Showing posts with label dior. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dior. Show all posts

Monday, October 15, 2012

SS13 AT FRIEZE, ARE GALLERIES AND DESIGNERS TALKING?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The Frieze Art Fair has become as much about what those who attend wear as it is about the art itself- well, that's true if you live in my world where pretty much any happening gets a fashion slant. I spent about 3 hours ensconced in the Frieze vastness on Saturday afternoon and I admit that I probably dedicated just as much energy to looking at what everyone was wearing as I did to the art itself. For men, it was all about a Tod's loafer and a tweed jacket and/or cashmere jumper, very Italian. And of course there were plenty of those enduringly popular brightly coloured trousers, may of them corduroy- I spotted mustard, pink, red, cobalt and bottle green. The ladies, as you may have seen from all the features covering Frieze style, were mostly either going for a bright, patterned vintage look or sharp, tailored conceptual pieces from Balenciaga, Celine, Comme et al. But I found that once you began to look, there was fashion in the art. Not just in the sense that there were photographs and paintings of "fashion" but numerous pieces reminded me of the looks I've been poring over from the SS13 catwalk. So, here they are- my fashion/ art Frieze twins.

1. BURBERRY/ PIETER VERMEERSCH

Colour bleed blues...



2. HERMES/ CAETANO DE ALMEIDA

Colourful digi checks...


3. PREEN/ DOUG AITKEN

Navy and white big stripes and little prints



4. DIOR/ FARHAD MOSHIRI

Red and pink colour clash



5. SOPHIA WEBSTER/ YAYOI KUSAMA

Colourful dots




6. LOUIS VUITTON/  AKRAM ZAATARI

Marc calls them twins, Zaatari says couples but they both mean two by two. 



All Frieze images by Fashion Junior at Large, catwalk image from catwalking.com

Monday, July 2, 2012

RAF SIMONS' DIOR DEBUT SETS FASHION WORLD (AND THE WEB) ALIGHT

 Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

I'm pregnant enough to make getting out of a car a three point manoeuvre so decided not to go to Paris for the Haute Couture shows this time (the most sensible I have been in my life). And so, following in the footsteps of colleagues who have walked this way before me, I'm watching the latest fashion proceedings in Paris from the comfort of my swivel chair and a window on the world through my Mac. The view is, in fact, rather brilliant proving almost as insightful as actually being there.

The Dior live stream for Raf Simon's debut show – OMG!! Cue Raf mania etc. - for the house was in full working order - we watched it on Dior.com complete with the actual show music, Windowlicker by Aphex Twin, pumping through (with Elle.fr and Dior's Facebook page as back-ups).

Witnessing the build up to the show on Twitter/Instagram was bordering on hysterical – one editor wrote, “So excited its like Christmas day when you are five years old.” When you think that basically, said editor (and indeed all of us to an extent) is excited about clothing designed for the newly minted society ladies from BRIC nations, created by a rave music loving Belgian modernist, for France’s most storied and bourgeois fashion house, in the midst of a first world recession, it seems smart to remain clear-eyed in the eye of fashion beauty. Especially when considering the fate of the previous Dior creative director John Galliano who infamously unravelled under the pressure of his role. Being caught up in fashion raptures seems somehow inappropriate to me now, but it's hard when confronted with the most perfect outfit I've ever seen (below).

(via @franburnslondon) My favourite

So, I’m going to try to be clear eyed. The heart and the head are saying two differen
things… While this did feel like the most anticipated fashion debut in my living 
memory, and the flower filled venue and clothes were incredibly beautiful, the show and 
collection itself was exactly what I expected - even down to the slim-leg trousers topped
 with modern ballgown tops that were a lyrical rendition of the so-called “mullet” dresses 
most young London women are wearing - nothing more. I'm not sure if that is a bad thing 
or a good thing. Probably good. 

It was certainly clear by look two that Raf Simons knew he had the Dior job back in February
 when he presented his final collection for Jil Sander, so similar was the look and feel of the
 clothes. In fact maybe his last Jil Sander show was actually his first unofficial Christian Dior 
show – even the hair and make-up was the same.

In a nutshell this felt like a spot-on continuation and evolution to the Raf Simons body of 
work, while it also respected the elegant codes of the Dior DNA. My gut feeling is, let's 
wait and see what he does for his Dior ready-to-wear – I sense he will be redefining and 
modernising the end-use customer in Dior's off-the-peg collection far more intensively 
that he can with a Haute Couture show. A society lady is what she is, after all, and she 
will be hammering down the door of the Dior atelier on Rue Francois Premier....right
 about now.

THE FIVE TWEETS WHICH SUMMED IT UP FOR ME:


Nerdishly overexcited for today's Raf Simons debut, I have arrived 20 mins early at Dior. Doors not even open. 

That was so exciting my legs have turned to jelly...wow. Beautiful!
The Dior show just ended. In the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape. Bravo!

