BEYONCE, NEW BRIT FASHION TALENT AND THE REST OF THE WEEK IN FASHION

Posted by Bethan Holt and Maya Peilow

A flurry of last minute 2013 fashion and music happenings this week. No time for sitting back with a mince pie just yet...

NEWGEN and Fashion East winners announced

It's been a great week for Ryan Lo, Claire Barrow and Danielle Romeril who won NEWGEN sponsorship and along with it the chance to showcase to the world the incredible fashion talent which won over the hard-to-please NEWGEN panel- including our very own Melanie Rickey. Helen Lawrence and Louise Alsop also step onto the next rung of the fashion ladder winning support from Lulu Kennedy's fabulous Fashion East. That's some major fresh new talent to look forward to at LFW in February.

Danielle Romeril (via thebestfashionblog.com)

Helen Lawrence (via locallightpolluton.blogspot.com)

Louise Alsop (via catwalkqueen.tv)

Beyonce Day

This Friday 13th has (basically officially) been declared Beyonce Day. The fabulous Bey blindsided the world by releasing an entire album complete with a full set of videos unannounced and with zero promo in the middle of the night. That woman. While we're taking it all in and planning all the occasions this weekend when it's going to be appropriate to play the eponymous album, here's your essential checklist of all the items required to recreate the album in looks:

Denim hot pants (obvs), a silky scarf dress (one for wafting and floating about in which you make look like wings), a pinstripe tuxedo suit, very dark purple lipstick/ nail varnish, a pants plus long sleeve crop top co-ord, stacks of rings, a baker boy cap and a hand chain. Got that?

Congratulations lovely David Koma

Speaking of NEWGEN, it's been a big day for former recipient David Koma who's hot the fashion big time and been appointed Creative Director at Thierry Mugler. Koma's fierce and super sexy design ethos will be the perfect fit for Mugler. Koma steps in to replace Nicola Formichetti whose good friend Lady Gaga famously modelled for the brand during his tenure.

Galliano has a newjob

John Galliano has landed the ultimate luxe drag costume designer gig. It has been confirmed that Galliano will design the costumes for Stephen Fry’s stage adaptation of The Importance of Being Earnest, due to open next year. Galliano pipped Roland Mouret and Sarah Burton who were also rumoured to have been in the running for the job. In addition to directing the production, Fry will play Lady Bracknell.  Galliano joins a line of high fashion designers working on stage costumes; Chanel designed the costumes for Diaghilev’s Le Train Bleu in 1924 and, in 2011, Stefano Pilati, former head designer at Yves Saint Laurent, created the costumes for Harold Pinter’s Betrayal. However, Galliano is well experienced in this field, having dressed Judi Dench in the Lady Bracknell role back in 1982.

Judi Dench in Galliano as Lady Bracknell in 1982 (via zoewanamaker.com)

Après-ski fashionjust got a lot more interesting

One of the top skiing destinations, Courchevel, is about to welcome some new guests. Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Prada boutiques will be taking to the Alpine slopes this winter. Prada’s chalet-like boutique is seated at the bottom of the slopes in Place du Rocher. It was designed by a Prada-loyal architect, Roberto Baciocchi, who has worked with the brand on their other stores. Louis Vuitton will also launch a pop-up at the resort, close to its permanent boutique. The pop-up will showcase a selection of products, including the new Capucines bag, as well as furs and jewellery. You can never have too much Louis Vuitton in one place! Chanel has gone one step further to make sure its arrival at the exclusive ski resort stands out. Karl Lagerfeld has adorned 36 out of 72 cable cars with Chanel sketches. Le ski, c'est chic!

Mango launches plussize range

This week, Mango announced that it would be launching a plus size range, Violeta, in the New Year. The range, set to hit European stores in mid-January, will come in sizes 12 to 24. The Spanish retailer is reported to have recruited a team of experts to address the technical details. The 400-piece collection, modelled by Australian plus-sized model, Robyn Lawley, is intended to be “comfortable, feminine and modern” and will be expanded gradually, with new products added on a monthly basis. The collection will be available online in the UK from 15 January. Our only question is- who decided that a size 12 is plus-sized?

The 12 year old taking the fashion world by storm

When people speak of new and exciting young designers, you expect them to at least be a teenager. But Melissa Jade Aiello, better known as Missy, is only 12 and she’s already making a name for herself in the fashion industry. Having discovered her ability to draw, she set up a t-shirt label at the age of 9 with the aid of her mother, a model booker. She has drawn fashion icons, such as Karl Lagerfeld, Anna Wintour and Donatella Versace, who she described as having “a really interesting face.” Her t-shirts are only available upon request, although she already has plans for expanding her business – she’s added a line of tote bags and is in talks to bring the label to a wider audience. In her own words, “fashion is really important to me because it defines who I am.”

