THE CADBURY COLOUR PURPLE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Cadbury purple, less commonly known as Pantone 265c, has been on our collective visual radar for the past 100 years, ever since the Birmingham chocolate company switched the colour of its packaging in tribute to Queen Victoria's favourite colour. We're used to seeing it, ripping it, scrunching it and gifting it but how about wearing it?

Cadbury purple at Balenciaga (via catwalking.com)

lilac at Christopher Kane (via catwalking.com)

At the latest round of SS14 shows, there was lots and lots of lilac. If anything's going to move us on from pink next summer then it will be a pretty light purple- lilac ball gown skirts, lilac sweatshirts, lilac denim, lilac anything and everything. But coinciding with Cadbury's long-running legal battle to secure copyright on its signature hue came a smattering of true deep dark purple outfits which made me think, very shallowly obviously, that I would really like to buy some purple clothes soon. Cadbury even sent a model down to LFW dressed in a Cadbury purple dress to promote their cause but still unfortunately lost their five year fight. Nevertheless, I still think that we will always associate the colour of Dairy Milk bars and Milk Tray boxes with Cadbury rather any random given confectioner who decides to jump on the purple bandwagon.

Cadbury purple crops up in the new Wes Anderson (via itsnicethat.com)

Cadbury purple at MaxMara (via catwalking.com)

Marc Jacobs uniform jackets for SS14 (via catwalking.com)

Anyway, I was reminded of this new fashion need again this afternoon when I clicked through to the trailer of The Grand Budapest Hotel, Wes Anderson's latest offering. Lo and behold, the lead character Gustave H is a hotel manager and he, along with all the other members of staff at The Grand Budapest, wears Cadbury-coloured uniforms which also have a hint of the Marc Jacobs SS14 Victorian jacket about them. These are niche fashion observations I know but it never fails to amuse me how various cultural threads can chime together so that it seems like they might have been planned. The hotel is even this season's candy pink in case you're not ready to move on to lilac and purple yet! Now I know that that purple thing I want is a shiny-buttoned uniform jacket.

The Grand Budapest Hotel is Wes Anderson's new film (via itsnicethat.com)

THE HAT FOR NOW: A TURBAN

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

We're backing the turban as the headwear of the Summer. Ok, so they might not be so street as a Rihanna-favourite cap nor so easy as a straw panama but, damn, are they chic. A turban is the kind of hat which works on the beach but also on a rainy Saturday night when you're going out clubbing and can't be bothered to do your hair. Basically, they're fabulous.

Chloe Sevigny in turban and Proenza Schouler
at the Met Ball (image via glamour magazine.co.uk)

What has prompted us to think about turbans now? If any of you have visited & Other Stories' London store, then you will probably have seen how they have a bikini and turban matching set by Abigail Lorick. They have had it displayed for some time on the table you pass as you go up the stairs in the London store, well they did at least until I went in a couple of weeks ago. I've seen it so many times (do I sound obsessed?) that it has planted a seed for how I'd like to look when I finally make it to the beach in July. Sort of like someone out of a Slim Aarons photograph, please. Chloe Sevigny livened up her Proenza Schouler Met Ball dress with a black turban which took it from perfectly nice (though very un-punk) to something really rather Gloria Swanson-like. Funnily enough, Sevigny's mate Marc Jacobs cited Swanson as an inspiration for his decadently glamourous Autumn/Winter collection. All Sevigny needed was a stonking huge diamond brooch at the front of her turban to look proper 30s socialite.

Camilla Batmanghelidjh in one of her fantastic turbans (image via royalacademy.org)

Some of the most originally stylish well-known women in the world are keen proponents of the turban. Sheikha Mozah, a wife of the Emir of Qatar, has regularly appeared at state occasions across the world in turbans made to match her choice of outfit, usually a sleek column in piercingly bright purple or understated grey or navy. She brings a fresh slant to Islam's modest dress codes. Kids Company founder Camilla Batmanghelidjh co-ordinates her rainbow coloured turbans with  her multicoloured robes and scarves to dazzling effect. She always looks like she might be on her way to some wild celebratory festival. These two women are proof of the turban's brilliance; Sheikha Mozah is about elegance while Batmanghelidjh is all colour and fun, but neither would look right to us now without their respective takes on turbans. Proof that you can make the humble head wrap completely your own.

