IS IT OK TO WEAR FUR NOW?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

I only ask because there is so much of the stuff appearing on the catwalks this Autumn. The fuzzy effect is in practically every major collection but what is so striking is the number of designers who are using real fur to express that idea.

Let me say early on that I am not necessarily pro or anti-fur. In fact, I find the whole issue profoundly confusing. I don't quite understand how anyone who eats meat can then make judgement against someone who chooses to wear fur. As recent news events show, we never truly know what meat it is that we're eating, unless you always buy from a local, trusted butchers who prepare cuts themselves. It is far too black and white to say that leather is fine because it's a by-product of the meat industry and fur is not because those animals die purely for their skin- see this Guardian piece for more clarity on that point. What is definitely true is that leather is commonplace whereas fur is laced with- depending on your viewpoint- glamour, disgust, fascination, beauty and otherworldliness.

Joseph Altuzarra AW13

Last year, I was on my own quite late at night at Waterloo station waiting for my platform to come up. I was wearing a very warm, authentically chocolate brown but nevertheless very much fake fur jacket. A man approached, lurched towards me and began to shout abuse at me for wearing fur. This made me wonder, is there so much of  difference between wearing fur that is authentic looking but ultimately fake and the real thing? Aside from cost, to the onlooker you are portraying the same message whether it's fake or not.

Marc Jacobs AW13

Back to the catwalks. A certain kind of lady, maybe best represented by Anna Wintour, has never stopped wearing fur and certain brands have never stopped using fur. The American Vogue editor has endured very public confrontations with PETA protesters but has stoically carried on wearing her pelts because that's her thing. Then Miu Miu SS13 came along; shamelessly, extravagantly offering up fur coats and stoles alongside denim pencil skirts and dust coats. Miuccia Prada was making a statement by being so blatant with fur a. By using it in her supposedly younger Miu Miu line and b. By pairing it with a casual fabric like denim. The casual/ luxe mix is a key part of this fur story. That man at Waterloo station (and his ilk) is of no concern. The most simple explanation is that designers like Prada and then everyone using fur this season- Joseph Altuzarra, Christopher Kane, Marc Jacobs- are simply answering demand. Jacobs even put a cartoonish fox face on his creations, mimicking the the unashamed way women in the 20s and 30s would wear animals with faces and tails still intact. Fur sells now- the industry has almost doubled in value since 2000 from £5.7 billion to £9.4 billion- and so that is a very good reason for designers to use it in their collections, if they can get round the ethics.

Simone Rocha AW13

Obviously some will not use fur, either because they simply prefer the look of faux, cannot afford to work with  the real thing or have their own ethical problem with animal hides. Simone Rocha's 'Respect your elders' collection was an LFW highlight, inspired by her two Grannies. She used verging on kitsch leopard fake fur to trim collars and make entire sweatshirts and coats. In a really great way, you would never mistake Simone Rocha's girl as wearing the real deal. Away from the fashion weeks, Stella McCartney has just unveiled the newest version of her Falabella bag. McCartney famously eschews leather and fur in her collections but has still managed to tap into the furry mood with the Itsy Bitsy bag, so named after two of the sheep in her very own organic flock whose fleeces have been used to makes the bags. If the horsemeat scandal has made us think twice about the origin of our food, then Stella's option is the fashion equivalent of getting conscientious; good welfare provenance assured.

The kindest way to do the tufty trend: Stella McCartney Itsy Bitsy Falabella £1,150

GETTING SPORTY WITH STELLA MCCARTNEY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

There are plenty of brands around who you may think are trying to sell you a pair of shoes, or a jumper but really it's all about the life. Ralph Lauren and his wholesome all-American good life comes to mind as a classic example.  But if there's one woman who represents a perfected version of modern life, and can sell you must of the stuff you need to look the part, then Stella McCartney is your woman. Obviously, if you're going to look good in your strapless jumpsuit then exercise should be a key component of the Stella way of living, hence her almost decade long collaboration with Adidas. With that in mind, I popped over to Stella's Adidas store on Brompton Road to have a peek at the new Spring/ Summer collection and meet the woman herself.