Baby Chanel

This week, Hollywood actress Drew Barrymore confirmed that she is expecting a second baby girl with her husband Will Kopelman. The best bit though- and what sets the news part from your standard snippet of celebrity gossip- is the little one's nickname. The unborn child’s grandfather, Barrymore’s father-in-law, Arie Kopelman used to be chairman of Chanel and so  has declared that his fifth grandchild will be nicknamed Chanel no.5. We wonder how long he's been thinking about that?

THE WEEK IN FASHION: AUGUST 5th-9th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

It's been a good week for short hair, yay! It's all down to Beyonce who only has to post a photo or two on Instagram and the world goes absolutely mad for the idea of chopping all your hair off. Admitedly, if there were ever anyone who was going to convince you to part with your locks, Bey is the one and she does look stunning. If you fancy a drastic cut, then may I recommend Blue Tit. I got a great 'do in their Dalston salon last week by Pont. Last night, they opened up in Peckham too which you will of course be aware in the new Dalston.

Beyonce goes short (via Instagram)

The latest crop of Brit talent is fast-becoming world-renowned, competing with the designer big guns. There have been investments, collaborations and ever more elaborate catwalk shows but what we need now is shops. It seems they could be on their way. Reports this week suggest that Victoria Beckham, Roksanda Ilincic and Christopher Kane might all be opening soon. Kane is looking, Beckham is "discussing" and Ilincic could be moving to Mount Street.

Rachel McAdams wearing futuristic Roksanda Ilincic this week (via uk.lifestyle.yahoo.com)

Speaking of store openings, J.Crew have announced two further London stores in addition to the Regent Street London flagship which looks like it'll open its doors at the start of November. There will be a dedicated menswear shop on Lamb's Conduit street where we can sate cravings for oversized cashmere jumpers from October 10th, though focus will be on shirts, curated guest labels and monogramming. A Brompton Cross space will house limited pieces from the J.Crew Collection plus a selection of brands including Penelope Chilvers and Comme des Garcons. Bring on Autumn and get in the mood by reading Avril Mair's interview with Jenna Lyons in this month's Harper's Bazaar.

From November we can all look like this. Maybe (via peepmystyles.com)

Racism in fashion. An issue which definitely exists but doesn't get talked about nearly enough. Eric Wilson wrote a brilliant, incisive piece examining the situation state side, including interviews with key casting directors and members of the fashion industry who feel like they have been victims of racist treatment. A must-read. Wilson's article comes in conjunction with Oprah Winfrey discussing racist treatment she suffered during a recent trip to Switzerland. Winfrey, one of the world's richest women, told how she was informed that a bag she had asked to see in Swiss boutique Trois Pommes would be "too expensive" for her.

Oprah (via money.cnn.com)

John Galliano may or may not be getting a permanent job at Oscar de la Renta. "We would love to find  a way to work with him" said Alex Bolen, CEO at de la Renta. Watch this space.


The really sad news about two volunteers in Zanzibar being attacked with acid brought back my own memories of going to Tanzania and Zanzibar for a summer a few years ago. I loved it and really hope this doesn't put anyone off going because the place is beautiful and the people kind and funny. While we were there, we took full advantage of the street side tailors who would run you up a made-to-measure skirt in a wonderful print. I wish I'd known about them before going so I could have taken full advantage of their skill. Afua Hirsch's wonderful column about a similar practice in Ghana cleverly hits on the utter genius of having clothes "made to fit our bodies".

Tailoring at work in Ghana (via fashionghana.com)

"Little Black Dress" sounds like an exhibition worth booking a trip to Paris for. It's on until September 22nd so if you're off to the city of light before then, be sure to make time for it. Whet your fashion appetite (or make up for a missed opportunity) by reading Suzy Menkes' look at the many guises of the item every girl and woman needs in her wardrobe.

The most famous LBD ever. Hepburn as Golightly in Givenchy (via weddingstylefileblog.com)

The recent revival in Punk has clearly been good for Dr Martens. It's reminded us about the stompy boots which have become symbols of rebellion and strength since the first pair were made in 1960. If there was one shoe to define the social change which has taken place over the past 50 years it would surely be these? The brand has capitalised on this sentiment for their new campaign which features 13 proud wearers of DMs. They've made this very cool film which makes you feel like you should really get something done this weekend...

THE MANY FACES OF BEYONCE KNOWLES

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Beyonce for H&M by Inez and Vinoodh (via H&M)

Another day, another reincarnation for Beyoncé  a.k.a Mrs Carter a.k.a probably the most fabulous woman on the planet, this time as the face of H&M. It's quite the change of mood after Lana del Rey's sulky, 60s kittenish turn for their Autumn/ Winter campaign. Donald Schneider, H&M's Creative Director, called the new images "an epic fantasy, with glamour, drama and a sense of paradise." That paradise bit probably the consequence of shooting in the Bahamas.

