Showing posts with label raf simons dior debut. Show all posts
Showing posts with label raf simons dior debut. Show all posts

Friday, July 6, 2012

THE WEEK IN FASHION: JULY 2nd-6th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's almost the weekend people, and I've managed to emerge from analysing Resort and Couture to bring you our news round-up before the week is up...

Chloe Sevigny for Miu Miu AW12, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (image from Miu MIu)
We might be onto Spring thinking with Resort but we're still reminded of the looks which will be hitting stores in a month or two with the steady stream of new ad campaigns being revealed. Miu Miu revealed Chloe Sevigny as their face for AW12. The New York IT girl first modelled for the brand in 1996. Their long-lasting relationship meant that Miu Miu let Sevigny put her feet up for the shoot so she is photographed (by Mert and Marcus) curled up in an armchair with a cup of tea, bless!

Chloe in her first Miu Miu ads, shot by Juergen Teller, in 1996 (image from popculturedujour.com)
Hedi Slimane revealed his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent this week. In a marked contrast to the hype surrounding Raf Simons' debut, Slimane only showed the collection to a small group of buyers. Anyone else eager to see what Slimane will do, having already renamed the brand SLP, must wait until October/ November when the pieces hit stores. The Saint Laurent twitter page denied that sketches published in WWD bore any resemblance to the designs:

The sketches released in WWD dated July 4, 2012, do not represent YSL Cruise 13 Collection and obviously were not designed by Hedi Slimane.



Some of the sketches, by Steven Stipelman, which appeared on WWD (see more here)
However, some of the buyers did describe what they saw. One told the FT that there were "silk dresses with bias-cut mini-skirts covered in dots" and the slim tailoring for which Slimane became so known during his Dior Homme days. Another told WWD that “It’s very black and white, with a strong Eighties influence. There were new constructions and cuts for suits, with a focus on the three-button jacket, and new shirt shapes with lots of special details, such as new collars and cuffs.”
Hedi is said to have taken inspiration from Helmut Newton's
iconic1975 image of the YSL tuxedo suit (image from Karl.com)
Choupette, Karl Lagerfeld's cat, has touched the hearts of many with her irreverent tweets (e.g. Well guess what Suzy Menkes, I find YOU dull. Hurts doesn't it?!) and now Lagerfeld has named a Chanel bag after his beloved pet. The soft, squishy clutch design was unveiled in the couture show on Tuesday. The name was revealed by Cathy Horyn of the New York Times after she tweeted that she'd just seen the bag in the Chanel showroom. We'll have to wait and see whether Karl decides to design a "kitty-friendly" version which could perhaps be worn around the collar.
King Karl with Choupette (image from ldnfashion.com)

This COULD be the Choupette bag (image from lipsticksandcopsticks.tumblr.com)
Ever since his dramatic and traumatic exit from Dior last year, little has been seen of John Galliano aside from the occasional rumour or 'spot' here and there. This week, one of the surest signs yet that he may be preparing for a new role of some kind came when he was seen having dinner at The Ritz with Anna Wintour. Rather bizarrely the meeting took place on the same day as Raf Simons' first couture show at Dior. Unusually for Wintour, onlookers reported that she was excited and animated. Sadly, nobody got close enough to hear what the two were discussing. 
Blurred instagram pictures show Galliano and Anna Wintour meeting
 at The Ritz (image from Albert Pang/ Instagram via telegraph.co.uk)
The FashEd and I met the fab jewellery designer Pamela Love in Paris back in February so we were very happy to see that she has done a brilliant job of continuing this summer's trend for boho weddings. US Vogue covered the ceremony and very appropriately called the feature "Flower Child". Love's marriage to illustrator Matthew Nelson in Montauk was all about 'being in a natural, wild environment—which is kind of what love is' she said.  Pamela is not the first bride to opt for the hippy mood this Summer. First, was Margarita Missoni with her flowing hair and amazingly embroidered dress. Then, last weekend one of the original purveyors of boho, Jade Jagger, gathered all her mates and family including Kate Moss, Jerry Hall and Dad Mick and for her marriage to Adrian Fillary. One guest who didn't comply with the boho dress code was Jade's Mum, Bianca whose black suit looked a little funereal among the flippy dresses and mad colours worn by most of the guests. 


Images from Pamela and Matthew's wedding- to see the whole slideshow go to Vogue.com
Carine Roitfeld may have resigned from French Vogue several months ago, but I still seem to find something to say about her every week in this piece. Not only has she been rocking some awesome looks during couture but she has styled three covers for the latest issue of V magazine. Roitfeld has used some of the boldest pieces from the AW12 collections including those hugely oversized and colourful Comme des Garcons coats and the sci-fi sweaters everyone wants from Balenciaga.