Stella and I

"It's so much easier to lie on the sofa watching TV and eating a brownie" is one of the first things Stella tells us, "this collection is really about encouraging and inspiring something which isn't always so easy". The store is dotted with pieces which look almost too good to get sweaty in; icy blue metallic shorts, leopard print jackets, ditsy English garden florals and a very appealing tennis dress called The Barricade. On the walls, are zinging, psychedelic campaign images with models doing back flips, leaps and sprints. It really does make you want to get up and go.

"These are the pieces women deserve" Stella McCartney

It's easy now to take for granted that us girls have plenty of choice when it comes to really stylish yet technical and functional sportswear. But it was Stella McCartney's Adidas hook-up which really spurred on the world of sport to play fashion catch-up. It all began with a respect for the technical prowess of sportswear. "I wanted to do a sneaker on the runway, but I've never been a huge fan of fashion sneakers. I like sneakers to be technical, then bring fashion to it" Stella says. And so, women finally had something really desirable to wear when they exercised, rather than apologetically throwing on their boyfriend's musty old t-shirt. There's still progress to be made though Stella insists, "women in sport are totally undervalued. Men drive the industry, they have more investment. Football is king. These are reasons to encourage women to do sport".

Multiple collections, forays into many sports and one Olympics design job later, Stella's outlook is still pretty empowering. She uses words like "bold"and "celebrate" in reference to the latest offering. "Let's not apologise for anything" is the mantra. Her own latest exercise obsession is paddle boarding, so naturally she's catered for that. "I love that you're just outside, experiencing nature. If you get a chance to paddle board outside in the freezing cold Thames it's pretty delightful" she enthuses, though perhaps we should wait until it heats up a little for that foray?

Stella McCartney for Adidas SS13. All about "the real joy of working out"

"I'm over feeling ashamed that you might bump into someone you know when you're running.
When I run I want to feel like if I run into someone, I'm proud of the way I look" Stella McCartney

There are elements of Stella's ready-to-wear which have crept into the Adidas collection, despite efforts to keep them quite separate over the years. The Resort collection leopard print, the SS13 ditsy florals and popping bright colours, but all given a techy acid makeover. McCartney denies that sportswear being fashionable is any new thing, "there's always been energy in sportswear. I don't think it's just now. Think of the 80s. At some stage everything ends up on a runway. It's always been part of what I do". The added benefit of an Adidas x Stella McCartney product is that it will be infused with technology like Climacool or Techfit or some cutting edge new invention like water-free dye. It's a level of functionality which you don't see on most brands. And ethics, which we all know is a huge part of the no fur, no leather Stella life. But not even she is completely flawless; it was up to Adidas to teach her about the harmful effects of PVC.

In case you live on Planet Zog, you will be aware that it was Stella who was responsible for Team GB's kit at last year's olympics, all those slinky racing suits and peplum podium jackets. However she's actually just like you (maybe) and me (definitely) when it comes to what the Olympics meant. "My memory of it is more just experiencing it, like all of you guys. It was so surreal that I'd worked on it and when I watched it, those were things I designed. It was just too huge and surreal to think of it that way". Luckily, she's up for doing it all over again too, "I'd love to do it again, I'd do it forever and ever".

Images courtesy of Stella McCartney/ Adidas. Visit the Stella McCartney for Adidas store at 97, Brompton Road.

Christopher Kane sells 51% Majority Stake to Luxury Group PPR, joins roster including Balenciaga, McQueen, Stella McCartney and Yves Saint Laurent

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Christopher Kane

It's been tough keeping this one quiet, but at the stroke of midnight today, January 15th 2013, at last the news became public (my lip has been buttoned for ages). Christopher Kane the 30-year-old Glasgow born designer has sold a 51% stake of his business to the PPR Group in order to develop his business into a global luxury fashion brand.

