HOW TO JUSTIFY BUYING EVERYTHING FROM DIOR RESORT

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Unless you are extremely lucky, you probably won't get your hands on Raf Simons' Dior Resort collection, which was shown in Monaco at the weekend. I'm a big fan of what Simons is doing at Dior but I think this new Resort offering is particularly fresh; it has that underlying current of being formal which seems integral to Dior but there's also a strong sense of Raf being experimental and fun. In the time-honoured FEAL fashion, I have put my own big head onto some of my personal favourite looks and published them here, along with sound reasons why they should feature in your shopping dreams, or lists if you do so happen to be that lucky.

EVERY WOMAN NEEDS A TROUSER SUIT

It is an apt time for trouser suits which play into the matching thing around a lot right now. The traditional styling boundaries are also being altered all the time. These suits might be worn with the slick heels they were in show but they would be equally right with sharp brogues or even something really casual like Converse. There is something just slightly relaxed in the cut of these jackets (bracelet length sleeves, slightly looses etc) which I think hints that they aren't just for dressing up

 

IT'S ALL ABOUT SEPARATES

Brilliant looks in themselves, with the requisite crop top for those who think their abs are hard enough. But also very pick-apartable. Imagine those silk culottes with a bikini on holiday. Or the tee crop top with one of those huge ballgown skirts from Raf's first Dior ready-to-wear show. Or the slouch trousers with a huge cosy jumper on a Sunday afternoon

 A ZIP DRESS IS AN INCREDIBLY USEFUL THING

There has been much Twitter chatter about the viability of the series of zip dresses which came towards the end of the show. Here, the dress is like a top with a train but in 2 minutes it might become a lovely dress with a little spilt. Plus if you have great shorts, legs or even knickers to show off then this dress lets you do that in quite a new way. If you're a "nothing-above-the-knee" girl then zip up and you're good too.

FOR THE SHEER SHEERNESS OF IT

Are you a work of art? Are you parading your underwear? Did you leave your petticoat at home? Who knows, but you're wearing Dior. 

All catwalk images via Style.com

RAF SIMONS' DIOR DEBUT SETS FASHION WORLD (AND THE WEB) ALIGHT

 Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

I'm pregnant enough to make getting out of a car a three point manoeuvre so decided not to go to Paris for the Haute Couture shows this time (the most sensible I have been in my life). And so, following in the footsteps of colleagues who have walked this way before me, I'm watching the latest fashion proceedings in Paris from the comfort of my swivel chair and a window on the world through my Mac. The view is, in fact, rather brilliant proving almost as insightful as actually being there.

The Dior live stream for Raf Simon's debut show – OMG!! Cue Raf mania etc. - for the house was in full working order - we watched it on Dior.com complete with the actual show music, Windowlicker by Aphex Twin, pumping through (with Elle.fr and Dior's Facebook page as back-ups).

Witnessing the build up to the show on Twitter/Instagram was bordering on hysterical – one editor wrote, “So excited its like Christmas day when you are five years old.” When you think that basically, said editor (and indeed all of us to an extent) is excited about clothing designed for the newly minted society ladies from BRIC nations, created by a rave music loving Belgian modernist, for France’s most storied and bourgeois fashion house, in the midst of a first world recession, it seems smart to remain clear-eyed in the eye of fashion beauty. Especially when considering the fate of the previous Dior creative director John Galliano who infamously unravelled under the pressure of his role. Being caught up in fashion raptures seems somehow inappropriate to me now, but it's hard when confronted with the most perfect outfit I've ever seen (below).

(via @franburnslondon) My favourite

So, I’m going to try to be clear eyed. The heart and the head are saying two different 

things… While this did feel like the most anticipated fashion debut in my living 

memory, and the flower filled venue and clothes were incredibly beautiful, the show and 

collection itself was exactly what I expected - even down to the slim-leg trousers topped

 with modern ballgown tops that were a lyrical rendition of the so-called “mullet” dresses 

most young London women are wearing - nothing more. I'm not sure if that is a bad thing 

or a good thing. Probably good. 

It was certainly clear by look two that Raf Simons knew he had the Dior job back in February

 when he presented his final collection for Jil Sander, so similar was the look and feel of the

 clothes. In fact maybe his last Jil Sander show was actually his first unofficial Christian Dior 

show – even the hair and make-up was the same.

