Showing posts with label nicolas ghesquiere leaving balenciaga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nicolas ghesquiere leaving balenciaga. Show all posts

Thursday, May 2, 2013

THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 29th- MAY 3rd

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

The fashion news is coming at you a day early this week as I'm off for a few days break. Luckily, there's plenty to tell you about already with the first of the AW13 ads, pretty costumes and much more.

If anything, this will be the week when Nicolas Ghesquiere finally got his voice heard. After months of radio silence following his departure from Balenciaga, details of two interviews he has given to indy magazines have shed light on his feelings in the run-up to his decision to leave after 15 years at the French design house. First, Business of Fashion ran excerpts from new magazine System's piece. Ghesquiere doesn't hold back:

"It became one frustration after another. It was really that lack of culture which bothered me in the end. The strongest pieces that we made for the catwalk got ignored by the business people. They forgot that in order to get to that easily sellable biker jacket, it had to go via a technically mastered piece that had been shown on the catwalk. I started to become unhappy when I realised that there was no esteem, interest, or recognition for the research that I’d done; they only cared about what the merchandisable result would look like."

The 032c cover via nymag.com/thecut
The second insight we've gleaned is from a mega long (c.14,000 words) feature in Germany's 032C publication. The Cut reports that there are quotes from the likes of Grace Coddington and Hamish Bowles on Ghesquiere's Balenciaga legacy. Kristen Stewart, who wore Ghesquiere's Balenciaga designs extensively on the red carpet, has also given her thoughts on his departure. He clearly shared his feelings with the actress. After his final SS13 show (though nobody knew it at the time), Stewart says, "he had this look like he was actually the kid who was being told he wasn't allowed to do something", seeing that he was unhappy she offered, "I will totally run away with you". 

Later, Ghesquiere himself hints that (thank god) we haven't seen the last of him yet. "I am preparing something, but I have choices to make". 

To add further intrigue to the tale, there are separate rumours of a big development soon. Yesterday, this exchange took place on Twitter...

  1. perhaps there's going to be an announcement about him going somewhere mega very soon???
I've heard a whisper but nothing confirmed...

Watch this space...

In news from a whole other side of the fashion industry, Primark announced this week that they would be offering compensation to all the families of the those affected by the Bangladesh factory collapse in which over 390 people have now been reported dead, with more still missing. The help will include "the provision of long-term aid for children who have lost parents, financial aid for those injured and payments to the families of the deceased." The disaster has prompted responses from across the spectrum, with some fashion editors questioning the provenance of the cheap clothes to which we are, arguably, addicted to the Pope criticising the working conditions of factory workers. 

Miuccia Prada with Carey Mulligan (image courtesy of Prada)
@THELOVEMAGAZINE shared a picture of the Prada/ Gatsby exhibition
The Great Gatsby is finally in proper promo mode after years of build-up. To celebrate, Prada- whose archive pieces made up many of the costumes- is putting on an exhibition entitled Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada dress Gatsby. A selection of outfits to be seen in the film, which will be released in the UK on May 16th, are on show at Prada's "epicentre"in New York until May 12th. They will then go on to Tokyo and Shanghai in June. Prada worked in conjunction with Gatsby's Costume Designer, Catherine Martin to adapt archive designs for Carey Mulligan et al. In an interview with WWD, Mrs Prada acknowledged that she had never specifically intended such broad spectrum of her dresses to fit with the twenties theme. She told Bridget Foley, “that’s what’s interesting. The point of view can transform things so much. Yes, probably a few [dresses] had that kind of edge, but almost none were meant to be the Twenties when I did them. I was really fascinated by that.”

Steven Stipelman's illustrations of The Great Gatsby costumes (via wwd.com)
Back to Balenciaga land once more, this time for the first ad from Alexander Wang. It's a little, well, dark. Wang's first campaign was shot by Steven Klein and apparently stars Kristen McMenamy, although you would never know that given that the model's back is turned and she seems to be about to slip out of the room. Any more than that is difficult to glean. 