This is brilliant news for a designer who graduated eight years ago with his Fashion MA from Central Saint Martins, and became an instant critical and commercial success. It makes today a very good day for British fashion and the education and grant system that supports and nurtures young talent, including not least the NEWGEN scheme which launched Chris into London Fashion Week for his first colour-popping show in September 2006, for S/S S2007. (Although sadly, if Christopher Kane was looking for a university place in England today, his 18 year old self would not be able to afford the fees.)

Even better, Kane will not be moving his catwalk shows to Paris; he stays in London.

In aligning with PPR Group (Printemps-Pinault-Redoute) Kane joins an impressive portfolio of luxury brands jockeying for 21st Century domination including Balenciaga (with newbie Alexander Wang as creative director), Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent with Hedi Slimane at the helm. His achievement is particularly sweet given the biggest fashion rumour connected to his name over 2012 was that he may be heading up design at Balenciaga following his departure from Versus, and the departure of Nicolas Ghesquiere from Balenciaga. "The Balenciaga thing wasn't a bad thing" Kane told Style.com, "but I had to make sure I denied that straightaway so that the PPR investment in my business didn't look like a consolation prize."

If this still leaves you slightly baffled as to its significance for Kane and the wider fashion picture, here are a few reasons why this is important news. Fans of Christopher Kane can rejoice in the knowledge that the Dalston, East London based designer will now be able to A) open stores globally over time, B) launch leather goods (woop!) C) spend more time creating his signature collection and less time on paperwork and the running of what was very much a family business with a small team of close confidantes.

"He is still the one and only graduate who was ever awarded New Gen funding right out of college," says Sarah Mower MBE the BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent who discovered Kane while he was still at university. "We took a risk, which was stunningly well rewarded with his first neon-bandage show in Holland Park in September 2006 - one of the best London fashion shows ever and one which not only launched him, but marked the beginning of the wave of creativity and self-confidence which has transformed London in the eyes of the world." As head of the New Gen who has nurtured Kane from day one, Mower is also understandably pleased that he is staying loyal to his homeland. "I'm thrilled that Christopher has no thought of showing anywhere but London. That fact is the absolute proof and endorsement of how this city has been transformed as the international platform for new ideas."

For Kane and his business partner and sister Tammy Kane this means they needn't worry financially for a long time to come. Selling 51% of your company to one of the world's most powerful luxury groups is a mahoosive payday. Alexander McQueen is rumoured to have got £30 million in 2000 when he sold a 51% stake to the Gucci Group (as the fashion arm of PPR was still called then when it was co-run by Tom Ford).

It is worth noting that what Christopher has pulled off is even more impressive than it looks, as PPR group has not backed a young designer for a decade. Indeed, this is the very first fashion acquisition actively made by PPR chairman Francois-Henri Pinault; all the previous acquisitions were made under the leadership of Tom Ford and Domenico de Sole.

Francois-Henri Pinault described Kane as “ A truly great talent who in just a few years he has built a very distinctive and exciting brand with a unique DNA." For his part Kane told  US Vogue "Tammy and I have been dreaming of what we would do since I was about nine years old...we instinctively feel that PPR understand what we’re about and how we can grow- not headlong, but step by step. It’s fantastic to have that sense of security.”

I'm so proud of Christopher and Tammy and utterly delighted for them. They have been building their brand cleverly and diligently from day one, and it really couldn't happen to nicer people. Onwards!

THE WEEK IN FASHION: DECEMBER 10th to 14th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Just 11 days until Christmas and the fashion world is beginning to descend into festive silliness. However, there are several stories of note for us to catch up but before that we turn to in-depth analysis of Victoria Beckham shunning the Spices and the shocking new "megging" phenomenon...


