DO THE DUNGA: DUNGAREES ARE THE ONE THING TO BUY THIS SUMMER...

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

By "Summer", I am of course referring to the months of May/ June/July/ August when it may or may not be warm and sunny but it damn well should be. Therefore, an ideal thing to buy is an item which will work when temperatures hobble into the 20s but can equally be tweaked for chillier, rainy days. Obviously, said item will also be the kind of thing which drags everything else in your wardrobe into a feeling of "nowness". What could possibly tick all these boxes? The previously humble dungaree, of course.

House of Holland SS13 (via style.com)

Humble I say because dungarees have always been the kind of thing which tend to slot into a less revered side of fashion history. They've never really had a high fashion moment but are the territory of 70s feminists, factory workers, artists, pregnant women and Dexy's Midnight Runners. There is rumour that the reason that dungarees are back on the scene is because of feminism's revival. In The Times this weekend, Janice Turner wrote, "So is this the right moment for Spare Rib to return? After all, dungarees are back in fashion: Keira Knightley, Rihanna and Alexa Chung make them almost look fetching". It's true to say that there's a general vibe of easiness about fashion at the moment- sweatshirts, trainers, tees all feel so much more right than heels and body-con, but whether this is fashion's direct reaction to Everyday Sexism, Vagenda and Caitlin Moran, I'm not so sure. Isn't it just the whole "what goes around, comes around" and because Alexa Chung was obviosuly going to get into them sooner or later, hving lredy done pinafore dresses and playsuits.

On the catwalk, it was the 90s inspired collections whose dungarees shouted loudest. Phillip Lim's SS13 was all about grunge- shirts tied around the waist, cropped tops and a quite awesome pair of pink suede "bib and brace" which are at the top of my most-wanted list. Then there were Henry Holland's acid rave tie-dyed dungarees which could just as easily have been inspired by the madly rainbow bright ones my friends and I used to wear when we were on summer holidays, aged 8.

The very best thing about dungarees is that once you've found the right ones for you, they are super easy to wear and a fashion statement packaged into one neat purchase. I don't need to the bla, bla, bla about good with heels, trainers, crop tops, silky shirts etc, do I?

SOME LOVELY DUNGAREES...

Carven, £530.57

3.1 Phillip Lim at Brown, £1,255

Topshop £55

Uniqlo £39

Warehouse £48

THREE IS A TREND: ALL ABOUT NANNA

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Crunching through the substance and hot air of London Fashion Week post-event is a task almost equal to attempting to do the thing itself. Despite spending half of my time in a car (thanks Mercedes, I worship at your altar) crawling in traffic between Somerset House, Tate Modern and grand avenues behind Pall Mall I did manage see a lot before getting home to put baby Horatio to bed. And then I was able to watch live streams. Ahhh. Loved them. My favourite kitchen table shows were J.W Anderson and Simone Rocha who I will be seeing in person with their clothes this weekend in Paris, and I can't wait. With an uninspiring Milan Fashion Week just wrapped, I am still discovering layers of London Fashion Week that gave me goosebumps.

One recurring theme was that of young designers looking to their grandmothers way of dressing for inspiration.  Henry Holland named his AW13 House of Holland range 'Nana Rave' inspired by a fictional teenager from 1989 who herself gets inspired by her grandmother's wardrobe of funny patterned skirt suits, clunky shoes and tunic dresses; a sort of 60s fashion hangover viewed through the eyes of a bored teen from the 80s. How a guy born in 1983 can channel this fashion vibe in 2013 gives it (intentional) ncomedy value; his is just an idea of a perceived memory and that pretty much sums up modern fashion ideas, even the best ones.

Brazilian NewGen designer Lucas Nascimento (whom Bethan recently interviewed)  is obsessed with old women in general. "I love watching them walk down the street," he told her when she previewed his AW13 show, "what fascinates me is the proportions of the clothes, the way their skirts hit below the knee, how they colour block peculiar colours and generally the way they put their outfits together."

Simone Rocha said this of her collection for Autumn/Winter 2013. "The collection is inspired by my grandmothers: my Irish granny Margaret Gleeson and my Chinese grandmother Cecelia Rocha, my relationship with them and my relationship with clothes. It is a story of respect that is rendered in the fabrication, the consideration and understanding of cut and detail."

Her words made me think of my own Irish nanna, Janie Clynch of Lathaleere, Baltinglass, County Wicklow, a mother of seven and independent woman whose catchphrase was "Don't vex me child" said with a loving smile and a discreet whisht motion with her hands. "Out of my way. Go and play." She was never a fashion plate, but she loved a periwinkle blue cardigan and a sensible skirt, always worn with her St Christopher medal, a discreet crucifix and very often a jazzy hat and well tailored coat.  I can't help seing shades of Simone Rocha's show when I look at Nanna in this photo with my cousin Marita. Miss you Nanna.

Janie Clynch circa 1971

Simone Rocha AW13

Simone Rocha AW13

Lucas Nascimento AW13

Lucas Nascimento AW13

House of Holland  'Nana Rave'

LONDON FASHION WEEK AW13: DO THE "CO-ORD"

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Here's a FEAL version of what I wrote for today LFW paper, The Daily...