Wang's first ad at Balenciaga (image via WWD)
If, like us, you didn't make it along to the Vogue Festival last weekend, then may I recommend these two options for catching up on all the goings-on? Firstly, head to DisneyRollerGirl for a catch-up. Then, you should re-live Natalie Massenet's talk about how she went from LA girl to Net-a-Porter fashion web retail extraordinaire by reading from start to finish through the Instagram feed nataporter_mystorysofar. It'll probably take you half an hour or so and you'll learn loads. 

One of Natalie Massenet's instagrams... On set as a Production Assistant on Charles Bronson's "Kinjite"
In the eeewest piece of fashion news for a while, Lady Gaga apparently once returned a Mugler dress covered in semen. There were plenty of virtual disgusted faces at this revelation. However, Fashionista is today saying that semen is really not the worst of it. PRs have tales of period and pee related return incidents. Sad times for precious sample gowns.

You've watched the lovely parties, the car crashes and the snarky wit of Dame Maggie Smith as the Dowager Duchess, now it looks like you'll be able to wear the clothes. Given that we get "Get Downton Style" press releases on an almost daily basis, this seems like a very canny idea from the series producers. “It’s very rare for a British drama to have this much retail potential and merchandising value” executive producer Gareth Neame said.

Downton dress loveliness (via huffingtonpost.co.uk)
Finally, this week's abdication celebrations in the Netherlands were an old school fashion extravaganza, with royals from all over the world gathering to see Queen Beatrix hand the crown to her son, now King Willem Alexander. Here are five brilliant fashion pictures for your royal scrapbook from the occasion. Happy Bank Holiday!

Willem-Alexander's wife, Maxima, on the cover of Vogue Netherlands (via glossynewsstnd.com)
Our Camilla in Bruce Oldfield and Phillip Treacey(via nymag.com)

Queen Beatrix (via nymag.com)
The new King and Queen. She's wearing Jan Taminiau (via dailymail.co.uk)
Sheikh Mozah of Qatar in Valentino
And, those poor Princesses...

(via dailymail.co.uk)

Friday, November 9, 2012

THE WEEK IN FASHION: NOVEMBER 5th-9th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Drama is never far around the corner in the world of fashion and this week has been no different, with  plenty of glamour, rumour and quite frankly jaw dropping development. here's all you need to know...

The week's biggest story has been the news that Nicolas Ghesquière is to leave Balenciaga, effective from November 30th. Thus the rumour mill, which had been given a little respite in recent months following the appointment of Raf Simons at Dior and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent, cranked up to full speed once more. Many, including Simon Chilvers at The Guardian, have expressed their desire to see Ghesquière take over from Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel as when the time comes. However, Lagerfeld himself has now put in his two pennies' worth, saying that it would be a good idea for Ghesquière to launch his own label, perhaps with the backing of LVMH. Meanwhile, a host of names have been suggested as possible replacements for Ghesquière, among them Christopher Kane, Joseph Altuzarra and Alexander Wang. This trio are already well on their way to establishing strong labels of their own and so may not want to abandon that mission for the Balenciaga job. Lesser known names in the mix include Kostas Murkidis, Boucha Jarrar and Ghesquière's current first assistant Natacha Ramsay. Of course, there is still the ongoing mystery surrounding Diego Della Valle's choice of designer to head up the revival of Schiaparelli, now scheduled for next year. LFW's very own Erdem is one of the favourites for that role. Never a dull moment.
A rather Chanel-ish look from from Nicolas Ghesquiere's
final Balenciaga collection (catwalking.com)
It's been a big week for Rihanna. She accidentally leaked, via Instagram, a series of images of her and Kate Moss in a raunchtastic photo shoot for V magazine's March 2013 issue. Not that anyone's complaining...

Rihanna and Kate Moss by Mario Testino #1

Rihanna and Kate Moss by Mario Testino #2
The night before that little incident, RiRi took to the stage at the world famous annual Victoria's Secret Show in New York where she performed alongside the world's most in-demand top models, including Miranda Kerr, Doutzen Kroes and Alessandra Ambrosio. It was a big night for the Brits as well as Jourdan Dunn and Cara Delevingne joined the line-up. The show lived up to its extravagant reputation, with a bra costing $2.5 million making it down the catwalk. The lingerie giant also donated $1 million to the Hurricane Sandy relief effort.