It was supposed to be a mere premiere, the opening night of the latest instalment in the oeuvre of Judy Craymer. Yet it turned into a culturally significant moment as four members of the band formerly known as Spice Girls rocked up attempting to emulate the Girl Power they'd ignited nearly 15 years ago with glitter, botox, flesh on show and girly showing off. What was once so right (well, it was in my mind as a 9 year old) just became so wrong. That wrongness was only magnified when the fifth Spice, Posh a.k.a Victoria Beckham rocked up terribly late looking super chic in her white shirt and shrugged-on coat with her Burberry bedecked boys as companions. She eschewed the post-pop tragedy of joining in with the group posing and pouting of her fellow Spices and instead showed just how much she'd moved on and had created her own new brand of lady power. Lisa Armstong's take on the evening's significance is really spot on.

The latest big, searching debate in fashion is.... The Megging. Indeed, that is the Man Legging. It may seem an absurd notion to entertain right now, but stranger things have happened on Planet Fashion.  They could become the ultimate lazy boy move on from the tracksuit bottoms, much in the same way that leggings were for girls several years back. For further insight, read The Guardian's in-depth investigation. 

Working the Megging (image via telegraph.co.uk)

The AW13 NEWGEN recipients were announced this week. J.W Anderson and Simone Rocha get catwalk sponsorship while newcomers include a man whose does very classy footwear, Liam Fahy, and Paula Gerbase, whose androgynous tailored designs you can find out more about here.

Paula Gerbase designs

Lovely, luxurious Liam Fahy slippers

It's been yet another big week for Stella McCartney. Her brand was the most searched for on the internet this year, no wonder really considering every A-lister worth their salt has had a Stella turn on the red carpet not to mention the fact that every Team BG athlete was kitted out in McCartney kit for the games. To round off her phenomenal year, Stella held her traditional Christmas light switch-on at her Bruton Street store on Monday evening. The honour of switching on the festive display went to Vic Reeves and Paul Whitehouse who also sang to the assembled guests about being vegetarian.

Paul, Stella and Vic sport matching tweeds  (image via http://entertainment.topnewstoday.org)

Ok, so it's not strictly fashion- specific news but the ongoing difficulty of merging our Instagram and Twitter feeds is really to getting to those of us who want to show off lovely pictures of shoes/ handbags/ jewels etc. etc. The two social networking sites are having a number of disagreements which means that they have reduced their compatibility with one another. Find out the details here. And here's to a 2013 when we don't have to keep opening new tabs to see the latest pictures of people's latest fashion finds. Talk about #firstworldproblems.

We're missing out on gems like this thanks to the Instagram/ Twitter feud. Image via Tommy Ton 

Congratulations to Sarah Burton who picked up her OBE at Buckingham Palace yesterday. Burton is due to give birth to twins in February so obviously this makes a lovely story about her being a prine candidate to outfit Duchess Kate for her own pregnancy. Sarah did a lovely job on herself yesterday, going for a gold embroidered coat and simple black dress. Also at the palace was April Ashley who I have coincidentally been learning about in the book I'm reading, The Last Curtsey. Ashley was one of the first transexuals and has had a quite incredible life. She's now been awarded the MBE for her services to transgender relations.

April Ashley and Sarah Burton collect their honours at the palace (images via daily mail and style.com)

Spring/ Summer '13 is really feeling like it's getting underway, especially as the Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs campaigns have now been released. Of course, Ruby Jean Wilson stars in all the optical illusion imagery.

Images via WWD.com and Fashionologie.com

i-D's interview with Sarah Mower is inspiring; if you've ever had so much as a passing thought about a career in fashion then you will find a wealth of advice and very refreshing reality check right here. This one of the best wise quotes-

"You only get anywhere if you have to write – if you actually have to put something down on paper. If you’re driven. You have to be self-critical and write things over and over again, and redo it and redo it. It can take me three hours to write the first sentence."

Sarah Mower with her assistant Hannah Lambert (image via i-donline.com)

If you can't possibly stand another gallery of trinkety fashion gift ideas, then may I refer you to Colin McDowell's edit of the best fashion books to put on your Christmas list this year.

W: The First 40 Years is one of Mr McDowell's recommendations (image via highsnobette.com)

To round off our pre-Christmas Week in Fashion, we bring you two of our favourite celeb outifts of the week.