Obviously, Beyoncé is one of the most famous women in the world and must do a trillion photoshoots a month for various campaigns and editorials, but I really feel like H&M have hit on something with their declaration that "all women can be all things: strong, vulnerable, sensual, maternal, fun, flirtatious". It's a contradiction which is not only reassuring and potentially empowering but for which Beyoncé is the perfect poster girl. A fresh way to look at our inclinations to tag/ label/ put people in boxes. 

Beyonce in Miu Miu (www.meltyfashion.fr)

Beyonce, Bow Down (www.spillitnow.com)

As well as her H&M project, Beyoncé also graces the cover of The Gentlewoman's SS13 issue, looking the antithesis of her uber raunched up stage persona. She appears bare faced (and astonishingly beautiful) in this season's key softly minimal looks. There's the Raf Simons ballgown skirt and skinny black jumper which she wears on the cover- shot by Alasdair McLellan on a medium format. Or there's Miu Miu's crop top and denim pencil skirt. It's hard to believe it's the same person who's jutting her body in all kind of impossible to comprehend directions in her videos, or even the one reclining in flower embellished sandals and teeny weeny shorts on a tropical beach for one of the most mass brands in the world. Beyoncé makes them all work. 

Beyonce x The Gentlewoman (thatgrapejuice.net)

Critics might have a pop at Queen Bey for using the word "bitches" loads in her new song, Bow Down. Or even because her new tour defines her as Mrs Carter, which implies (some might argue) her asserting that she is first a wife, second a superstar global idol wonder woman- is there anything wrong with that anyway? In her interview with The Gentlewoman, Beyoncé says "there's not enough of us (female artists) that become moguls". Too true. The biggest lesson to learn from Beyoncé though is, clichéd as it may sound, do what you want, fuck the rest of them. We can't all do that on her scale but even the visual jump from elegantly minimal to tropical beach goddess to vampy Marie Antoinette (in Bow Down) is a reminder of this philosophy. Expect more of the same when the rest of H&M's campaign is released. This so much more than a girl on a beach, it's a woman on a misson. 

BEYONCE MAKES A STAR OF LONDON DESIGNER OSMAN THANKS TO GRAPHIC GRAMMYS JUMPSUIT

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Now here is a story to warm your heart. At the Grammys in Los Angeles last night while Adele wore a flower beaded Valentino haute couture prom dress, and Rihanna worked a flowing red custom made gown by Azzedine Alaia, the indisputable queen of pop Beyonce went off-piste and opted for a crisply tailored black and white jumpsuit by little known across-the-pond London designer Osman. Osman? His full name is Osman Yousefzada, and if you are among those who know little about the British couturier, it won't be for long.

Overnight the Birmingham raised 38-year-old son of migrant Afghan parents, who has been quietly showing his now signature linear, modern tailoring cuts on the London Fashion Week catwalks for six years, has become a name to know in America, and rightly so. He says his cleverly cut clothes are aimed at powerful independent women, and he has an enviable client roster of the kind of elegant professionals designers dream of dressing. These include but are by no means truly represented by Lady Gaga, Tallulah Harlech, the influential art collector Valeria Napoleone, and now Queen Bey herself. 

Osman

"Its pretty amazing really. I didn't expect much of a reaction, but the phone and email has been buzzing with American interest since mid-morning," said the ever-modest Osman from his atelier on London's South Bank today between fittings for his London Fashion Week show this coming Monday. "I knew Beyonce's stylist Raquel Smith had borrowed a couple of pieces from my Los Angeles showroom La Chambre, but I didn't know it was going to happen until ten minutes before..I was in bed trying to get to sleep when it came through on the text." 

"I don't think he quite knew how to react," his London publicist Narmin Mohammadi of The Communications Store told me this afternoon. "He asked me if it was a big a deal as he thought it might be and I was like, YES!!" 

Osman's SS13 monochrome jumpsuit, Beyonce's version is from the selling collection

Gaining attention from the fashion watchers of the wider world is nothing more than Osman deserves. I'm a fan of his seasonal journal The Collective and have ripped out the below pages from his AW12 edition for my study walls.

Ortensia Visconti and Anne-Catherine Frey in The Collective

When I interviewed him for this blog last year he explained what drives him. "I grew up watching women coming and going from my mothers workroom...I think that is why I love dressing women, and no two are the same," he says. "I know the transformative power of well cut clothes, and I guess what I do is work with my experience of women to create the right clothes for them. My method is, well...basically I will bend over backwards to help someone find the right thing. If a client comes to me " - 15% of his business is bespoke, and he has 80 global retail clients - "and needs something in two days, I will do it. I'm a worker. My motto is "I learn by client" which is something I have also heard Azzedine Alaia say, he needs to work on his women in order to keep learning. He is an inspiration to me."    

Visit Osman's website here.