YVES SAINT LAURENT: L'AMOUR FOU

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It seems like barely a week goes by in the world of fashion without some new comments about the huge pressures faced by designers; after McQueen and Galliano there is definitely a sense of unease about the way the creative minds at the helm of big fashion houses can cope with the deadlines they are always up against.

YSL with Pierre Bergé (image from changefashion.net)


A clip from L'Amour Fou- click to see full screen

 Thus when I watched 'L'Amour Fou', the new documentary about the life of Yves Saint Laurent, this weekend, these debates came to mind once again as Laurent's partner, Pierre Bergé, described the designer's fragile mental health and tumultuous relationship with drugs and alcohol during the 70s, 80s and 90s. Directed by Pierre Thoretton, this wasn't so much a tale of pressure, depression and addiction, but a love story. Everyone needs a Pierre Bergé in their life.

Yves Saint Laurent with his models

©Pierre Boulat Courtesy Association Pierre & Alexandra Boulat

This is a documentary about Yves Saint Laurent but you hardly hear his voice at all. The commentary of his career is provided instead by Bergé (whom YSL first met at the funeral of Christian Dior) and Laurent's muses Betty Catroux and Loulou De La Falaise. That in itself is illuminating; Bergé is the supportive lover, scorned during the worst of his partner's troubles while Catroux paints herself as a partner in misery for the designer with whom she would often discuss the hellishness of life. 

Yves with Betty Catroux (from houseofmcnairy.com)

 The documentary was made after Yves Saint Laurent's death and even begins with scenes from his funeral. From the outset, therefore, he is a ghostly presence rather than a protagonist. So this is a huge contrast to something like 'The Last Emperor' in which Valentino is categorically the star. But I wouldn't say that's a downfall to the film at all because those who knew him best paint an enchanting image one of the most gifted designers ever. It also makes the moments when archive footage of YSL is shown all the more poignant; one of my favourites is an interview in which he states his favourite quality in a man is 'body hair' and that earthly happiness is 'a full bed'.The combination of anecdotes and archival footage depict Saint Laurent as funny, eccentric and charming during his best times. 

Yves Saint Laurent in 1969 (image from hautefashionafrica.com)

 However, I came away from 'L'Amour Fou' feeling like Pierre Bergé was the best thing about it. It's not often that the supporting act gets a look-in but Yves Saint Laurent could never have been the fashion game changer he was, at least not so successfully, without Bergé. In his own right, Bergé has achieved an awful lot, particularly in the fight against AIDS. He has been appointed a UN Goodwill Ambassador and has been a longtime supporter of the political left in France.

Bergé at the funeral of Yves Saint Laurent in June 2008

 The film is structured around the sale of the couple's vast collection of art, lovingly amassed as soon as they became wealthy enough to do so. One of YSL's most famous designs is the Mondrian inspired dress but when that was created, Bergé remembers that actually owning a Mondrian was a distant dream for the couple. In parts the film becomes a little slow as it somewhat dryly shows shots of all the art which is to be sold off, only adding to the eeriness of YSL's absence. But then the ending is a quite astounding montage of the auction, Bergé looks on as much of the material gain of his life with Yves is sold off to buyers willing to pay millions. The proceeds from the sale are divided between The Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, Bergé himself and a number of the charities which the couple supported. And what clinches this as a love story? Bergé's analogy that many would see the auction as him purging the evidence of his half century with Saint  Laurent but for him those millions are nothing compared to the sharing of a life, and the ending which came with Saint Laurent's death. For lovers of fashion and great love stories, this is a must-see.

L'Amour Fou is released today in the UK. Buy it here. Clip courtesy of Studio Canal.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 14th-18th NOVEMBER

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's a case of fashion mirroring life this week as we bring you news of births and deaths and, er, rebirths. It's been pretty dramatic actually.