Matchy matchy has already been made modern. Recall way back when in Resort 2012, Phoebe Philo did shirts, jackets and joggers all styled together in the same floral print. Since then, the "co-ord", as matching outfits have been christened, has become a key component in the most wearable collections. It's an easy look, the bricks of which can quickly be taken apart to form a whole new outfit. A case in point was Zoe Jordan's Prince of Wales ensemble, or the striped set which Eudon Choi embellished with Swarovski crystals. While they look perfect together for full-on, mega matched impact, the best bit is that you could wear that check tee with a leather pencil skirt or play down the stripe trousers with a plain jumper. You might decry that surely that is what a dress is for. A total, easy-to-put-together look.  Well, yes but separates are far more modern looking and I would bet that a co-ord induces boredom at a far slower rate precisely because you can change it around.  From a designer's perspective, the co-ord is a commercial winner too because it persuades us to buy into two pieces to achieve one look (or if you're into Christopher Raeburn, you'll need the bag and boots too)

At Antipodium, there was the choice of a tweed bomber and wide leg look in either mustard or lilac checks. Creative Director Geoffrey Finch told me, "we were fed up of so much bitsiness, it's nice to have a whole look". Vogue's Emma Elwick-Bates summed up LFW's take on the co-ord, "I feel like it's really relevant in heritage fabrics now, like a modern Katharine Hepburn". We'll match to that.

 A TUMBLE OF LFW CO-ORDS

Lace at Christopher Raeburn

Striped and embellished at Eudon Choi

Checks at Zoe Jordan 

Cocktail print at House of Holland

Simply grey and sporty at Thomas Tait

Graphic print at Holly Fulton

Black and white chains at Whistles

CELEBS DO SS13: IF THE FAIL SAYS NO, WE SAY YES

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It might be one of the world's most visited websites but we all know that the Daily Fail's fashion eye is skewed to say the least. Today has been a particularly bad episode with pronouncements that certain celebs look really awful and, gawd forbid, are commiting the dreaded fashion faux pas. What the DM don't realise is that said celebs are actually working SS13 vibes before the shows are even over.  What's more, just because they don't have a spray tan and a body con dress doesn't mean it's a "faux pas", duh! We're going out on  limb to say these girls are actually looking pretty awesome and fashion forward- get with the programme Daily Fail!

SJP DOES HI-SHINE

DM says: "The actress took her three children to school in Manhattan on Monday sporting a bizarre jacket that looked like it belonged way back in the Eighties"

We say: Errr, have you seen Burberry's latest collection? Full of magpie enticing metallic shininess.

Burberry SS13

CHERYL COLE GOES ZIPPY

DM says: "The 29-year-old singer’s cardigan featured an unusual black buckle that clipped around her neck, with a further buckle over her chest, somewhat reminiscent of a strait jacket"

We say: Actually, if there's one thing you need on your outfit next Summer it's zips. Hardware is getting a good outing, especially on jackets at SS13 shows like Chris Kane, Proenza Schouler.

3.1 Phillip Lim SS13

HEIDI KLUM'S BANG-ON HANGOVER

DM says: "Hangover clothes! Heidi Klum throws on dungarees the day after THAT Emmys gown"

We say: Maybe dungarees have had a bad press as the preserve of pregnant art teachers but they're back for SS13 if Phillip Lim, Margaret Howell and House of Holland are anything to go by.

House of Holland SS13

Images from DailyMail.co.uk and Catwalking.com

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 12th- 16th MARCH

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The Week in Fashion is back from its fashion month break and ready to bring you, our lovely readers their end of week fashion news round-up. Following the marathon of catwalk shows you'd think people of the fashion world might have spent the week collapsed on the sofa in the recovery position, however I'm pleased to say that there's plenty to tell you about...

Samantha Cameron, in Alessandra Rich, and Michelle Obama, in Marchesa, at Wedesnday's State Dinner (image from dailymail.co.uk)

Just in case you hadn't noticed, Dave and Sam Cam dropped into the White House for a few days this week to visit the Obamas. Instead of your average bunch of flowers or bottle of wine, the Brit contingent came bearing gifts of a ping pong table and a Jonathan Saunders scarf. There was a State Dinner attended by politicians, celebrities and other powerful people like Anna Wintour. The US Vogue editor picked a Chanel couture gown which she had already, shock horror, worn once before back in 2009.

Anna Wintour at the Met Gala in 2009. She wore the same dress to
Wednesday night's state dinner (image from www.nymag.com)

Michelle and Samantha naturally did us all proud on the fashion front. Alessandra Rich dressed the PM's wife in a floor-length, high neck blue lace gown from her Spring/ Summer collection. The style reflects the new covered up fashion mood we're feeling for AW12. It has been said that the dress was Sam Cam's own way of bringing a bit of real-life Downton Abbey to Americans who are going crazy for the series. Meanwhile, Mrs Obama went for her tried and tested State Dinner look- knockout dress and chunky necklace. Her outfit was by Marchesa; luckily Georgina Chapman, the woman behind the label, was at the dinner to see her good work in action. During the visit, Sam Cam also wore a few of her favourite London designers including Emilia Wickstead, Burberry and the gorgeous Roksanda Ilincic.