Carine rocks a Givenchy sequin pencil at Dior on
Monday (image from iwanttobearoitfeld.com)


V magazine's Youth Quake issue covers, styled by Carine Roitfeld (images from fashionologie.com)
Finally, if you feel like you've heard everyone's opinion on Raf's Dior debut then here's a chance to hear Mr Simons' own point of view on how he is approaching his new role...





Monday, July 2, 2012

RAF SIMONS' DIOR DEBUT SETS FASHION WORLD (AND THE WEB) ALIGHT

 Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

I'm pregnant enough to make getting out of a car a three point manoeuvre so decided not to go to Paris for the Haute Couture shows this time (the most sensible I have been in my life). And so, following in the footsteps of colleagues who have walked this way before me, I'm watching the latest fashion proceedings in Paris from the comfort of my swivel chair and a window on the world through my Mac. The view is, in fact, rather brilliant proving almost as insightful as actually being there.

The Dior live stream for Raf Simon's debut show – OMG!! Cue Raf mania etc. - for the house was in full working order - we watched it on Dior.com complete with the actual show music, Windowlicker by Aphex Twin, pumping through (with Elle.fr and Dior's Facebook page as back-ups).

Witnessing the build up to the show on Twitter/Instagram was bordering on hysterical – one editor wrote, “So excited its like Christmas day when you are five years old.” When you think that basically, said editor (and indeed all of us to an extent) is excited about clothing designed for the newly minted society ladies from BRIC nations, created by a rave music loving Belgian modernist, for France’s most storied and bourgeois fashion house, in the midst of a first world recession, it seems smart to remain clear-eyed in the eye of fashion beauty. Especially when considering the fate of the previous Dior creative director John Galliano who infamously unravelled under the pressure of his role. Being caught up in fashion raptures seems somehow inappropriate to me now, but it's hard when confronted with the most perfect outfit I've ever seen (below).

(via @franburnslondon) My favourite

So, I’m going to try to be clear eyed. The heart and the head are saying two differen
things… While this did feel like the most anticipated fashion debut in my living 
memory, and the flower filled venue and clothes were incredibly beautiful, the show and 
collection itself was exactly what I expected - even down to the slim-leg trousers topped
 with modern ballgown tops that were a lyrical rendition of the so-called “mullet” dresses 
most young London women are wearing - nothing more. I'm not sure if that is a bad thing 
or a good thing. Probably good. 

It was certainly clear by look two that Raf Simons knew he had the Dior job back in February
 when he presented his final collection for Jil Sander, so similar was the look and feel of the
 clothes. In fact maybe his last Jil Sander show was actually his first unofficial Christian Dior 
show – even the hair and make-up was the same.

In a nutshell this felt like a spot-on continuation and evolution to the Raf Simons body of 
work, while it also respected the elegant codes of the Dior DNA. My gut feeling is, let's 
wait and see what he does for his Dior ready-to-wear – I sense he will be redefining and 
modernising the end-use customer in Dior's off-the-peg collection far more intensively 
that he can with a Haute Couture show. A society lady is what she is, after all, and she 
will be hammering down the door of the Dior atelier on Rue Francois Premier....right
 about now.

THE FIVE TWEETS WHICH SUMMED IT UP FOR ME:


Nerdishly overexcited for today's Raf Simons debut, I have arrived 20 mins early at Dior. Doors not even open. 

That was so exciting my legs have turned to jelly...wow. Beautiful!
The Dior show just ended. In the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape. Bravo!

I'm hardly understated myself, but if I read one more Vreeland-level overreaction to the shenanigans in Paris... Wipe your seats, peeps.
Is it THE rapturous and monumental start to Raf's career at Dior we all expected though? I'm not sure....

(via @franburnslondon)


(via @franburnslondon)

(via @franburnslondon)
(via @franburnslondon)

Via @JessC_M

(via @kegrand)
(via @SHOWstudio)
Via @JessC_M
(via @SHOWstudio)
(via @timesfashion)


WHO WAS THERE?

Marc Jacobs (via @cathyhorynsnyt)

Riccardo Tisci (via ValerieToranian)


Donatella and Allegra (via @lauracraik)
Natalia Vodianova (via @lauracraik)

Anna dello Russo (via @lauracraik)

THE SOUNDTRACK

FLOWERS GALORE AT RAF SIMONS' DIOR DEBUT

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

This is the scene which Raf Simons set for his Dior debut today. Each room filled with a different flower- orchids, mimosas, roses, peonies.

From @Carlscrush

From @cathyhorynsnyt

From @franburnslondon 
From @grazia_live

from @JenniferBazaar

From @JimShi809
From @thelovemagazine

From @SHOWstudio