Tom Ford SS12

American Vogue has just released the very first pictures of Tom Ford's SS12 collection (photographed by the multitalented Mr Ford himself). The former Gucci designer had decreed that the designs he showcased in a highly exclusive catwalk show should not be seen until now to avoid people becoming bored of them before they were available to buy. However, he suffered something of a backlash when fashion editors including The Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley and Le Figaro's Virginie Mouzat wrote negative reviews not only of the clothes but also of that approach to showing. Sarah Mower's interview with Ford, which is posted beneath the pictures, reveals that Ford will revert to intimate showroom presentations for his next collection, emphasising the necessity to explain each look in detail. Furthermore, Ford claims that he designs in response to what his customers want, hence all the flounced mini dresses. Now that we can see for ourselves, what are your thoughst?

Tom Ford SS12

Tom Ford SS12 (All images from American Vogue)

Evelyn, her husband Leonard and Estée (from WWD)

On Sunday, the sad news arrived that Evelyn Lauder, daughter in law of Estée, had died at the age of 75 from Ovarian Cancer, having suffered Breast Cancer in the past. Evelyn not only played an instrumental role in growing Estée Lauder from a small family business into one of the world's biggest beauty companies but she also made a profound contribution to raising awareness and funds for Breast Cancer Research. In 1989, she was diagnosed with the disease and went on to spearhead the Pink Ribbon campaign which has now become a widely recognised symbol of support. The fact that Evelyn's childhood was marred by her family's escape from Nazi-occupied Europe only makes her lifetime achievements more incredible. The New York Times' obituary has some fascinating insights into Evelyn's life.

The Lauder family. Evelyn is seated, hugged by her son. Estée is in the white hat (from WWD)

In happier news, it's time to congratulate Julia Restoin Roitfeld, daughter of Carine, who's expecting her first baby. Somehow we can't imagine Carine sitting down to knit booties or change a nappy quite yet but I think we can safely say that this could be the best dressed grandchild on the planet once it arrives in May. A day out with Grandma Roitfeld could involve anything from sitting FROW at fashion week to crawling around on a Chanel shoot... Lucky babes!

Julia with boyfriend and baby daddy, Robert Konjic (image from thevoguediaries.com)

Versace Couture SS09 (images from audreysworld.blogspot.com)

 This week has, let's admit it, been rather dominated by the launch of Versace's collection for H&M. Just a couple of days before the brand went high street, it was announced that they would be swinging right back the other way in January with the re-introduction of a couture show. It's set to take place on January 23rd, the first day of the couture week. WWD points out that Versace has still been doing couture during its seven year absence from the schedule, opting to keep to more discreet appointments. I guess now that the world is buzzing with Versace frenzy, it's a good time to capitalise on keeping up the momentum. I can't imagine we'll see the queues we saw yesterday though!

Versace Couture SS09

Marc Jacobs' SS12 London press day had to be cancelled yesterday after the collection was stolen during its journey from Paris. Some have pointed the finger at counterfeiters who might be out to copy the collection.  Or could it be a sneaky ploy by Dior HQ to harangue Jacobs into becoming their Head Designer? Whoever the culprits are, one thing's for sure- they will be easily identified by their translucent flapper dresses and general 'thirties meets future' vibe. No word of a reward for information as yet...

Missing: Have you seen this Marc Jacobs SS12? (Image from www.lloyd-evans.com)

The best ad campaigns are the ones which get everyone talking; Benetton have certainly achieved that this week with their latest set of images which depict world-famous figures kissing one another. If you can see the lighter side of the world's current woes then these are very entertaining. However, the Vatican were not in a humorous mood about the image which shows the Pope in embrace with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb, an Egyptian Grand Sheik. The Guardian reports that Fr Federico Lombardi said: "We must express the firmest protest for this absolutely unacceptable use of the image of the Holy Father, manipulated and exploited in a publicity campaign with commercial ends. This shows a grave lack of respect for the pope, an offence to the feelings of believers, a clear demonstration of how publicity can violate the basic rules of respect for people by attracting attention with provocation." There is a deeper message to Benetton's images though; they support Unhate which is campaigning for a world free from hate culture, what's to object to about that?