Sheikha Mozah (nourphoria-journal.blogspot.com)

A TUMBLE OF TURBANS

Juergen Teller for Celine with Daria Werbowy

Michelle Harper via nymag/thecut

Turbans in Vogue 

The coolest way to wear a turban now via thesartorialist.com

Vogue, 1965

THREE GREAT TURBANS TO BUY:

ASOS, £12

Eugenia Kim at Net-a-Porter, £250

Turban hat, £45, & Other Stories

LEARN HOW TO BE AN AW13 LADY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

PRADA AW13

 When Autumn comes- which WILL be after we've had a lovely long, warm summer, please weather man- fashion will be all about dressing like a lady. This will mean only the most luxurious of fabrics, think silk, velvet, cashmere and fur. Lengths will be demure- the ideal skirt being a slim-fitting, calf length pencil. Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada were both really pushing this look at their respective shows, however there was something not quite, completely lady. "It's like the most glamourous walk of shame ever" Jacobs exclaimed, alluding to the darker side of his primly-attired but bed-head hair models. Meanwhile, the most-used phrase to describe the Prada show has been "done, undone". So while there were all the elements of a meticulously elegant, pulled together outfit, the hair was wet and dresses were slipping off the shoulders. There was potential for supreme ladydom on the AW13 catwalks, but designers were playing with it.

The catwalk fashion zeitgeist collides perfectly with the BBC four programme schedule tonight as Rachel Johnson explores "How to be a Lady". The former editor of "The Lady" (and sister of Boris) will learn ladylike pursuits such as riding side saddle. No doubt the headmistress of Cheltenham Ladies College, an establishment which Johnson visits, would balk at the towel dried hair or unbuttoned jumpers on show for AW13. Never mind, now's the night to learn.

How to be a Lady is on BBC 4 at 9pm tonight

LOUIS VUITTON AW13

IS IT OK TO WEAR FUR NOW?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

I only ask because there is so much of the stuff appearing on the catwalks this Autumn. The fuzzy effect is in practically every major collection but what is so striking is the number of designers who are using real fur to express that idea.

Let me say early on that I am not necessarily pro or anti-fur. In fact, I find the whole issue profoundly confusing. I don't quite understand how anyone who eats meat can then make judgement against someone who chooses to wear fur. As recent news events show, we never truly know what meat it is that we're eating, unless you always buy from a local, trusted butchers who prepare cuts themselves. It is far too black and white to say that leather is fine because it's a by-product of the meat industry and fur is not because those animals die purely for their skin- see this Guardian piece for more clarity on that point. What is definitely true is that leather is commonplace whereas fur is laced with- depending on your viewpoint- glamour, disgust, fascination, beauty and otherworldliness.

Joseph Altuzarra AW13

Last year, I was on my own quite late at night at Waterloo station waiting for my platform to come up. I was wearing a very warm, authentically chocolate brown but nevertheless very much fake fur jacket. A man approached, lurched towards me and began to shout abuse at me for wearing fur. This made me wonder, is there so much of  difference between wearing fur that is authentic looking but ultimately fake and the real thing? Aside from cost, to the onlooker you are portraying the same message whether it's fake or not.

Marc Jacobs AW13

Back to the catwalks. A certain kind of lady, maybe best represented by Anna Wintour, has never stopped wearing fur and certain brands have never stopped using fur. The American Vogue editor has endured very public confrontations with PETA protesters but has stoically carried on wearing her pelts because that's her thing. Then Miu Miu SS13 came along; shamelessly, extravagantly offering up fur coats and stoles alongside denim pencil skirts and dust coats. Miuccia Prada was making a statement by being so blatant with fur a. By using it in her supposedly younger Miu Miu line and b. By pairing it with a casual fabric like denim. The casual/ luxe mix is a key part of this fur story. That man at Waterloo station (and his ilk) is of no concern. The most simple explanation is that designers like Prada and then everyone using fur this season- Joseph Altuzarra, Christopher Kane, Marc Jacobs- are simply answering demand. Jacobs even put a cartoonish fox face on his creations, mimicking the the unashamed way women in the 20s and 30s would wear animals with faces and tails still intact. Fur sells now- the industry has almost doubled in value since 2000 from £5.7 billion to £9.4 billion- and so that is a very good reason for designers to use it in their collections, if they can get round the ethics.