My long term girl crush on Kirsten Dunst has been renewed after she wore one of Dior's SS13 fabulously simple and chic navy jackets with the metallic, space heels. Meanwhile, Kanye West went for a leather Givenchy kilt when he performed at a Hurricane Sandy fundraiser on Wednesday. The high fashion piece has divided opinion and now has its very own Twitter account, we like it. Happy Weekends everyone!

Kirsten Dunst in Dior (image via stylite.com)

Kanye's Givenchy kilt

GET INSPIRED, GET ART.SY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

There's a tendency for social networking sites to suck away our time, and not in a good way. The worst culprit is Facebook where it's terrifyingly easy to fall down a black hole of wedding and new baby photos of people you barely know but somehow once became "Friends" with. Twitter is better, given that it is often teaching us something, or challenging our opinions. In the search for another timeline with something richer to offer than vacuous insights into other people's lives, I have recently discovered Art.sy, a new online destination where you can gather together imagery from your favourite artists.

Art.sy has the backing of some of art's finest financiers including Dasha Zhukova and Larry Gagosian, Like most of the art sites of its kind, Art.sy lets you accumulate a "collection" of your favourite pieces. The added bonus is the new suggestions it generates for you based on what you already like. You can also subscribe to certain genres of art like "Glamour", "Graffiti" or "Contemporary Photography".

For those among us whose budget doesn't stretch to acquiring our own real-life collection, this is a great way to curate your own space or just gather together any works which you find useful/ inspiring/ beautiful into one online space. And if you do happen to be one of those lucky few who must decide which art to invest in then art.sy is a great tool for that too. There is an "Inquire" option which lets you get in touch with galleries who have a piece you fancy snapping up for real. Art.sy also shows details about shows going on at galleries all around the world, as well as partnering with big art fairs like Design Miami .

For fashion fans, now is a very good time to get into your art with plenty of SS13 collections referencing artists. If you find that you need an invite to Art.sy then drop me a line, I have a few left.

STELLA MCCARTNEY AND ELLSWORTH KELLY

JONATHAN SAUNDERS AND BRIDGET RILEY

ROKSANDA ILINCIC AND NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE

.

STYLING IT UP: WHITE SHIRTS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Peter Lindberh's supermodels in white shirts (image from thefashionbloggers.blogspot.com)

Pretty much every "grown-up" lady I know has a perfect white shirt. It's a staple element of the wardrobe of most modern women. Until now, the white shirt has either been buttoned up with a suit for business meetings or worn loose and mannish as in Peter Lindbergh's supermodels portrait above. However of late, it's started to inch into actual fashion territory too.  By that I mean that it's been used as key styling tool on the catwalks and, most importantly, is Alexa Chung's new favourite thing to wear to big events.

Alexa in Christopher Kane at the Scottish Fashion Awards

In our day-to-day work, the FashEd and I are constantly hearing about how consumers are trying to save their pennies and are reluctant to invest in whole new looks. This makes the white shirt's new lease of life even more exciting for those of you out there who want to look of the moment with out breaking the bank. Step forward our new formula-

1. Take a blingy party dress from your wardrobe.
2. Wear with white shirt.

Ta da! Ok, so it's pretty simple but the basic principle is that you can revive old skirts and dresses just by wearing them a new and now way, namely by priming them up with a crisp shirt rather than baring flesh or using a cardigan  to cover up. Take it a step further by adding gems to the cuff or a ribbon round the collar. It is imperative that the shirt is taken far, far away from corporate connotations to achieve the right level of nowness- Kristen Stewart wore a Stella white shirt get-up recently which would have been rather fab had it not been for the overly staid jacket that got plonked on top.

Kristen Stewart in Stella (image from mydaily.co.uk)

Alexa in Marc Jacobs plus shirt at the Met Gala (image from mydaily.co.uk)

It wasn't actually Alexa who started this trend- though she's it earliest real life adopter. On the AW12 catwalks, there were white shirts sprinkled into many of the major shows. Giles' show notes even thanked Gap for the provision of white shirts throughout. Roksanda Ilincic kept the shirt within its menswear roots but added fur and sporty cuffs. Simone Rocha put huge knitted panels on hers while Stella's were embroidered in cobalt blue rococo patterns. 