The Pope with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb

Angela Merkel and Nicholas Sarcozy get cosy (Images from dailymail.co.uk)

 On Sunday, the surprise news emerged that Tamara Mellon would be leaving her role at Jimmy Choo, the company she has ushered from small time cobbler to one of the world's best known accessories brands. On Sunday evening, there was an impeccably timed advert for Jimmy Choo perfume during X Factor which starred Mellon herself. A firm reminder to those in the industry that she knows exactly how to play the game. Speculation that Mellon will be launching her own name brand before too long is already mounting. The fashion world's eyes are sure to be closely watching how Jimmy Choo and Tamara Mellon get on without one another. Lisa Armstrong is sure that we should expect plenty more from Mellon...

Mellon starring in Jimmy Choo's perfume campaign (image from nytimes.com)

In case you hadn't noticed, Lady Gaga has been in the UK this week and while she's here she has been taking advantage of the opportunity to showcase designs by some of London's finest. It must have been love at first sight for Gaga and the Roksanda Ilincic dress which she was seen out and about in just an hour after it was sent to her on Wednesday! She's also worn two outfits from Osman Yousefzada's SS12 collection and a look from Simone Rocha's first standalone collection which comprised a beautiful array of trapped lace pieces. It looks like Gaga has developed her look recently after parting from her long time stylist and collaborator Laurieann Gibson earlier this month. Here at FEAL, we're loving the Gaga London look, long may it continue!

Gaga in Simone Rocha (image from graziadaily.co.uk)

In Osman (image from telegraph.co.uk)

In Roksanda Ilincic (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Sample Sale Alert! Next Friday 25th November, Mawi jewellers will be having a massive sample sale with up to 80% off usual prices. It'll be at MAWI STUDIO, 2, Nimrod Passage, London. N1 4BU from 9am to 8pm. Just in time for Christmas!

This necklace will be reduced from £810 to £300

This L'Wren Scott dress is $999 from $2145; in ££ that's about £500.... not bad. Gilt.com

Last night the FashEd had dinner with Kevin Ryan and Alexandra Wilkis Wilson the founder and co-founder of the hugely successful American flash sale site gilt.com at the Savoy. The occasion was the firm making its discounted stock available for UK and European shipping for the first time. Think of the site as TK Maxx online, but whereas TK Maxx run their shops with a less is more approach, Gilt.com is a slick package, and trying to make discounted luxury feel sexy and special.


Joining the site is free, and once a UK member you can log on every day at 5pm to gain access to 20 flash sales. What fun. Today’s bargains come from, among others, L’Wren Scott. You have to but in $$ but with the current exchange rate, this is a good thing! We would encourage you to join now at Gilt.com.

WHO'S BUYING VERSACE FOR H&M?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The amount of hype surrounding Versace's collaboration with H&M has been nothing short of immense. There was the the elaborate launch party in New York last week, posters all over the place and a commercial featuring Donatella herself which has been showing during prime time slots like The X-Factor. The point of all this was quite blatantly to make sure that there would be queues of people lined up this morning to get their hands on a little bit of high street Donatella. The Queue has become a phenomenon of the H&M collaboration story, but The Queue is not a singular thing- it is made up of individuals who all have their own reasons for being a part of it. This morning I went along to the Oxford Circus store, just down the road from the Regent Street opening where Donatella and Lady Gaga made appearances. Despite the lack of celebrity, The Queue still stretched right around the block. I was really interested to find out who was in The Queue and why... I expected a variety of reasons but was completely fascinated by the broad appeal which this collaboration seems to have. Readers, meet The Queue...