The "Angels" backstage (dailymail.co.uk)
Cara Delevingne makes her Victoria's Secret debut (dailymail.co.uk)

Doutzen Kroes accompanies Rihanna down the catwalk (us magazine.com)
Finally, the wait is over. Admit it, you've been counting the days. Kardashian Kollection has hit the UK and is now for sale at good old Dorothy Perkins. Now we can *finally* get the Kim/ Khloe/ Kourtney look but what to choose? Something leopard print? Something fringed? Something lacy? I"ve a funny feeling the girls who have officially given the humble, mid-alphabet letter "K" a whole new lease of life might advise "All of it, all at once". Shop the Kollection here.

Get the Kardashian look (image via guardian.co.uk)
In other high street collection news, Debenhams is to revive the iconic label Ossie Clark, whose brilliantly printed (by Celia Birtwell), frilled, full-length gowns came to symbolise the romantic mood of  the 60s and 70s.  The jury's out on whether Debenhams can really do justice to Ossie's legacy. Look out for re-worked versions of original designs as well as new interpretations. Something tells me there'll never be anything quite like an Clark/ Birtwell original.
Pattie Boyd and Twiggy wearing Ossie Clark in Vogue, 1969 (via http://herwayofpraying.tumblr.com)

She's not the first and she won't be the last but Sienna Miller is the latest celebrity to be captured nude in the final stages of preganacy. She was painted by Jonathan Yeo who will exhibit the work at his upcoming I've Got You (Under My Skin) show in Berlin. Naturally, Miller looks incredible. 
Sienna Miller by Jonathan Yeo
So, it turns out that Lana del Rey won't be the new face of Versace after last week's apparent clues that this would be songstress's next move. However, it seems that MIA could be in the line to work with the super glamorous Italian label, in what capacity is not yet clear apart from the fact that the singer otherwise known as Maya Arulpragasam has files on her computer containing "Versace outlines". Watch this space...

MIA works Versace (guardian.co.uk)

Finally, a treat awaits us. Chanel model Gaspard Ulliel has been chosen to play Yves Saint Laurent in a new biopic of the designer's life. Fashion history and eye candy, bring it on. Happy Weekend!
Bonjour Gaspard! (wwd.com)

Monday, November 5, 2012

BREAKING FASHION NEWS: NICOLAS GHESQUIERE LEAVING BALENCIAGA

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Nicolas Ghesquière by Irving Penn (image via Vogue.com)
PPR has this afternoon announced that Nicolas Ghesquière, who has been Creative Director at Balenciaga since 1997, will be leaving at the end of this month. Despite his long tenure, the news comes as something as a surprise after fashion's recent period of "musical chairs" seemed to have settled down. Indeed, amid the excitement of the debut collections from Raf Simons at Dior and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent last month, Nicole Phelps ended her glowing review of Balenciaga SS13 with a statement underlining the house's importance in the Paris mix...

"What Ghesquière did today was a reminder to us all that Paris fashion isn't a two-man game."

SS13 flounces from Nicholas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga
Rumour has it that Ghesquière has been holed up in New York during the Sandy chaos and was spotted shopping in Barney's and "holding court in [the] tea room" (via @JillKargman). There has been plenty of praise for Ghesquière from key industry figures as news broke...


Thank you Nicolas for bringing back all Cristobal Balenciaga’s values and creativity. Read more: 

Nicolas Ghesquière &  are to part ways at the end of this month after a spectacular 15 year collaboration that shaped 00s fashion

Very depressing news for my well-off, fashionable fans of avant garde, conceptual French fashion: Nicolas Ghesquière to leave Balenciaga.

Nicolas Ghesquiere unarguably one of the biggest talents in fashion leaving Balenciaga where he has been incredible 

There is already speculation that Stefano Pilati, who recently left Yves Saint Laurent and had landed a post at Ermenegildo Zegna might be a prime candidate to take the reins. Watch this space...