SamCam in Roksanda Ilincic with Michelle O in Zac Posen (image from in style.co.uk)

Huge congratulations to Lucy Yeomans, currently Editor-in-Chief at Harper's Bazaar, who will be moving to Net-a-Porter to head up their editorial offering from September. The move is another indicator of the way retail and editorial are becoming ever more intertwined. DisneyRoller Girl has written about what this means for the fashion industry. Jenny Dickinson, currently at Elle, will become Acting Editor at Harper's Bazaar. We look forward to seeing Net-a-Porter with the Lucy Yeomans touch.

In more moving-about news, Barney's Ney York Vice President and Fashion Director, Amanda Brooks, resigned this week and announced plans to move to the UK. We wonder if we'll be seeing her take up a big job in London sometime soon?

Nicholas Sarkozy awards Franca Sozzani with France's highest honour (image from fashionologie.com)

Congratulations are also in order for Vogue Italia editor, Franca Sozzani who was awarded France's highest honour, the Knight of the Legion of Honour, in Paris this week. Many of the great and good from Italian and French fashion were there, including Raf Simons, Karl Lagerfeld, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, indeed Franca was wearing straight-off-the-catwalk Dolce and Gabbana for the occasion. Franca is the world's most accessible Vogue editor, with over 80,000 Twitter followers and a daily blog on the Vogue Italia site. She posted Conde Nast's Chairman Jonathan Newhouse's speech the day after the ceremony, it's a great read.

Sparks flying: Arizona and Freja for Chloe (image from telegraph.co.uk)

My own personal number one model, Arizona Muse, has this week been announced as the new face of Estee Lauder. The beauty giant's Creative Director, Richard Ferretti, told WWD that "Arizona is warm, engaging and smart. She has an innate graciousness that we believe will translate to whatever advertising we choose to do with her." Apparently, Muse's first Lauder ads will be out "within a year". We can already enjoy Arizona in ads for Fendi, Massimo Dutti and Chloe, in which she appears with Freja Erichsen, her sometime girlfriend. Arizona has said that she is a big fan of Estee Lauder's Re-Nutriv- we're adding that to our shopping list this weekend then.

House of Holland SS12 (from catwalking.com)

If you're planning a spot of shopping this weekend then may we suggest that you head to Harrods where the new House of Holland collection drops today? We've had a sneak peek and love the Miami pastel shades and over blown animal prints. Our favourite piece might just be the pastel panel shirt (above). Harrods have also made the lovely Mr Holland their designer of the month. They've given FEAL this little video in which Henry talks about how he started off working on magazines before moving into design- his big break came when Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon wore his tees to take their bows in 2006. Check out the full interview below and on the Harrods site

Else Schiaparelli, the Surrealist designers whose label Galliano was said to be in talks to
reinvent this week. 

There is still plenty of designer musical chairs action going on. And it's only increased this week with news that Derek Lam is leaving Tod's after six years designing for the classic Italian label. There have also been rumours that John Galliano is set to make a return. Vogue and WWD reported this week that he may have been set to reinvent Schiaparelli, which is now owned by the Tod's group. However, Galliano's spokesman claimed they were 'rumours and nothing more'.

Alexa Chung in Holly Fulton, one of the designers who'll be up for grabs at the British Designers Collective (image from Vogue via catwalkqueen.tv)

If you're a regular reader, then you'll know that we're getting prepped to visit the British Designers Collective at Bicester Village which launches next Wednesday. So, we were very happy to hear this week that one of Britain's best fashion ambassadors, Alexa Chung, is the spokesperson for the initiative. She'll be there on Wednesday and so will FEAL so look out for updates on what Miss Chung loves about the fact we get to buy pieces from the hottest Brit designers at Bicester Village's reduced prices.

Avenue 32 is a new web shopping site which gives each designer their own space- the aim is to make it a personalised experience, more like popping into a designer's own boutique than scrolling through web pages which group many brands together. Just a few of the designers who have areas on the site include Giles, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Preen and Emilio de la Morena. We like!

Now Avenue 32 have created a film 'What are you gonna wear?' which showcases the new designers landing for SS12. To celebrate, they are also offering anyone savvy enough to enter the chance to win a £4,000 Spring/Summer wardrobe. You can find out more details and enter here- what are you waiting for?

Mary and the team in their knicker factory (image from dailymirror.co.uk)

Finally, we hope you were all enjoyed Mary's new show 'Mary's Bottom Line' on Channel 4 last night. It's a three-part series in which Mary dusts off the sewing machines at an old textile factory in Middleton and employs eight young people from the area to launch her Made in Britain "Kinky Knickers". It's pretty emotional but also a really interesting exploration of how the decline in manufacturing has affected whole towns in the UK. And the knickers, I can personally vouch, are lovely. Get them now at Liberty, in-store and online. Our favourites are the pink and peach.