1. Hikaru, 24, Works at CyberDog in Camden

Hikaru's J.W Anderson-esque boots are from Japan

'I've been here since 8 this morning. I think the clothes are gorgeous- this will be my first piece of Versace, I love that they're making it accessible. I also came and bought the Lanvin collaboration last year, but I've never queued like this before. I want to buy the black and white zig-zag t-shirt. I look really bad today but I had to get up early to come here, I even dragged my friend along'

2. Joan, 60, Local Authority Commissioner.

'I've come to buy Christmas presents for my daughter and my son's girlfriend- they're both 23/24 but it's a bit OTT for me so I won't be getting anything for myself! My son's girlfriend is at Manchester University and students get to know about these things. I don't know much about Versace, I know the emblem. I didn't get here too early, about 8.40, but my son is up ahead of me in the queue. He's going to buy something for himself. His style is usually quite retro and all this is a bit glittery for him but I think he's going to get a shirt. We're getting the leggings and some jewellery for the girls. I've taken the day off work especially to come!'

Luis in the bomber he hadn't planned to buy

I found Joan with her son, Luis, a bit later. He'd already been allowed in for the menswear and had got himself the bomber jacket 'because everyone was going for it- it was such a cattle rush'. He was waiting to go in again with his Mum to get their hands on the womenswear.

4. Akosua, 21, Freelance Photographer and Brenda, 19, a Footwear Student at Cordwainers.

Akosua (left) and Brenda

 Akosua: 'I thought the commercial was amazing- that completely drew me here. It made me want to get my hands on MY designer piece- I really want the leggings and the bomber jacket. I find most collaborations rubbish- they look so high street but to me this one seems outside the box. It looks like authentic Versace. I know that dress that Liz Hurley wore and the one Jennifer Lopez wore- they're what you think of when you think of Versace and this collection actually looks like that. I really didn't like the Lanvin collaboration'

Brenda: 'I want the leggings and the bomber too. I won't be buying the boots- I've got such high standards with shoes I don't think they'd be right but I'm just excited to be here. We got up at 5 but had loads of stress so didn't get here til 8'

5. Ardy, 38, Head of Jewellery at Phillips Auction House

Former model Ardy

'This is like going back to my roots in the 80s. I was a model in Paris and Versace was everywhere so this is really nostalgic for me. This collection looks really fun but it's also reasonable. I think it's going to be more collectible than your average Versace as well. I used to go to Miami a lot and I would see Gianni around a lot so this is really like going back to my youth and the Versace brand was a big part of that. I think everyone's done so well sleeping out, I wouldn't have done that.'

6. Cornelia, 23, Merchandising student at London College of Fashion

'I wanted to experience the H&M queue. I've lived all over the world in Australia, Thailand, South Africa and have never been anywhere where there's an H&M when these things happen. I'm not mad about the clothes- they're not really my style, it's more about seeing it all. I'm going to get the scarf because then I have something and it'll be a wardrobe staple but I think the clothes will date really quickly. I know a bit about Versace, about Gianni being shot. I think this collection is showing what the brand is all about. My friend is in Switzerland trying to buy it online and it keeps crashing apparently'

7. Tobi, 21, English student at Goldsmiths

 'I heard about this about a month ago and I could see it was like the Classic Versace. I'm really into 90s hip- hop and this has all those classic emblems. I'm really here for the style. I didn't know that much about Versace but I've been learning more recently- it's such a powerhouse. All the clothes are just like what everyone in the hip hop and urban community wears. It reminds me of Biggy Smalls (The Notorious B.I.G) and recently people like Lady Gaga and Kanye West have been bringing it all back. I never usually get up before noon so this is a big thing for me- nobody thought I could do it!'