Simone Rocha AW13

Obviously some will not use fur, either because they simply prefer the look of faux, cannot afford to work with  the real thing or have their own ethical problem with animal hides. Simone Rocha's 'Respect your elders' collection was an LFW highlight, inspired by her two Grannies. She used verging on kitsch leopard fake fur to trim collars and make entire sweatshirts and coats. In a really great way, you would never mistake Simone Rocha's girl as wearing the real deal. Away from the fashion weeks, Stella McCartney has just unveiled the newest version of her Falabella bag. McCartney famously eschews leather and fur in her collections but has still managed to tap into the furry mood with the Itsy Bitsy bag, so named after two of the sheep in her very own organic flock whose fleeces have been used to makes the bags. If the horsemeat scandal has made us think twice about the origin of our food, then Stella's option is the fashion equivalent of getting conscientious; good welfare provenance assured.

The kindest way to do the tufty trend: Stella McCartney Itsy Bitsy Falabella £1,150

ALL THE SMALL THINGS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

This time of year can start to make one feel really quite weighed down. First of all, there's the eating- even before Christmas day itself, there seem to be interminable cupcakes and tins of Quality Street and Miniature Heroes knocking about, not to mention the carb fest that is "party food". Then there's all the shopping, present upon present to buy, rolls of wrapping paper and festive cards. The loading up which began several weeks ago is now beginning to feel like an enormous weight which it would be rather nice to fly away from, cast off all the possessions and unnecessary stodge and just lighten up.

Mini Miu Miu heels worn by Elle China's Leaf Greener, photographed by Tommy Ton (jakandjil.com)

If we cannot grow wings then the next best thing might be downsizing which, rather luckily, is right in line with where fashion is going. Gone are the mega Towie heels of yesteryear, replaced with a stocky, ladylike block heel which the Queen would be proud of. As opposed to the giant, Mary Poppins bags of mere seasons ago, it now seems so much fresher to be carting around little more than a teeny cross-body bag just big enough for a phone, a card and a lipstick. After all, how often do you actually use the entire contents of your make-up bag which we usually insist on hauling around "just in case". I think it's a state of mind more than anything else, cutting the ties and losing the fear. Our backs will thank us.

A very small bag, photographed by Tommy Ton (jakandjil.com)

The ultimate lightweight inspiration comes courtesy of Louis Vuitton who have recruited three street style stars- Mira Duma, Hanneli Mustaparta and Elin Kling- to prance the streets of Paris, hands free with just their sweet and small cross-body bags to carry their worldly goods. The message is that life is just  trillion times more fun without baggage which is quite a statement for a brand whose core offer is enormous trunks and sizeable handbags. 2013 is set to be the year when fashion is kind to us- we can wear heels which aren't absurd and bags which don't break our backs. To celebrate, here are some late additions for your Christmas list... small but perfectly formed.

Jimmy Choo rebel bag £550 at My Theresa

Marc by Marc Jacobs spot bag £350 at My Theresa

ASOS chunky gold heels £40

J Crew Janey silver gold chunk pumps £243.75

Topshop snake bag £28

Zara jewelled ballerinas £59.99

Miu Miu crystal small heels £460

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MARC JACOBS' NEW FAVE, RUBY JEAN WILSON

Posted by Kasia Hastings, Fashion Intern at Large

"Birthday cupcakes at my shoot :) aww!" an instagram from @rubyjean_wilson

Happy Birthday Ruby Jean Wilson!

This weekend amongst her super-cute instagrams, 19 year-old Ruby Jean Wilson retweeted this from @wisdomquote: “Happiness is the only good. The time to be happy is Now. The place to be happy is Here. The way to be happy is to Make others so.” – yes, we would be very happy to be you right now too Miss Wilson! Ruby Jean is the break through model of SS13, she opened and closed for Marc Jacobs in New York and stole the show at Louis Vuitton in Paris as well as being the name on everyone’s lips for the whole of fashion month. SS13's answer to Edie Sedgwick.

The Scottish-born, Australian model was signed by Priscilla’s Model Management in 2009 at the age of 15 and made her international debut in 2010 walking for Lacoste in New York. Since then she has walked for Burberry, YSL and Stella McCartney to name a few. Whilst the Ozzy babe has been around for a few seasons and walked for both Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton in 2012 it wasn’t until SS13 that Miss Ruby Jean stole our fashion hearts – but why now?