In a nutshell this felt like a spot-on continuation and evolution to the Raf Simons body of 

work, while it also respected the elegant codes of the Dior DNA. My gut feeling is, let's 

wait and see what he does for his Dior ready-to-wear – I sense he will be redefining and 

modernising the end-use customer in Dior's off-the-peg collection far more intensively 

that he can with a Haute Couture show. A society lady is what she is, after all, and she 

will be hammering down the door of the Dior atelier on Rue Francois Premier....right

 about now.

THE FIVE TWEETS WHICH SUMMED IT UP FOR ME:

Jess Cartner-Morley ‏@JessC_M

Nerdishly overexcited for today's Raf Simons debut, I have arrived 20 mins early at Dior. Doors not even open. #coolfail

Katie Shillingford ‏@K_SHILLS

That was so exciting my legs have turned to jelly...wow. Beautiful!

Derek Blasberg ‏@DerekBlasberg

The Dior show just ended. In the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape. Bravo!

Alexander Fury ‏@AlexanderFury 

I'm hardly understated myself, but if I read one more Vreeland-level overreaction to the shenanigans in Paris... Wipe your seats, peeps.

susiebubble ‏@susiebubble

Is it THE rapturous and monumental start to Raf's career at Dior we all expected though? I'm not sure....

(via @franburnslondon)

(via @franburnslondon)

(via @franburnslondon)

(via @franburnslondon)

Via @JessC_M

(via @kegrand)

(via @SHOWstudio)

Via @JessC_M

(via @SHOWstudio)

(via @timesfashion)

WHO WAS THERE?

Marc Jacobs (via @cathyhorynsnyt)

Riccardo Tisci (via ValerieToranian)

Donatella and Allegra (via @lauracraik)

Natalia Vodianova (via @lauracraik)

Anna dello Russo (via @lauracraik)

THE SOUNDTRACK

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 25th-29th JUNE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Cloak by Giles Deacon and Jeremy Deller (image from guardian.co.uk)

We're sandwiched right in the middle of Britain's two big events of the year- the Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics- so this week was an apt time to launch Britain Creates, a collusion of fashion and art. Designers such as Jonathan Saunders and Mary Katrantzou worked with artists including Jeremy Deller and Mat Collishaw to create pieces for the exhibtion which underlines the creativity at work in the UK in 2012. The open brief given to the collaborators has resulted in an array of artworks from hats to sculptures.There was a launch and charity auction on Wednesday evening at Selfridges but the pieces will be on public view from 6th to 29th July at the V&A which has worked on the project with the British Fashion Council.

Screen print by Jonathan Saunders and Jess Flood- Paddock (image from guardian.co.uk)

Wednesday was a busy evening as it was also the night that the much anticipated auction of pieces from Daphne Guinesses' wardrobe took place at Christie's. It was a night of records after £133,250 was paid  for a Mario Testino portrait of Guinness- the highest sum a piece of his work has ever reached. The record price for a McQueen was also smashed after £82,250 was bid for an empire line gown which Guinness originally wore for a Harper's Bazaar shoot. All proceeds from the auction will go to the Isabella Blow Foundation. There are plans afoot for an exhibition of Blow's vast fashion collection which is now owned by Guinness.The dress's winning bidder was none other than Lady Gaga and Guinness took to Twitter to thank the star for her contributions:

'And, THANK YOU my friend Lady Gaga. You are a real person. and a great one! Your proof of friendship, your time was very touching XXXX'

Gaga replied:

'I am a passionate fashion collector & feel honored to support The Isabella Blow Foundation. Daphne Guinness is a pioneer for artistic women'

Daphne Guinness in the record breaking McQueen dress (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Fashion show attendees can always depend on Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to put on a mega glitzy extravaganzana each season. The Italian design duo are now adding their name to the couture calendar with a show in their native Sicily on July 9th. However, the press will not be allowed in to report on the glmour as the event will be reserved for clients- only. It's an interesting move after Dolce and Gabbana's more affordable line, D&G, was shut down this year. This is another sign that the big money spenders who demand made-to-measure gowns have not gone away during the financial crisis. Now the mere mortals among us are left to mourn the fact we won't get to see anything from what is sure to be a molto fabulous occasion. 

A look from the gold and gilt-full Dolce and Gabbana AW12 show (image from catwalking.com)

It's been a nostalgic week for Spice Girls fans- myself very much included- after the launch of Viva Forever, a musical based on the songs of the 90s group. It's been written by Jennifer Saunders and produced by Judy Cramer. From a fashion perspective, the girls have come a long way since the pigeon -holed days of Sporty, Ginger, Baby etc. Melanie 'Sporty' Chisholm had swapped crop tops and adidas for a white tiered Acne dress and Victoria 'Posh' Beckham was naturally in a dress of her own much lauded design. The only Spice who hasn't moved on it seems is Geri 'Ginger' Halliwell who eschewed a designer number for the big appearence, instead making her own dress with a little help from Emma 'Baby' Bunton. It's safe to say that this DIY jobbie will not achieve the same fame as the Union Jack dress she ran up out of a tea towel for the Brits in 1997.