I'm hardly understated myself, but if I read one more Vreeland-level overreaction to the shenanigans in Paris... Wipe your seats, peeps.
Is it THE rapturous and monumental start to Raf's career at Dior we all expected though? I'm not sure....

(via @franburnslondon)


(via @franburnslondon)

(via @franburnslondon)
(via @franburnslondon)

Via @JessC_M

(via @kegrand)
(via @SHOWstudio)
Via @JessC_M
(via @SHOWstudio)
(via @timesfashion)


WHO WAS THERE?

Marc Jacobs (via @cathyhorynsnyt)

Riccardo Tisci (via ValerieToranian)


Donatella and Allegra (via @lauracraik)
Natalia Vodianova (via @lauracraik)

Anna dello Russo (via @lauracraik)

THE SOUNDTRACK

Friday, April 13, 2012

THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 9th-13th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.

Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)
For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.

Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)
So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!

Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)
While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...

Stefano Pilati gets  hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)
Daphne Guinness is donating pieces from her vast fashion collection to a Christies auction to launch and raise funds for The Isabella Blow foundation. Highlights include a silver dress which Lee McQueen made especially for Guinness in 2008. Apparently some of the items to be auctioned could sell for as  little as £300, what might that be? A Chanel button maybe? The Isabella Blow Foundation will raise funds to continue Issie's work, nurturing emerging from the art and fashion worlds.

Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)
There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.

Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)

The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely,  a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd,  a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.

Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)
Here's an extract from her lengthy piece, which is well worth reading in full:

"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"

Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time. 

Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)
The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour. 

Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)
Scrunchies for now- image from www.sweetandsound.co.uk
Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)
Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)
Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?


Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.






Thursday, February 2, 2012

BAG MAD

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

For most girls, being without your handbag is like Karl Lagerfeld being without his gloves. Wrong and, quite frankly, disquieting.  Every day, I haul around books, magazines, diaries, make-up and don't use half of it but just feel much safer having it all about my person. It's all there just in case who-knows-what-happens, suddenly requiring me to produce 4 pens, a pad of post-its and 16 paracetamol. Seeing as  my life is kept in my handbag, it would be really bothersome to be packing and unpacking it every night, which is why mine is classic, neutral (to go with any outfit) and made from tough leather. I reckon this is why lots of girls bags are sort of boring. I was fine with this until now, but two big name bag collaborations are making me think that the contents of my bag might appreciate a new, much snazzier home.

Anselm Reyle's collection for Dior (images courtesy of Dior)
First up is Anselm Reyle's collection for Dior. The Berlin-based artist has taken some of Dior's classic shapes, like the Lady and splashed them with super bright prints as well as graphic stitching and quilting.

Anselm Reyle working on his Dior collection
Reyle explains his approach like this...

'I like working on the Lady Dior handbag. Most of my work builds on objects that already exist, which I then transform. For this project I did it the same way. I decided to focus on the classical bags of the Dior label'
An example of Anselm Reyle's work, from www.contemporaryartdaily.com
About his art, Reyle has said that it is about 'taking a stereotype to breathe new life into it'. Of course, this is not the first time that an artist has put their stamp on a classic shape at a design house- think Vuitton's Murakami and Sprouse projects for starters. However, with no big name at Dior right now an artist collaboration like this provides a clear creative signature in the interlude; Bill Gaytten might be in place but the collections he's produced thus far mostly take us back to the origins of the house rather than thinking about NOW. In a small way, it is Reyle who is breathing the life into Dior at the moment. He's also worked with Dior on a beauty line which works with the same themes and colours as the bags.




Second on the new bright bag scene is Mary Katrantzou's collaboration with French bag maker, Longchamp. This is a pretty genius move on their part to bring a much needed new visual to a brand which over here, is usually seen on the arm a certain kind of classic looking lady, and sometimes her slightly too blonde haired/ fake tanned daughter. I see virtually every other woman carrying one in the street when I go to France too. So, the partnership with print genius Katrantzou takes Longchamp to a whole new fashion, rather than simply practical, level. The lucky FashEd has been carrying hers for a while now and it looks amazing; the shapes have been updated but are still chic and close to the brand's identity but they are majorly pepped up by the printed exterior. The bags are based around an 'East meets West' theme- the balloons and temple motifs in super bright colours bringing that Eastern element.
Longchamp x Mary Katrantzou (all images from www.colette.fr)


Mary working on her designs


Balloons and blossoms make the classic Longchamp bag a whole lot more exciting

Love the rope handle- a perfect holiday bag. 

Mary's prints on the catwalk, from SS12 (www.catwalking.com)

If Reyle and Katrantzou can't convince us to ditch the safe, everyday classic and pack a little colourful punch into our bags for Spring, what else possibly could?

Anselm Reyle for Dior bags are available now, until March in Dior boutiques and concessions worldwide. 

Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp bags are available here at Longchamp.com and in Longchamp stores. Prices start at £94