8. Rhandes, 25, Runs a Fashion Marketing business

 'I just wanted to come along and check it out and take some pictures. I will be buying a few pieces too- I really want the pink dress with stars on. I'm going to buy my husband some shirts too. He's at home sick in bed and he keeps calling me every five minutes to see if I'm in yet. I think Versace clothes are so original and vibrant and vivid. I don't know loads about the brand's history but I'm interested in art and I can see how they use that. My favourite designers are Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford which I guess are a bit different. I tried to queue for the Cavalli collection but that was just too manic'

9. Jay, 20, Business Management Student

 'I love all the H&M collaborations. I completely loved the Lanvin collection. It's not so much about the designer for but the fact that it's in H&M so it's a good price. I have some Prada clothes but I mostly just think of myself as a normal girl who likes to be on trend. I know that if I buy some dresses from the Versace collection then I'll be trendy. I really trust H&M'

10. Leonardo, 23, Italian and Spanish student and Eva, 30, Fashion Design student

Leonardo: 'I always, always come when a new H&M collaboration launches. I was here for Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel... alll of them! I just love fashion and this makes it so accessible. I'm definitely here to buy the name. We've been here since 11 last night. I'd been on the Vogue website and planned everything I wanted to buy- I made a list. I got everything I wanted apart from the boxers so we're off to another store now to find those. My favourite designers are McQueen, Galliano and Marc Jacobs- I just love fashion'

Leonardo was wearing his Lanvin t-shirt (along with McQueen scarf and Vuitton bag)

 Eva: 'I checked the clothes and the fabrics are nasty, so synthetic. But I don't mind that . We buy this high street crap all the time but it's special if it has a designer name on it- the label! I usually despise loud prints but Versace has a way of making me love them'

WHAT THEY'RE BUYING:

Everything seems to be sold out now on the H & M site, but as some commenters have said, there's plenty available at inflated prices on ebay. Here's what everyone I spoke to wanted to buy (or had bought)...

Furry waistcoat £39.99

Bomber £69.99

Palm print leggings  £24.99

Pink dress £129.99

Earrings £19.99

From the men's collection...

Black/ White optical illusion jumper £49.99

 

 

THE GOSPEL ACCORDING TO CARMEN

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Carmen with Norman Parkinson in 1959. This picture was taken by Bronson Hartley, who createted the diving helmets.

 Last night, I had an experience rather akin to meeting your Fairy Godmother. I popped into the preview of London College of Fashion's new exhibition 'Carmen: A Life in Fashion'. Despite the many people much more important than myself who were clamouring to have a moment with Carmen Dell'Orefice, whose career has spanned over more than 60 years, I did manage to grab a  few moments in the velvety presence of the woman who is called The World's Oldest Supermodel. I cannot put into words Carmen's beauty and luminosity; she is like a superior, superhuman creature; a Queen Bee.Yet, in conversation she is a purveyor of compassionate words and is not afraid to share all the wisdom she has gathered over a lifetime in fashion.

Carmen shot by Tim Petersen in 2010

Another recent Tim Petersen shot

 When I asked her which decade was her favourite, out of all those she has worked through, she said NOW is the most exciting time for her. I can see the logic of this; when most people her age are enjoying their dotage and slowing down, she is doing something very different by continuing to work (realistically, this is perhaps more out of necessity than choice).

Carmen with Horst P Horst 1947

 She is blazing her own trail without really knowing where it might take her, a feeling most twenty-somethings are probably used to, less so her eighty year old contemporaries. Despite the fact that her most recent return to work was due to losing her life savings to Bernie Madoff, she insists that rather than being financially motivated, the continuation is part of a her ongoing reinvention of herself. 'Eighty to 100 will be be my most fascinating years!'.

Carmen in the early 1940s

This attitude is also reflected in the story of LCF's exhibition. Carmen's friend, the fashion illustrator David Downton, was at her apartment in New York and came across boxes full of photos from her career, stuffed away beneath her bed. Somebody who was more nostalgic might have carefully filed all their work but Carmen is no such woman.

From 1959, with under the bed crumples.

 Some of the photographs in the exhibition have little tears or marks where sellotape has been ripped off them. These are all endearing signs that Carmen's mind is firmly in the moment, rather than fussing about preserving the past. She was also incredibly enthusiatic about the prospect of her photographs being exhibited in the LCF space where young creatives have access to her archive and can be inspired.