Spices reunited (image from telegraph.co.uk)

In other Spice news, the girls are apparently planning to auction many of their outfits- including the Buffalo boots which we think may be about to have a bit of a revival- for Save the Children and Children in Need. There are also whispers that Victoria is expanding her fashion portfolio even further with a collection designed with Sarah Jessica Parker, who previously dipped her toe in design waters with her role as Creative Director at Halston.

Beckham's new collaborator: Sarah Jessica Parker, who
 previously worked on Halston Heritage (image from marieclaire.co.uk)

Huge congratulations to Paula Reed who is leaving Grazia to become Fashion Director 
at Harvey Nichols. Her move continues the growing trend for moves from editorial to
 retail. Last year, long-time Vogue Fashion Editor Kate Phelan moved to Topshop while 
Lucy Yeomans has recently left her editorship of Harper's Bazaar to edit Net-a-Porter's
 magazine. We can't wait to see Harvey Nichols with Paula's touch.

Image from philltaylorblog.blogspot.com

The Paris Menswear shows are in full swing after Milan earlier in the week. Vogue Italia 
editor Franca Sozzani took to her blog to tell the world that a lot of what she sees at menswear
 shows 'is not a nice sight for anyone'. She was referring to 'cropped pants and polo shirts,
 so tight they showed through, depending on the body’s shape, toned-up biceps or curved
 bellies'. It's an interesting perpective when many Womenswear catwalk shows also contain
 looks which are far beyond the reach of the every day woman. However, let's not dismiss
 menswear altogether. Raf Simons' show won the praise of many for his collection this
 week which does, admittedly, have some of the elements Sozzani discusses- short shorts
 and big pink coats (a trending item after J.W Anderson also did one). Then there's Kim
 Jones' collection for Louis Vuitton which was a film-like nautical dream full of outfits
 I'm sure Sozzani would love. The quote of the day from Mr Jones? "I wanted to do a 
luxury version of things that are real" 

RAF SIMONS

A man version of the coats from Raf's last Dior collection (from catwalking.com)

Evidence of Mr Simons' art and archtecture obsession (image from catwalking.com)

 LOUIS VUITTON

I want to go on holiday with Kim's boys (image from catwalking.com)

Also at the menswear shows, history is being made with the longest fashion show ever, courtesy of Band of Outsiders. It's set to go on for 60 hours and you can watch what's going on in the Paris gallery where it's taking place by clicking this link. There is just one, as yet unidentified, model taking part and he changes every 90 minutes. The final three hours, tonight, will see guests invited into the space with the entire collection on show. A little bit of genius from Scott Stenberg, Band of Outsiders' Creative Director.

The model in the longest fashion show ever eating his dinner (image from fashionista.com)

Ever wondered what Karl Lagerfeld is doing when you hop on the bus to work or set off to the pub in the evening? Well now, you can find out after  the Chanel Creative Director told Harper's Bazaar the ins and outs of his daily routine. We learn that no hot drinks pass his lips, mornings are spent in a white shirt of 17th century design and all he seems to eat are steamed apples. Completely fascinating. 

A day in the life of Karl Lagerfeld (Karl's own photo, from harpersbazaar.com)

More music costume nostlagia now. This time from Lourdes, daughter of Madonna. She tweeted a photo this week of herself wearing a cone bra, the very same style made iconic by her Ma. This is the 2012, MDNA version, complete with hip caging, designed by the original creator himself Jean Paul Gaultier. I'm pretty sure every girl would like to have her moment in a cone bra- and who hasn't tried to recreate it using plastic cups? Lucky Lourdes gets the real thing. 

We wish you happy weekends with this video which has reignited our love for Lana del Rey. All you need to know is that she plays Jackie Kennedy while Rocky is J.F.K. It's beautful in a VERY Lana way...

THE WEEK IN FASHION: JUNE 18th- 22nd

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Another week has whizzed by and there are plenty of developments to catch up on before the weekend...