Earlier today I spoke to Carol White of Premier Models who represent Ruby Jean this side of the pond, she describes Jacob’s latest muse as a “beautiful bird”. Carol puts the model’s success down to three things, her newly blonde hair, looking so fit and “Luck!”. As Carol went on to explain, over the last year Ruby Jean has been working out hard to look good – good here translating as fit, toned and healthy. This suggests a conscious effort on the model’s part to move away from her super skinny look and a nod to the athletic. This got me thinking, is Ruby Jean the poster girl for a new kind of model? Not Amazonian nor waif like, but delicately toned? (Mr Jacobs seems to like it) Ruby Jean is part of a growing trend for “toned” or “athletic” (I use these words carefully) models on the catwalk - fit models.
Along with looking the best she ever has, Ruby Jean is also conveniently reminiscent of Edie Sedwick. After Marc Jacobs's 60s inspired New York show, Ruby Jean won the title of Jacobs's muse thanks to her Edie-ish bleach blonde hair do and doe eyes. It's safe to say that on her 19th birthday Ruby Jean Wilson is looking good and with her addictive instagrams and 60s perfection she has stolen our fashion hearts this season.

You should also check out Ruby Jean's Tumblr...

“MODEL WITH AN INTEREST IN BEAUTIFUL COLOURS, HEALTHY WHOLE FOOD, POSITIVE THINKING, WORLD TRAVEL AND INSPIRATIONAL PEOPLE. I BLOG ABOUT THINGS I DO, AND NICE PICTURES OF THINGS I LIKE.”

Ruby and her beloved puppy

Ruby in Paris last week

Twin B - Ruby was one half of Louis Vuitton's opening twins

 Ruby Jean instagrams her new tattoo
 
Nice thigh definition Ruby Jean

Marc Jacob's muse - Opening and closing for Marc Jacobs SS13

FIRST LOOK: LOUIS VUITTON X YAYOI KUSAMA... THE DOTS ARE HERE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's here! We brought you news back in January that Louis Vuitton would be collaborating with Japan's greatest living artist and queen of polka dots, Yayoi Kusama. Now, we've seen Tate Modern's brilliant exhibition (which finished yesterday but is now going to New York) and we were getting tad impatient to see what Marc Jacobs and Kusama had come up with for the collection which is a continuation of Vuitton's work with artists, we all remember Murakami and Sprouse, right?

Well, I was poking about online earlier and came across these images on Trendland which finally show us what the Infinitely Dots collection is going to look like. Dots are what we expected and dots are what we get, whether they're in muted colours on a structured tee or bold, bright and classically Kusama on bow ballet pumps and perspex bangles.

I love that there is a dot interpretation for every taste- there's in-your-face pieces which play to Kusama's almost childlike obsession with the bright colours and bold graphics of the spot. But then there are more pared back, luxe interpretations like the monochrome sunglasses (in the top picture) with their round, sixties shape and gold detailing. Whatever guise they come in, if you know Kusama's work then you'll recognise her input in each piece.

It's a bit puzzling that the collection's official website doesn't show the product yet, despite the fact that it's on a couple of websites. Nevertheless, the site does give those new to Kusama an insight into her life and there's also an interview with Vuitton main man Marc Jacobs whose idea it was for the label to collaborate with artists. He says '"It continues something I began when I came here which is the idea of art and collaboration, or collaboration with artists. For many people who don't look at art or go to galleries, or maybe they're not aware of Kusama's work, there will be a new venue, a new place to see this work and to come to appreciate it through the eyes of Louis Vuitton."

If you remember the previous collaborations, then you'll know that part of the deal is that the distinct LV monogram gets a makeover from the artist- in these images we can see that Vuitton's luggage bag styles have been covered in dots and made in shiny, tactile fabrics.

Self Obliteration (1967) by Yayoi Kusama (image from www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern)

Also, is it weird or fabulous that the images feature a model who looks like a younger version of Yayoi? She has frequently used herself in her work and that fringe is pretty iconic- I think the photos are really fun but it also feels a bit like they're trying to recreate a Yayoi original.

The first drop from the Infinitely Dots collaboration is out on July 11th- it'll be mostly pyjamas, trench coats and jewellery with the second drop in October. Prepare for dot mania!

All images from www.trendland.com

THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 9th-13th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.

Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)

For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.

Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)

So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!

Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)

While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...

Stefano Pilati gets  hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)

Daphne Guinness is donating pieces from her vast fashion collection to a Christies auction to launch and raise funds for The Isabella Blow foundation. Highlights include a silver dress which Lee McQueen made especially for Guinness in 2008. Apparently some of the items to be auctioned could sell for as  little as £300, what might that be? A Chanel button maybe? The Isabella Blow Foundation will raise funds to continue Issie's work, nurturing emerging from the art and fashion worlds.

Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)

There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.

Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)

The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely,  a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd,  a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.

Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)

Here's an extract from her lengthy piece, which is well worth reading in full:

"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"

Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time. 

Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)

The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour. 

Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)

Scrunchies for now- image from www.sweetandsound.co.uk

Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)

Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)

Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?

Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.