion, and people want more.”

Burberry trademark in doubt 

Burberry, renowned for its classic check print, may have lost the exclusive rights to using the ‘Haymarket Check’ design. In a legal dispute, dating back to August 2010, Burberry and Polo Santa Roberta (PSR) have disagreed over the exclusive use of the print. The Chinese authorities have withdrawn the trademark protection of the print long-associated with the British brand, following PSR’s claims that Burberry was monopolising part of Scotland’s cultural heritage. However, the association of the check design with the brand runs much deeper. The official Scottish Register of Tartans refers to the Haymarket check as “Burberry.” An appeal as been lodged and Burberry maintain that the trademark remains exclusive property of Burberry and they are confident about the appeal. In addition, according to Chinese law, if an appeal is lodged in time, Burberry will retain the rights until the outcome of appeal has been decided. So, all is not lost…yet.

Forget about Kanye’s request for fans to boycott, Vuitton quite literally had bigger problems on their hands. The iconic French brand was ordered to remove the giant trunk pavilion, covered with Vuitton’s signature logos, from Moscow’s Red Square, just 10 days after being installed. The trunk was planned to open an exhibition about travellers using the brand’s iconic luggage, on 2 December with proceeds going to Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova’s charity. However, the publicity stunt, on a UNESCO World Heritage Site, had not been well received by the locals, tourists and especially the Government. There were doubts as to whether Vuitton were ever granted permission to erect the pavilion, considering that the land is under the Kremlin’s jurisdiction. While a brand spokesman insisted that they had not received any official requests to remove the trunk, its removal commenced on 27 November.

The Archbishop of Canterbury, The Most Reverend Justin Welby, argues that the fashion industry has trivialised the Holy Cross. He argued that the symbol for Christianity, which used to be “a badge of shame” in the early stages of the religion, has become “a symbol of beauty to hang around your neck.” The Archbishop made the comments in the foreword to his new book Looking Through the Cross.

Have you ever dreamed of a fashion drive-through? Parisian retailer Colette has teamed up with Miami’s concept store, Alchemist, for an “Art Drive-Thru” at 1111 Lincoln Road for Art Basel Miami Beach. Instead of ordering a burger and fries, expect to drive up, order your exclusive fashion fix from the ‘menu’ and wait for a girl on roller-skates to deliver the item to the car. Expect to see items such as Kenzo x Toilet Paper iPhone cases and a Luis Morais ‘Survival Kit’, including a signature bracelet, condoms, lighters and breath mints. What’s not to love? FOR ONE WEEK ONLY (2-8 December).

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