Yves Saint Laurent outside the original store Saint Laurent (image from YSL twitter)

The news that rocked the (fashion) world so much that it was trending on Twitter on all day yesterday and this morning is Hedi Slimane's decision to change the hugely iconic YSL logo and Yves Saint Laurent moniker to SLP (i.e. Saint Laurent Paris). This isn't the first big change Slimane has brought about having already moved the brand's creative studio from Paris to LA. The outcry from the industry has been unmitigated. Here is a good example of the tone of tweet appearing on our timelines yesterday:

Fashion156.com ‏@Fashion156

#YSL rebranding to 'Saint Laurent Paris' sounds like a chain of downmarket budgets hotels. Why mess with something so iconic? thoughts?

However, Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent's partner and the person who probably has the closest emotional ties to the house, is not so worried. In an interview with L'Express he declared that the name change is "an excellent idea". Furthermore, Bergé states his confidence that Slimane can take Saint Laurent back to being "a house of creation" and to the "prestige which is at it's heart". It's interesting to note that Saint Laurent Paris was the original name the house worked under and so it is really a revisiting as opposed to a complete novelty.

Raf Simons' new menswear ads (images from dailymail.co.uk)

Paris' other newly instated big name designer is, of course, Raf Simons at Dior. There have been no shocking Dior announcements from him thus far however images of his eponymous menswear line's ad campaign were released this week and show that Raf is perhaps indulging any temptations to shock via this outlet. The imagery shows deconstructed bodies in a collage-like style. Many have called the campaign, entitled Run Fall Run, weird but I think it's quite beautiful and just what we have come to expect from Raf. Now bring on the new Dior!

Givenchy AW12 ads with Stella Tennant (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

More Autumn/ Winter campaigns are being released every day. We reported earlier in the week on Prada's look of the season and today I'd like to bring Givenchy's to your attention. Tisci favourites Stella Tennant and Joan Smalls are among those who feature in the shots inspired by "the energy of a rave".  Mert and Marcus were behind the camera and Carine Roitfeld  was styling- fashion dream team.

Gary Richardson, legendary hair colourist from Daniel Hersheson, very sadly passed away last week. LOVE magazine, with whom he had a close relationship, posted some great images of his work which we'd love to re-share...

Images from www.thelovemagazine.co.uk

As guest designers at this year's Pitti W event, taking place this week in Florence, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos were bound to pull something special out of the bag. The images from their presentation in a Florentine palazzo confirm those suspicions. The pair, who are already famed for their complex and form enhancing prints, installed a "digital kaleidoscope" at the venue which projected the prints- inspired by medieval manuscripts- onto surfaces all around. The result is an "old-meets-new celebration"which is depicted not only in the setting but in the garments themselves.

Peter Pilotto at Pitti W (image from Vogue.com/ Peter Pilotto)

Pilotto's prints on the walls of the palazzo (image from vogue.com/ Peter Pilotto)

Here's an up-close look at one of the pair's new tailored pieces at their London resort press day this week.

You know by now that we're suckers for little snippets of King Karl news so I loved these pictures The Telegraph found this week of what appeared to be the Chanel designer in a fishing boat in rough waters. Cue daydreams of Chanel SS13 being comprised of macintoshes, galoshes and gold spun fisherman beards. No such luck though as it's actually Karl impersonator Jörg Knör who regularly dresses up as Mr Lagerfeld. Oh well. 

Karl at sea images from www.telegraph.co.uk

I was sad to miss G-Shock's Maarten van der Horst vs. Sibling party last night to celebrate the launch of  the watchmaker's new collaboration with the Fashion East designers. Sadder still that I can't possibly choose a favourite between Maarten's surfer florals and Sibling's colourful animal designs. Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East founder and LOVE Editor at Large, sums it up when she says the designs "are perfect for summer" and "represent the fun spirit of Fashion East". You can get one at G-Shock's store at the Truman Brewery.

The reason I couldn't make it to G-Shock last night was because I went along to hear Melanie speak on My Daily's panel discussing the future of fashion in the digital world. She was joined by the brilliant Mary Katrantzou, LOVE Editor Alex Fury and Sasha Wilkins of LLG. It was a fascinating chat to listen in on and I learnt many things, including the fact that designers plan their catwalk looks according to Style.com's layouts so that when the pictures are up the looks are grouped together in rows of six- observe the colour coordination in this screen shot of Prada AW12.

Left tonight: My Daily editor Libby, Sasha, Alex, Melanie and Mary (image from mydaily.co.uk)

Finally, I know we're almost a week late on this but if you're NOT one of the 4 million people who's already seen Abercrombie and Fitch models dancing to Carly Rae Jepsen's Call Me Maybe" then get to it. Perfect Friday night getting ready to go out entertainment. Just beware the cheese factor is off the scale... Happy Weekend!