Giles AW12 (image from catwalking.com)

Roksanda Ilincic AW12 (image from catwalking.com)

Here are our favourite white shirt picks, just keep it well away from a suit jacket, unless you work in a law firm...

ASOS £25

Reiss £79

Topshop £32

IT'S TIME TO WEAR SS12 TRENDS!

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

One of the many oddities of working in fashion is that we get two chances to talk about trends. For Spring/Summer 2012, the first chance came in September/ October last year when designers were showing their collections for the forthcoming season, which is NOW. Meaning that the time has come to revisit and properly embrace what we saw seven months ago by actually buying into what we fell in love with on the catwalks - whether it's the designer real deal or the high street's interpretation.

As is the FEAL way, we told you what you'd be buying now as soon as we spotted it on the catwalk but that was a long time ago. We thought that you might like to look back at our first thoughts on SS12 now that we can all get in on the action...

GUIPURE

This trend was so huge we did two posts on it . Unsurprisingly, it's all over the high street. Our favourite is Jaeger Boutique's bright white, ribbon waisted dress. This would see you through all manner of Summer pursuits, just don't go rolling in the grass.

Guipure at Preen SS12 (catwalking.com)

Alicia dress from Jaeger Boutique £220

Navy tee £22 River Island

Louis Vuitton SS12 (catwalking.com)

PRINTS AND PAISLEY

Print is still huge. Florals are a classic but if you want to be exactly on the SS12 pulse then a silky paisley or tropical jungle print are the ones to go for...

Up close with Stella's paisley

Stella McCartney paisley at her SS12 press day 

Stella McCartney paisley print blouse £435 at Matches

Paisley dress £1,590 by Jil Sander at MyTheresa

JUNGLE

Up close: Joseph Altuzarra SS12 at the Harvey Nichols' press day

Palm print dress £65 at Oasis

Jungle clutch £437 at MyTheresa

UNDER THE SEA

This one was never going to be easy to translate - who has time to encrust their spine with pearls each morning or carry about clusters of coral to work a trend? Nods to sea life with watery colours, embellishments and rope details seems like the most sensible way to channel the SS12 mermaid fantasy. Unless you have a fancy dress party coming up, in which case, go all out.

Pearls backstage at Chanel (from http://somethingfrench.tumblr.com/)

Alexander McQueen SS12- coral encrusted mermaids (catwalking.com)

Peter Pilotto printed tee £256 at www.farfetch.com

Rope sandals £95 at Reiss

CROP TOPPING

A quick scout of the shops this weekend threw up plenty of evidence that crop tops are a trend pretty much every high street store has plumped for. We shared 8-minute abs with you at the time but really, who is actually ready for this? If you're not a 15 year old gymnast then maybe proceed with caution e.g a looser crop top worn over a high waist skirt/ short or under a skinny vest.

Dolce and Gabbana SS12 (catwalking.com)

Buttercup crop top £22 at Topshop

Something a little more wearable... £36 at Topshop

SEA AND SUN (YELLOW AND BLUE)

Two of the biggest colours for SS12. I am brightening up today in a Peeps colour jumper. The combination of the two, like wearing your very own seaside horizon, was done most brilliantly by Jonathan Saunders.

Jonathan Saunders SS12 (catwalking.com)

J.W Anderson SS12 (catwalking.com)

Jonathan Saunders sun and sea dress £910 at Matches

Yellow lace dress (two trends in one!) £58 at Warehouse 

UGLY SHOES

Still calling these "Ugly", yes.

Christopher Kane SS12 (catwalking.com)

Christopher Kane sandals £380 at The Corner

The FashEd choose these yellow sandals from Senso in her ASOS sale styling feature...

Senso £125 at ASOS

Biker sandals £515 Givenchy at MyTheresa

3.1 Phillip Lim at My-Theresa £335