Carmen dell'Orefice, photgraphed by Cecil Beaton in 1946 (Image from flickr.com)

 One of my favourite images from the exhibition is the Cecil Beaton, above, from 1946. It struck me that this could easily have been an editorial from 2012, showcasing Spring/Summer Erdem or Louis Vuitton. When I asked Carmen for her thoughts about this, she dismissively pointed out that 'Fashion is always being recycled'. She often has people tell her that 'they want to be just like her'. This is unsurprising given how in her presence, one feels enveloped in a cashmere blanket of glamour, a highly inimitable trait. But she retorts 'You weren't like me twenty years ago, why would you want to be like me now?'.

Carmen values the individuality of Daphne Guinness, who she says has made herself into a 'walking object'. "Daphne knows herself and has uncompromisingly taken that all the way," she says. Carmen believes we should all adopt our own version of this attitude; she tells me that she is always refining herself and casting a critical eye.

I shall leave you with Carmen's mantras, which she told me as she squeezed my hand, a truly magic moment:

Her style tip: 'Always be eliminating elements of your look, but don't tell anybody what you've eliminated, so that you have a mystery'

Have Courage

Don't be a sheep; 'I don't admire Daphne Guinness as such, but I do value her point of view on herself'

Know yourself and be who you truly are.

Live for now. I'm excited about now, why would I look back?

Live fearlessly.

.... Amen to that. 

'Carmen: A Life in Fashion' is on at London College of Fashion on John Princes Street from November 16th until January 14th- best of all, it's free!

Unless otherwise indicated, all images are kind courtesy of London College of Fashion.

HOW SWEET IS HARVEY NICHOLS?

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Just back from the Harvey Nichols press day. Like all great department stores this one is a global institution, and a national treasure with branches across Britain. Therefore their press day is an opportunity to see what fashion lovers in Edinburgh, Birmingham, Manchester and London will gain access to next Spring. One of my discoveries is so fabulous I'm saving her until tomorrow for an in-depth look at her work, but the best of the rest is here for your pleasure...

Below is a truly spectacular print from young New York based Parisian Jospeh Altuzarra who won American fashion's most prestigious new talent award, the $300,000 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, last night. The pocket diva is going to be huge! Trust. One thing is for sure, his sexy tropicana chic will be a welcome lift when it hits the store next spring. Just how awesome is this print?

The print above came from a dress v similar to this one. (via catwalking.com)

Hello Joseph!  Lookin hawt in one of your dresses, yes? (from W Magazine via holymoly.com)

Joseph Altuzarra was not present at Harvey Nichols' press day. He was probably nursing a celebratory hangover in NYC but other designers of note were in attendance at the store. Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff, the designers behind Meadham Kirchhoff, turned up to see how Harvey Nichols, which had taken as inspiration for its press day their saccharine sweet Spring/Summer 2012 show. had handled it. Cue several arches of pastel coloured balloons, candy-floss, a balloon lady (see below) and lots of Meadham Kirchhoff's sickly-sweet Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Ben + Ed were on typical form. They informed me thay have a new PR, Black Frame in London and they are the only client of the London office. Black Frame reps Rodarte in New York. Things are definitely looking on the up and up for these two.

 Sweetie-pie chic by Meadham Kirchhoff at Harvey Nichols

Meadham Kirchhoff inspired Harvey Nichols to hire Twistina the Amazing Balloon Lady. She was ace!

Lastly, my third (but not final) inspirational Harvey Nicks  moment of the day was the young model and illustrator Naomi Preizler who created the little take-away sum-up of the press day below. She uses herself as a model in this illustration, but is also known to sketch fellow models backstage at the shows. She doesn't have a website for her illustration work, but hopefully this is only a matter of time. 

Naomi Preizler (Image from Marie Maud)